Garden Calendar: A Compilation of Eighteenth-Century Virginia and South Carolina Sources Historical Report Block 7 Building 26

Garden Calendar A Compilation of Eighteenth-Century Virginia and South Carolina Sources

D. Luann Saunders, Introduction by Patricia A. Gibbs

June 1984

Colonial Williamsburg Foundation Library Research Report Series - 0087
Colonial Williamsburg Foundation Library

Williamsburg, Virginia

1990

Garden Calendar: A Compilation of Eighteenth-Century
Virginia and South Carolina Sources
^{[Part 1]}

by
D. Luann Saunders
Introduction
by
Patricia A. Gibbs
Research Department
Colonial Williamsburg Foundation
June 1984

INTRODUCTION

Luann Saunders compiled the garden calendar for use in planning the kitchen garden and in reinterpreting the Powell-Waller House property. Additionally the compilation provides information--including appropriate plant materials, the practice of interplanting, and methods of planting, cultivating, and harvesting crops--directly applicable to other exhibition kitchen gardens at Colonial Williamsburg.

Using tidewater Virginia documentary sources for the 1750s through the 1780s, but concentrating on the period around 1770, I prepared a list of vegetables, fruits, and herbs appropriate for the garden and yards at the Powell-Waller House. [See attached 2 February 1984 memo which includes the list of plant materials and suggests approximate amounts of each to grow.]

This list includes more varieties than can realistically be grown on the Powell-Waller property, but I assumed that some varieties mentioned in the eighteenth-century sources would not be available and that certain vegetables could be rotated within the same plot during one growing season. I also wanted to allow flexibility to selectively vary the annuals from year to year. In making the selections I have assumed that Benjamin Powell's time was primarily devoted to his business interests and that his wife supervised a garden--cultivated by their slave women--that included vegetables, fruits, and herbs (culinary and medicinal) for use by the family and slaves. For this reason I have omitted soma vegetables, fruits, and herbs requiring special attention that avid gardeners in Williamsburg cultivated.

Luann Saunders took direct quotes and paraphrased comments from the following sources on vegetables, fruits, and herbs included on the list:

I. Robert Squibb, The Gardener's Calendar for South Carolina, Georgia, and North Carolina (Athens, Georgia, 1980; originally printed 1787), pp. 1-181.
II. [John Randolph] A Treatise on Gardening by a Citizen of Virginia, edited by Marjorie F. Warner (Richmond, 1924; written about 1765; earliest known edition printed about 1793, but copies probably circulated in manuscript form or the book was published before the Revolution), pp. 1-54.
III. Thomas Jefferson's Garden Book, 1766-1824, with Relevant Extracts from His Other Writings, annotated by Edwin M. Betts (Philadelphia, 1944), pp. 1-147.
IV. Joseph Prentis, Garden Book, March 1784-February 1788 (Original: Alderman Library, University of Virginia; transcript CWF Research Center), pp. 1-6.
V. Joseph Prentis, The Monthly Kalender [written in an account book for the years 1775-1779] (Original: Alderman Library, University of Virginia; transcript CWF Research Center), pp. 1-37.
VI. [Martha Logan] Directions for Managing a Kitchen Garden Every Month of the Year Done by a Lady. Originally printed in Tobler's South Carolina Almanack [1756] and reprinted in Ann Leighton, American Gardens in the Eighteenth Century "For Use or for Delight" (Boston, 1976), pp. 211-215.

She then assembled the quotations and notes into a monthly calendar with references added when the authors described particular methods for planting, cultivating, or harvesting the crops. Photocopies of the notes on methods are attached to this compilation.

A Note about the Sources

John Randolph's Treatise on Gardening, the earliest American book on kitchen gardens, and Joseph Prentis' Monthly Kalendar and Garden Book, are the most pertinent sources, both being the work of Williamsburg residents. Readers should keep in mind that Randolph, who lived at Tazewell Hall from about 1760 until 1775, and Prentis, who lived at Green Hill from 1782 until 1809, were gentlemen gardeners. In several cases their comments are remarkably similar, suggesting a close relationship between them or that Prentis had a copy of Randolph's Treatise.

Thomas Jefferson's Garden Book was read for the period through 1789. As the calendar shows, the difference in altitude between his garden at Monticello and Williamsburg made a slight difference in the planting, cultivating, and harvesting of some, but not all, crops.

The correspondence between London resident Peter Collinson and Williamsburg resident John Custis, printed in Brothers of the Spade, edited by Earl G. Swem (Worcester, 1949), was also examined but contained no information relating to plants on the list.

Calendars by Charleston, South Carolina, residents Martha Logan and Robert Squibb further supplemented the compilation. Milder winters and a longer growing season affected some, but not all plants. Squibb's detailed descriptions about how to plant, cultivate, and harvest vegetables, fruits, and herbs are particularly useful.

Patricia A. Gibbs
Research Associate

2 February 1984

To: Mrs. Mary Ann Brendel and Mr. Richard D. Mahone
From: Ed Chappell, Pat Gibbs, and Carl Lounsbury
Subject: Powell-Waller Gardens and Grounds

On January 24th we visited the property at your request to review which vegetables, fruits, and herbs and the approximate amounts of each which should be planted this year. This list includes the vegetables, fruits, and herbs which a family like the Powell's might have grown in Williamsburg about 1770. Since the list includes more varieties than can be grown in the existing kitchen and herb gardens, we recommend the following changes be made this growing season:

1. Remove all of the pomegranates east of the kitchen garden.
2. Remove the suburban shrub next to the dairy at the northwest corner of the herb garden.
3. Enlarge the kitchen garden and herb garden to the brick walks [The brick walks should ultimately be replaced with marl.] and within a few feet of the existing north, south, and west fence lines.
4. Remove the fence between the kitchen garden and the sheep paddock.
5. Plant the sheep paddock with Indian corn, melons (cantaloupes and watermelons), white and sweet potatoes, and pumpkins. Indian corn, planted in hills, could fill about half of this area.
6. Replace the green grass border sticks presently used in the herb harden.
7.Establish asparagus, rhubarb, and strawberry beds.
8. Plant black berries and raspberries (framed as at Wetherburn's), cherries, and grapes.

9.9. Plant these vegetables in these approximate amounts:

	1 or more rows	about ½ row	about ¼ row
artichokes		X
asparagus (separate bed)
beans: French, kidney, lima, windsor	X
beets		X
broccoli: green, purple, red, white	X
cabbage: green, red, yellow, ^savoy	X
carrots	X
cauliflower		X
celery		X
colewort	X
corn, Indian	X
2
cucumbers: early, green & white Turkey		X
lettuce: Selecia, white case		X
kale	X
leeks		X
lettuce: Selecia, white case		X
mustard, white		X
onions	X
parsnips	X
peas: early, middle, late	X
peppers, red [capsicum]			X
potatoes: sweet, white	X
pumpkins	X
radishes			X
salsify		X
spinach	X
squash: summer (cymnals), winter		X
tomatoes (medium size)			X
turnips: early, hearty winter	X

10.10 Plan these fruits or keep the existing fruit, shrubs, and trees:

apples figs

blackberries grapes raspberries

cherries melons: cantaloupes, watermelons rhubarb

peaches strawberries

The amounts of the fruits which need to be planted are difficult to quantify but should take into account a reasonable amount for the Powell family of four and their guests to have eaten and the available space on the property where these fruits will grow best.

11. Plant small amounts of these herbs or keep the existing herbs:

camomile	garlic	marjoram	spearmint
chives	horehound	nasturtium	tansy
clary sage	horseradish	parsley	tarragon
cress	hyssop	rosemary	thyme
elecampane	lavender	rue	wormwood
fennel	lemon balm	sage
feverfew	marigold	summer savory

After this year the herbs should not be separated from the vegetables but the plantings should be intermixed.

12. Do not repaint the privies.
13. When necessary, whitewash rather than repaint the stables.
14. Move the small house in the fattening pen, which is actually a milk house or portable dairy, to the Wythe House.

If some of these recommendations cannot be practically implemented this year, we recommend they be considered in the overall changes planned for the grounds. If the sheep paddock is not planted this year, omit the vegetables noted to be grown there from 1984 plantings at the property.

In recommending that the sheep paddock be planted with field crops, we realize this runs counter to plans under consideration which call for this area being used to show Mr. Powell's work with a shed, stack of drying lumber and other building supplies, and possibly having an apprentice and journeyman carpenter actually working on the site. Instead, we recommend these activities be shifted to what we consider the under-utilized stable area at the northeast corner of the property. We also recommend that, pending archaeology, the fence on the north side of the property be moved south to the original lot line. The reconstructed stable is located in the northeast corner of Powell's property.

We also recommend that the vegetables, fruits, and herbs be better used and that whatever isn't needed for cooking at the Powell-Waller Kitchen be offered to the Domestic Crafts food program.

Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions about our recommendations or their implementation.

P.G.
E. C., P. G., C. L.

Garden Calendar: A Compilation of Eighteenth-Century
Virginia and South Carolina Sources
Compiled by D. Luann Saunders

JANUARY

VEGETABLES

Artichokes

Dress as soon as possible if not already done (I, p. 13) [Method: I, pp. 150-151].

If not done in November or December then take away all dead leaves and earth the artichokes or cover them with straw (V, pp. 14-15).

"Transplant Artichokes into very rich mellow Ground and they will bear in the Fall" (VI, p. 211).

Asparagus

Dress as soon as possible if not already done (I, p. 13) [Method: 1, pp. 152-153].

Beans

Plant mazagon, long podded, and windsor beans (I, pp. 3-4) [Method: I, pp. 3-4].

19 Jan. 1787 "Planted three rows of large Hotspur Beans in Est Garden" (IV, p. 5).

"If the Weather is open, sow … Hotspur Beans or the long podded Bean" (V, p. 1) [Method: V, p. 16].

Plant beans and peas (VI, p. 211).

Beets

About the end of the month, sow red beets for their roots and green and white beets for their leaves. Do not plant them together but sow them separately (I, p. 7) [Method: I, p. 7].

Broccoli

Hoe it often and remove all decayed leaves as they drop off (I, p. 6)

Cabbages

Sow early York, sugar-loaf and drum-head cabbage seeds for summer use (I, pp. 5-6) [Method: I, pp. 5-6]. Cabbages sown in October and November should be transplanted soon if not done in December (I, pp. 5-6) [Method: I, pp. 167-168].

Jan. 1787 "Sowed Cabbage Seed on North Border--in E. Garden" (IV, p. 5).

"Sow Cabbage for Summer Use, when they are fit transplant them into rich Earth" (VI, p. 211).

Carrots

Prepare the ground for a few early carrots (I, pp. 7-8) [Method: I, pp. 7-8]. You may plant a few radishes with the carrots (I, pp. 7-8).

Cauliflowers

"Let every care be taken to protect your cauliflowers from frost-This may be done by binding moss or hay bands round the stems, and about one third of the leaves, and tying the leaves together near the tops" (I, p. 6). Cauliflowers planted in October may be transplanted about the middle of the month (I, p. 6) [Method: I, p. 6].

Celery

Break up dirt and put it lightly around the plants to protect them from frost. Also, cover the rows with long litter, straw, etc. (I, p. 10) [Method: I, p. 10].

Cucumbers

"Prepare hot-beds for Cucumbers: as little can be done this month in a garden, I would advise the preparing of your dung, and carrying it to your beds, that it may be ready to spread on in February" (II, p. 49) [Method: II, pp. 16-18].

Lettuce

Transplant lettuces (I, p. 9) [Method: I, pp. 9-10]. Cabbage, Silesia, and Dutch brown lettuce may be sown at any time. Pick off any dead and decayed leaves and keep them clear of weeds. Also, stir the surface of the earth between the plants occasionally (I, pp., 9-10).

Onions

Hoe them often and keep the dirt loose around them (I, p. 8).

Peas

Sow early hotspur, Charleton, and marrowfat peas. Draw some soil 3 up around their stems when they are up to protect them from the wind and frost (I, pp. 4-5) [Method: I, pp. 4-5].

"Sowed Peas on the Border of the North Paling on the 17th day of Jany. all rotted" (IV, p. 5).

"If the Weather is open, sow Almans Hotspur Pease…" (V, p. 1) [Method: V, p. 35].

Plant beans and peas (VI, p. 211).

Radishes

Sow some short top radishes for an early crop. Towards the end of the month sow some short top radishes and some salmon radishes, but do not mix the two together. You may sow carrots, lettuce, or round spinach with them (I, pp. 11-12) [Method: I, pp. 11-12].

Plant radishes every two weeks from now until the beginning of April. If you have little space, plant carrots and spinach with the radishes (II, p. 42) [Method: II, p. 42].

Spinach

About the middle or latter part of the month sow a little spinach which will come in early in the spring (I, p. 8) [Method:. I, p. 8].

"Sow Spinage for Use and for Seed: that which is preserved for Seed must never be cut: a small Quantity will yield plentifully in rich ground" (VI, p. 211).

Turnips

Towards the end of the month, sow some dutch turnips. They should come in about the beginning of April (I, p. 6).

HERBS

Garlick & Shalots

Plant some now if you have not done so (I, p. 11) [Method: I, p. 147].

Horseradish

Sow horseradish (I, p. 13) [Method: I, pp. 13-16]. It will come up the first or middle of April. You may plant spinach or radishes with it. Keep it weeded for 4 to 6 weeks after which time the leaves will cover the ground and prevent the growth of weeds (I, pp. 13-16).

Parsley

Sow some parsley seed the last half of the month (I, pp. 8-9) [Method: I, pp. 8-9].

You may sow parsley towards the end of the month until April (V, p. 29) [Method: V, p. 29].

Plant parsley (VI, p. 211).

FRUITS

Apple, Pear, Plum, & Cherry Trees

Prune these trees if not done in December (I, pp. 20-21) [Method: I, p. 175].

Peach, Nectarine, & Apricot Trees

They may be pruned at any time (I, p. 16) [Method: I, pp. 16-20].

Raspberries

Prune raspberries (I, p. 21) [Method: I, p. 22]. Plant raspberries (I, p. 22) [Method: I, p. 22].

"In frosty Weather break the dead Wood, from your Raspberry Bushes and get in Dung" (V, p. 1).

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

Transplant any fruit trees this month

Support the newly planted trees with stakes as soon as they are planted so that they do not get knocked about by the wind which will prevent them from taking root (I, p. 20) [Method: I, pp. 179-180].

"This month all kinds of Fruit-Trees may be Transplanted" (VI, p. 211).

Prune vines

Prune vines if not done in the two previous months (I, pp. 20-21) [Method: I, pp. 176-179].

FEBRUARY

VEGETABLES

Artichokes

Give your artichokes a dressing during the first half of the month. Any of the shoots that are taken off can be used to start a new bed of artichokes at this time. Those planted now will bear in June. You may sow some drum head cabbage between your new or old artichokes or you may plant radishes, spinach or lettuce with them. Towards the end of the month, you may sow artichoke seeds, too (I, pp. 40-42) [Method: I, pp. 40-42].

Note: Randolph gives no time for planting but gives a method for planting artichokes (II, p. 1).

Asparagus

At the beginning of the month dress old asparagus beds. When doing this, plant some radish, spinach, or lettuce seeds with the asparagus (I, pp. 30-31) [Method: I, pp. 30-31]. This month is a good time to make new beds of asparagus with the roots of the old plants. Before you rake the beds, you may sow some onions with the asparagus. At the end of the month or the beginning of March the plants will come up, and they should be weeded through the summer. You may sow asparagus seed during the first half of the month, and if the weather is dry, water them (I, pp. 36-40) [Method: I, pp. 36-40].

Plant asparagus and "fork up the old" beds (II, p. 49) [Method: II, pp. 3-4].

Plant asparagus "to be transplanted in shady Places: they must be moved young and watered every Morning: Pond or Rain Water is the best" (VI, p. 212).

Beans

Plant beans of any kind (I, p. 23).

Sow beans (II, p. 50).

15 Feb. 1788 "Planted Mazagan Beans 7 first rows in first Square in E. Garden" (IV, p. 6).

Sow Windsor Beans at the beginning of the month (V, p. 2) [Method: V, p. 16].

Plant kidney beans "to be transplanted in shady Places: they must be moved young and watered every Morning: Pond or Rain Water is best" (VI, p. 212)

Cabbages

The beginning of the month plant early York and sugar-loaf cabbages (I, pp. 24-25) [Method: I, pp. 24-25]. Transplant cabbages if not done in January (I, p. 25) [Method: I, p. 25].

Plant loaf cabbages (II, p. 49).

19 Feb. 1787 "Sowed Lettuce & Cabbage from E. [Eastern] Shore on Border of White Pales in E. Garden" (IV, p. 5).

"In the Decrease of the Moon," plant cabbages, and mid-month transplant cabbages (V, p. 2).

Plant out cabbages "for Seed the next Year" (VI, p. 212).

Carrots & Parsnips

Sow carrots and parsnips at the first of the month. The carrots will be ready to use in May, June, July, and August. Sow some radish seed with the carrots or parsnips (I, pp. 29-30) [Method: I, pp. 29-30].

Sow carrots for a summer crop (II, p. 12) [Method: II, p. 12].

Transplant some carrots for seed (II, p. 49).

Sow parsnips. You may sow some carrots with them (II, p. 37) [Method: II, p. 37].

28 Feb. 1778 Sowed carrots (III, p, 75).

Plant carrots and parsnips (VI, p. 212). Plant out parsnips and carrots "for Seed the next Year" (VI, p. 212).

Cauliflowers

Those planted in October should be transplanted if not done before now (I, p. 26) [Method: I, p. 26].

Transplant cauliflowers at the end of the month (II, p. 10).

About mid-month, plant cauliflower seed (V, p. 19) [Method: V, p. 19].

Celery

"In the Decrease of the Moon," plant celery (V, p.2).

Plant celery "to be transplanted in shady Places: they must be moved young and watered every Morning: Pond or Rain Water is the best" (VI, p. 212).

Colewort (Collards)

Sow coleworts in "the Decrease of the Moon" (V, p. 2).

Cucumbers

Plant cucumbers "to be transplanted in shady Places: they must be moved young and watered every Morning: Pond or Rain Water is the best" (VI, p. 212).

Irish Potatoes

Plant them at any time (I, pp. 42-43) [Method: I, pp. 42-43].

Lettuce

Sow lettuce at the beginning, middle, and end of the month (I, p. 26) [Method: I, p. 26]. Transplant lettuces that are too close together (I, p. 26) [Method: I, pp. 9-10].

Sow cabbage lettuce 10 inches apart (II, pp. 27-28). Sow Silesia lettuce 18 inches to 2 feet apart (II, p. 28).

19 Feb. 1787 "Sowed Lettuce & Cabbage from E. [Eastern] Shore on Border of White Pales in E. Garden" (IV, p. 5).

On the day of the full moon, plant onions and mix in some lettuce and radishes with them (V, p. 2). Lettuce may be planted from February to August (V, p. 37).

Plant lettuce "to be transplanted in shady Places: they must be moved young and watered every Morning: Pond or Rain Water is the best" (VI, p. 212). Plant lettuce about mid-month for the last time (VI, p. 212).

Onions & Leeks

Sow onions and leeks for a general crop (I, p. 28) [Method: I, p. 28] Transplanted onions and leeks should be hoed often (I, p. 28).

Sow onions (II, p. 35) [Method: II, pp.. 35-36].

On the day of the full moon, plant onions and mix in some lettuce and radishes with them (V, p. 2) [Method: V, p. 28].

Plant onions (VI, p. 212).

Peas

Plant marrowfat, sugar, rounceval, and other kinds of peas once every two or three weeks to have a constant supply (I, p.. 24)… Draw some soil around the stems of peas and beans which have come up (I, p. 24).

Peas sown in October should be transplanted into hot beds (II, p. 38) [Method: II, p. 38]. Sow peas (II, p. 50) [Method: II, pp. 38-40].

20 Feb. 1767 Sowed forwardest and middling peas (III, p. 4). 24 Feb. 1768 Sowed early peas after soaking them (III, p. 12). 25 Feb. 1775 Sowed early and marrowfat peas (III, p. 66). 26 Feb. 1778 Sowed Hotspur peas (III, p. 75).

23 Feb. 1787 "Sowed Peas on the North Border--in the place where they were put the 17th Jany--these are of the Six Week" (IV, p. 5). 13 Feb. 1788 "Sowed Peas on the Border of the E. Garden under the North paling in double rows" (IV, p. 6).

Sow "Ormans Master Hotspur, Charltons Hotspur, and Marrow fat Peas" at the beginning of the month (V, p. 2) [Method: V, p. 35].

Plant Dwarf and Hotspur peas (VI, p. 212).

Radishes

Sow salmon, short top, and turnip radishes at the beginning, middle, and end of the month. Use the same method as last month. Thin the crops of early radishes as soon as they are the size of a goose quill. Keep them free from weeds and water frequently if the weather is dry (I, p. 29).

Sow radishes twice (II, p. 42) [Method: II, pp. 41-43].

On the day of the full moon, plant onions and mix in some lettuce and radishes with them (V, p. 2).

Plant radishes "to be transplanted in shady Places: they must be moved young and watered every Morning: Pond or Rain Water is the best" (VI, p. 212). Plant radishes about mid-month for the last time (VI, p. 212).

Salsify

28 Feb. 1778 Sowed salsify (III, p. 75).

Sow salsify at the end of the month (V, p. 34) [Method: V, p. 34].

Spinach

Sow the round leaved or smooth seeded spinach every 2 or 3 weeks for a constant supply. It may be sown alone or between rows of windsor beans, or between cabbages, or with radishes. Hoe or hand weed early crops of spring spinach. Also thin them to 5 or 6 inches distance. Winter spinach (sown last autumn) should be weeded and hoed. When gathering for use, thin out those that are too close. If they are not too close then gather the larger outward leaves as needed (I, pp. 27-28).

"In the Decrease of the Moon," plant spinach (V, p. 2). Sow it every 2 weeks until the middle or end of April (V, p. 32) [Method: V, p. 32].

Plant spinach "to be transplanted in shady Places: they must be moved young and watered every Morning: Pond or Rain Water is the best" (VI, p. 212). Plant spinach about mid-month for the last time (VI, p. 212).

Turnips

In the beginning of the month plant early Dutch turnips (I, pp. 43-44) [Method: I, pp. 43-44].

Transplant turnips to use for seed. They should be 3 feet apart from each other both between rows and in the rows (II, p. 49).

SMALL SALADING ("cresses, mustard, radish, rape, &c.")

Plant every 10 or 12 days "on a warm border" (I, p. 31) [Method: I, p. 31].

"In the Decrease of the Moon," plant garden cresses (V, p. 2).

"In the Decrease of the Moon," plant white mustard (V, p. 2).

HERBS

Horseradish

Plant horseradish (II, p. 25) [Method: II, pp. 25-26].

Mint

At this time mint should be propagated "by slips or parting the "roots" (I, p. 35) [Method: I, p. 35].

Parsley

Sow parsley if not done last month (I, p. 32) [Method: I, p. 32].

"In the Decrease of the Moon," plant parsley (V, p. 2).

Plant parsley "to be transplanted in shady Places: they must be moved young and watered every Morning: Pond or Rain Water is the best" (VI, p. 212).

Plant parsley about mid-month for the last time (VI, p. 212).

Pot and Medicinal Herbs

You can sow "dill, fennel, borage, burnet, bugloss, sorrel, marigold, orach, and clarey" seeds at any time. "Plant slips of balm, burnet, tarragow, tansey, penny-royal, feverfew, and chamomile … Sow hysop, thyme, savory, and sweet marjoram, rather at the beginning …" Sage can be planted at any time (I, pp. 32-34) [Method: I, pp. 32-34].

Plant "all kinds of aromatic Herbs" (VI, p. 212).

Rosemary, Rue, &c.

"Plant slips of rosemary, rue, wormwood, and lavender" six inches apart (I, pp. 34-35) [Method: I, pp. 34-35].

FRUITS

Fig Trees

Prune your fig trees about mid-month (I, p. 50) [Method: I, pp. 50-51].

Melons

Plant melons in hot beds in the last half of the month (II, p. 31) [Method: II, pp. 32-33].

Plant melons "to be transplanted in shady Places: they must be moved young and watered every Morning: Pond or Rain Water is the best" (VI, p. 212).

Peaches, Nectarines, & Apricots

These trees should be pruned as soon as possible if you have not already done so (I, p. 46) [Method: I, pp. 16-20]. Also, head down your young trees (I, p. 51) [Method: I, pp. 51-52].

Plum & Cherry Trees

If you have not already done so, prune your plum and cherry trees (I, p. 44) [Method: I, pp. 44-46]. Also, head down your young trees (I, p. 51) [Method: I, pp. 51-52].

Raspberries

Prune, dress, and plant raspberries if you did not do it in January (I, p. 47) [Method: I, p.. 22].

If not done before now, they should be pruned (V, p. 31) [Method: V, p. 31]. You may make new beds if needed (V, p. 31).

Strawberries

Should now clean the strawberry beds and give them their spring dressing (I, pp. 47-48) [Method: I, pp. 47-48]. You may plant strawberries until mid-month but these will not yield fruit until next year (I, pp. 47-48) [Method: I, pp. 47-48].

Sow strawberries (II, p. 50) [Method: II, pp. 45-46]. You may transplant strawberries but September is the best time to do so (II, p. 45).

Clean and dress your strawberries (V, p. 30) [Method: V, p. 30].

Plant strawberries (VI, p. 212).

MARCH

VEGETABLES

Artichokes

Your artichoke beds should be dressed. You may plant more. If you sow them in the beginning of the month, they may be ready for the summer (I, p. 63) [Method: I, p. 63].

"Slip your Artichokes" (II, p. 50) [Method: II, p. 1].

Plant artichokes this month (V, p. 3). During the first half of the month, give your artichokes a dressing (V, p. 14) [Method: V, p. 14].

Asparagus

Fork and rake smooth your asparagus beds at the very beginning of the month. You may plant more if done by mid-month (I, pp. 62-63).

15 March 1767 "planted asparagus seed in 5. beds of 4. f. width. 4. rows in each" (III, p. 4). 29 March 1771 Sowed asparagus seed (III, p. 22). 29 March 1774 Sowed asparagus (III, p. 50).

Plant out asparagus already started from seed (V, p. 3) [Method: V, p. 3].

Beans

The long podded bean, the windsor and sandwich beans may be planted again to keep a supply coming in (I, pp. 53-54) [Method: I, pp. 53-54]. Snap or Bush Beans: Plant the small negro or white and yellow dwarfs at the end of this month. Plant them in rows 2 feet apart and let the plants be 3 inches apart in the rows (I, p. 55).

Sow kidney beans (II, p. 6) [Method: II, p. 6].

23 March 1774 Sowed windsor beans and green beans (III, p. 48). 29 March 1774 Sowed beans (III, p. 50). 14 March 1778 Planted "Mazzei's beans" and snap beans (III, p. 77).

19 March 1784 Sowed beans (IV, p. 1).

Plant all types of beans this month (V, p. 3) [Method: V, p. 16].

Plant kidney beans (VI, p. 212).

Beets (Red)

Thin out the plants and loosen the soil around those planted last month. Never transplant red beets (I, p. 61).

Salsify

Sow salsify this month or next. The rows should be a foot apart and the plants six inches from each other in the rows. "Take them up when the leaves decay"(II, p. 46) .

15 March 1774 Sowed salsify (III, p. 47).

You may sow salsify this month (V, p. 34) [Method: V, p. 34].

Spinach

Sow spinach at any time. If you need a continuous supply then sow it every 3 weeks. Spinach sown last month should be hoed and thinned to 3 or 4 inches apart (I, p. 62).

Sow spinach (II, p. 44) [Method: II, p. 44].

23 March 1774 Sowed spinach (III, p. 48).

Squashes & Pumpkins

Sow these about mid-month (I, p. 61). Plant them the same way you plant cucumbers [Method: I, pp. 78-79].

Tomatoes

Sow tomatoes in the middle or end of the month (I, pp. 59-60) [Method: I, pp. 59-60].

Turnips

If not planted last month then do it now (I, p. 56) [Method: I, pp. 43-44]. Those planted last month should be thinned and hoed (I, p. 56) [Method: I, p. 130].

Sow turnips (II, p. 50) [Method: II, pp. 47-49].

SMALL SALADING ("cresses, mustard, radish, rape, &c.")

Plant every 2 weeks (I, p. 59) [Method: I, p. 59].

26 March 1774 Sowed cresses (III, p. 49).

23 March 1784 Sowed cresses (IV, p. 1).

HERBS

Camomile

Plant camomile (II, p. 21) [Method: II, p. 21; V, p. 23].

Chives

Note: Randolph does not give a time for planting chives, so I assume it would be March since he begins most of his planting then. Chives are " …propagated by parting the roots or planting the cloves" (II, pp. 36-37).

Elecampane

Note: Randolph does not tell when to plant this, but I am assuming March since he plants most herbs in March [Method: II, pp. 22-23].

Featherfew

Sow featherfew (II, p. 24) [Method: II, p. 24].

Plant featherfew this month (V, p. 3).

Fennel

Plant fennel (II, p. 50) [Method: II, p. 24].

Garlic

15 March 1774 Sowed garlic (III, p. 47).

Hyssop

Plant hyssop from seed (II, p. 26) [Method: II, pp. 26-27].

Plant hyssop this month (V, p. 3).

Lavender

Plant lavender from slips or cuttings (II, p. 27) [Method: II, p. 27].

Plant lavender (V, p. 3).

Marjoram

Sow marjoram (II, p. 50) [Method: II, p. 30].

Plant marjoram this month (V, p. 3).

Mint

This month or next you may propagate mint "by the cuttings of the young stalks" (I, p. 35).

Plant mint (II, p. 50) [Method: II, p. 30].

Plant mint (V, p. 3).

Nasturtium

Plant nasturtium [Indian Cress] (II, p. 22) [Method: II, p. 22].

26 March 1774 Sowed nasturtium (III, p. 49).

Parsley

If not sown in February, then sow it at the beginning of this month (I, p. 59).

Sow parsley (II, p. 50) [Method: II, pp. 13-15].

31 March 1774 Planted "a bed of parsley" (III, p. 51). 14 March 1778 Planted parsley (III, p. 77).

29 March 1784 Planted parsley (IV, p. 1).

Rosemary

Plant rosemary (II, p. 50) [Method: II, pp. 43-44].

Plant rosemary this month (V, p. 3).

Rue

Plant rue (II, p. 50). It should be propagated the same as rosemary (II, p. 44). Plant rue this month (V, p. 3).

Sage

Plant sage this month (V, p. 3).

Tansy

Plant tansy (II, p. 50) [Method: II, p. 46-47].

Plant tansy (V, p. 3).

Thyme

If planting seeds, plant thyme this month. If planting by separating the roots then plant it at the end of the month. Plant them six inches apart (II, p. 47).

Plant thyme this month (V, p. 3).

Wormwood

Plant wormwood this month (V, p. 3).

FRUITS

Apples

14 March 1769 planted "2. [rows] of New York apples ingrafted" (III, p. 15).

31 March 1774 Planted "twenty four apple trees" (III, p. 50).

9-14 March 1778 Planted apple trees and seeds (III, pp. 75-76).

Cherries

14 March 1769 Planted " …2. rows of cherries intended for stocks to inoculation" (III, p. 15).

31 March 1774 Planted "nineteen cherry trees" (III, p. 50).

31 March 1774 Planted 4 ("Ciriege corniole") Italian cherry trees and 198 different kinds from Italy (III, p. 50).

9-14 March 1778 Planted cherry trees (III, pp. 75-76).

Fig Trees

If not done last month, plant them at the first of this month (I, p. 64) [Method: I, p. 64].

14 March 1769 Planted 2 rows of figs (III, p. 15).

Grapes

28 March 1771 "planted 5. grapes …" (III, p. 22).

Peaches

14 March 1769 Planted "1. [row] of Peach stocks for inoculating almonds" and another row for inoculating apricots (III, p. 15).

29 March 1774 "Peach trees at Monticello in general bloom" (III, p. 50).

10 March 1775 "the peach trees at Monticello in blossom" (III, p. 66).

14 March 1778 Planted peach stones. Peach trees starting to bloom (III, p. 76).

17 March 1782 Peaches in bloom (III, p. 94).

Raspberries

Plant raspberries (II, p. 50) [Method: II, p. 43].

31 March 1774 Planted 3 rows of raspberry seeds (III, p. 51).

14 March 1778 "Planted out Raspberries …" (III, p. 76).

19 March 1784 Transplanted raspberries (IV, p. 1).

Sow "Slips of Raspberries" this month (V, p. 3). You may prune or transplant raspberries this month (V, p. 31) [Method: V, p. 31].

Strawberries

Dress your strawberry beds if not done last month (I, pp. 65-66) [Method: I, pp. 65-66].

You may plant strawberries at this time (I, pp. 65-66) [Method: I, p. 153].

31 March 1774 Planted 3 rows of Alpine strawberry seeds, 3 rows of May strawberry seeds, and one row of large garden strawberry seeds (III, p. 51).

12 March 1777 "planted 2 beds of strawberries" (III, p. 71).

13 March 1777 Planted 1 bed of strawberries (III, p. 71).

Water and Musk Melons

Sow these about mid-month (I, p. 60) [Method: I, p. 60].

Sow melons (II, p. 31) [Method: II, pp. 32-33].

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

Fruit Trees

If they have not been pruned, then do so within the first week of this month at the latest (I, pp. 64-65). If you have not planted fruit trees, do it as soon as possible (I, p. 65).

In general

"Whatever was neglected last Month, may be done in this, with good Success, if it is not too dry; if it be, you must water more frequently" (VI, p. 212).

APRIL

VEGETABLES

Artichokes

If not done last month, slip your artichokes (II, p. 50) [Method: II, p. 1]. In the spring, dung them with sheep dung and ashes (II, p. 1).

"… Spade up your artichoak Bed, and Slip the Plants; leaving two of the Strongest in a Hill …" (V, p. 4).

Asparagus

Weed the plants using a small hoe. You may gather some for use (I, p. 75) [Method: I, p. 75].

25 April 1767 Asparagus sown in March is "3. inches high, and branched" (III, p. 5).

Beans

Plant windsor and long podded during the first of the month for a last crop. Those beans that are up should be hoed and the soil should be drawn around their stems. If any are in blossom, they should be topped (I, pp. 67-68) [Method: I, pp. 67-68]. Snap or Bush Beans: Sow white, black, yellow, black speckled, red speckled, large white or the cream colored dwarfs (I, pp. 70-71) [Method: I, pp. 70-71].

Sow sugar beans (II, p. 6) [Method: II, p. 6].

1 April 1774 Sowed 6 kinds of beans (III, p. 51). 5 April 1774 Sowed white and purple beans and sugar beans (III, p. 52). 19 April 1777 Sowed lima beans (III, p. 71).

Sow French beans (V, p. 4). [Method: V, p. 16].

Beets

Those planted in February should be hoed and thinned to a foot apart (I, pp. 79-80).

30 April 1774 Planted white and red beets (III, p. 54).

Cabbages

Sow early York, sugar loaf, battersea, and drumhead cabbages [Method: I, p. 69]. Those cabbages sown in February should be hoed often and should have soil drawn up around the stems. In the last half of the month, plant savoys and large late cabbages for a fall crop (I, p. 69) [Method: I, p. 69].

Sow the common white cabbage (II, p. 7) [Method: II, p. 7].

2 April 1786 Planted savoy cabbages (IV, p. 3).

Plant cabbage seed (V, p. 4).

Transplant cabbages (V, p. 4).

Carrots & Parsnips

Weed and thin those that have been planted (I, pp. 71-72) [Method: I, pp. 71-72].

At the end of the month, sow your winter crop of carrots and parsnips (I, p. 72) [Method: I, pp. 72-73].

Sow carrots for a crop in the fall (II, p. 12) [Method: II, p. 12].

Sow carrots (V, p. 18) [Method: V, p. 18].

Cauliflowers & Broccoli

Plant some now using the same method as for cabbages (I, pp. 69-70) [Method: I, p. 69].

Sow cauliflowers on the 12th (II, p. 10) [Method: II, p. 11].

2 April 1786 Planted cauliflowers (IV, p. 3).

Plant cauliflower seed in the beginning of the month (V, p. 4).

Transplant cauliflowers sown in February (V, p. 19) [Method: V, p. 19].

Plant cauliflowers on the 12th (V, p. 36) [Method: V, p. 36].

Celery

Sow celery (I, p. 78) [Method: I, p. 78].

Sow celery at the beginning of the month (II, p. 14).

9 April 1767 "sowed 3. rows of Celery …" (III, p. 5).

2 April 1786 Planted celery seed (IV, p. 3).

Plant celery seed in the beginning of the month (V, p. 4).

Cucumbers

Sow cucumbers during the first of the month (I, p. 78) [Method: I, pp. 78-79].

If not done last month, then sow cucumbers (II, p. 19) [Method: II, p. 19].

1 April 1774 Planted cucumbers (III, p. 51).

5 April 1774 Planted cucumbers (III, p. 52). 19 April 1777 Sowed cucumbers (III, p. 71).

Irish Potatoes

Hoe them often and draw dirt up around the stems (I, pp. 75-76).

19 April 1777 Planted Irish potatoes (III, p. 71).

Lettuces

Transplant those sown in March (I, p. 76) [Method: I, pp. 76-77]. Plant Silesia, cabbage, or brown Dutch lettuce twice (I, p. 76) [Method: I, pp. 76-77].

Sow cabbage lettuce leaving 10 inches between them (II, pp. 27-28).

9 April 1767 Sowed 2 rows of lettuce (III, p. 5). 9 April 1777 Sowed lettuce (III, p. 71).

Plant lettuce seed in the beginning of the month (V, p. 4).

"Lettice, Spinage and all kinds of Salading may be planted to use all the Summer but they must be frequently watered and shaded from the Sun" (VI, p. 212).

Onions & Leeks

Those transplanted in the fall will now have seed heads which should be pulled off. Those planted February should be hoed and thinned to 8 inches apart. Towards the end of the month, sow leeks for a winter crop (I, p. 74).

1 April [1784] " … Set out Garlick & Onions" (IV, p. 2).

Peas

Sow marrowfat, green and white rouncevil, or hotspur peas for a last crop during the first of the month. Put soil around the stems of those that are up and weed them. "Stick such-peas as are advanced to the height of five inches; let it not be delayed too long, for if they are once beat down by the winds and rain, it will be troublesome to stick them at all, and they will not readily rise again. Let hotspurs have sticks about three feet and a half, or four feet high; and larger sorts sticks of about six feet"(I, p. 68) .

Sow peas (II, p. 50) [Method: II, pp. 38-40].

1 April 1767 Peas sown March 17 just coming up (III, p. 4).

24 April 1767 Peas sown Feb. 20 ready to eat (III, p. 5).

1 April 1773 Peas sown (early & marrowfats) are up (III, p. 40).

3 April 1773 Sowed early peas and marrowfats (III, p. 40).

4 April 1774 Peas sown March 24 are up (III, p. 52).

6 April 1774 Sowed hotspur and marrowfat peas (III, p. 52).

25 April 1774 "sowed 4. rows of forward peas" (III, p. 54) .

1 April 1777 Sowed peas (III, p. 71).

7 April 1777 Sowed peas (III, p. 71).

8 April 1777 Peas sown March 26 are up (III, p. 71).

14 April 1777 Sowed peas (III, p. 71).

1 April [1784] Planted marrowfat peas and flowering peas (IV, p. 2).

In the beginning of the month, plant peas for a last crop (V, p. 4) [Method: V, p. 35].

Radishes

Sow salmon, short top, or turnip radishes 2 or 3 times this month. If the weather is dry, water them (I, p. 76) [Method: I, p. 76].

Sow radishes twice (II, p. 42) [Method: II, pp. 41-43].

9 April 1767 Sowed 2 rows of radishes (III, p. 5).

30 April 1774 Sowed scarlet radishes (III, p. 55).

9 April 1777 Planted radishes (III, p. 71).

Plant radish seed (V, p. 4).

Red Pepper (Capsicum)

Sow Red pepper & gather it for pickles "before the pods grow hard"(II, p. 41) .

5 April 1774 Sewed Cayenne pepper (III, p. 52).

Salsify

If not done last month, sow salsify early in this month (II, p. 46).

Plant salsify in the beginning of the month (V, p. 4).

Spinach

"Lettice, Spinage and all kinds of Salading may be planted to use all the Summer but they must be frequently watered and shaded from the Sun"(VI, p. 212) .

Squashes & Pumpkins

Sow these during the first of the month using the same method as for sowing cucumbers (I, p. 79) [Method: I, pp. 78-79].

8 April 1774 Planted pumpkins (white and black) (III, p. 54).

Turnips

Weed, hoe, and thin them to 8 or 9 inches apart (I, pp. 74-75).

Sow turnips (II, p. 50) [Method: II, pp. 47-49].

1 April 1774 Sowed turnips (III, p. 51).

SMALL SALADING ("cresses, mustard, radish, rape, &c.")

Plant once a week for a continuous supply (I, p. 77).

Sow cresses (II, p. 50) [Method: II, p. 22].

Plant cress seed in the beginning of the month (V, p. 4). Plant white mustard seed (V, p. 4).

"Lettice, Spinage and all kinds of Salading may be planted to use all the Summer but they must be frequently watered and shaded from the Sun"(VI, p. 212) .

HERBS

Garlic

1 April [1784] " … Set out Garlick & Onions" (IV, p. 2).

Mint

Plant mint (I, p. 78) [Method: I, p. 78].

Nasturtium

If not done last month, plant nasturtium [Indian cress] (II, p. 22) [Method: II, p. 22].

Plant nasturtium in the beginning of the month (V, p. 4).

Pot & Medicinal Herbs

This month or next you may transplant the dill, fennel, borage, burnet, bugloss, sorrel, marigold, orach, and clarey into beds a foot apart. (These were sown as seeds in February) (I, p. 32).

"Continue to plant aromatic Herbs, Rosemary, Thyme, Lavender etc. and be careful to weed and water what was formerly planted"(VI, p. 212) .

Sage

" … Sage will grow in this or any other month …"(II, p. 50) .

Note: On page 46 Randolph says to sow it in the summer months [Method: II, p. 46].

FRUITS

Cherries

1 April 1777 Peach & cherry trees begin to bloom at Monticello (III, p. 71).

Grapes

6 April 1774 "Planted 30. vines … "(III, p. 52)[Method: III, pp. 52-54] .

Melons

Sow melons during the first of the month (I, p. 78) [Method I, pp. 78-79].

7 April 1774 Planted cantaloupes and watermelons (III, p. 54).

Peaches

1 April 1777 Peach & cherry trees begin to bloom at Monticello (III, p. 71).

Strawberries

Clear the beds Of weeds and take off all the runners unless you plan to start a new bed in September. Those that are now providing fruit should be watered if the weather is dry (I, p. 82).

7 April 1767 "planted strawberry roots"(III, p. 5) . 1 April 1773 "set out strawberries"(III, p. 40) .

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

Newly planted trees

They should be watered "at the roots about once a week." Also in dry weather "water the branches now and then"(I, p. 83) .

Vines

"Vines should be looked over about the middle of this month--they will by this time have made some shoots; and the useless ones should be displaced." The shoots that are left "should be trained along the frame" when they are long enough (I, pp. 81-82) [Method: I, pp. 81-82].

Weeds

Destroy weeds (I, p. 80) [Method: I, p. 80].

MAY

VEGETABLES

Beans (Snap)

For a continuous supply plant once a week (I, p. 84) [Method: I, pp. 84-85]. Draw soil up around the stems of those that need it (I, pp. 84-85).

Sow kidney beans (II, p. 51).

Plant kidney beans (V, p. 5) [Method: V, p. 10].

Beets

If not done last month, sow your winter crop (I, p. 89).

Cabbages & Savoys

If not done in April then plant cabbages for a winter crop. Those planted previously should be hoed often and should have dirt drawn up around the stems (I, p. 85).

Those planted in March or April should be transplanted at a distance of 2 ½ feet from each other with 3 ½ feet between rows (II, p. 7).

Plant cabbage seed (V, p. 5).

Carrots & Parsnips

If your winter crop was not sown in April then sow it as soon as possible (I, p. 86).

2 May 1774 Sowed carrots (III, p. 55).

Carrots should be weeded and thinned (V, p. 18) [Method: V, p. 18].

Cauliflowers & Broccoli

If not sown last month then do so in the first half of this month (I, p. 85) [Method: I, pp. 85-86].

Sow broccoli at the end of the month (II, p. 7) [Method: II, p. 7].

27 May 1767 Planted cauliflowers and broccoli (III, p. 5). 2 May 1774 Sowed broccoli (III, p. 55).

Plant cauliflower seed (V, p. 5) [Method: V, p. 19]. Plant broccoli at the end of the month (V, p. 5). Sow broccoli at the first and last of the month (V, p. 17).

Celery

You may plant a late crop during the first part of the month (I, pp. 87-88) [Method: I, pp. 87-88]. "The celery plants that were sown in March, will be fit to prick out towards the middle of the month, into a nursery bed of light, rich earth" (I, pp. 87-88)[Method: I, pp. 87-88] .

At the beginning of the month sow celery (II, p. 14).

Plant celery,(V, p. 5).

Colewort (Collards)

2 May 1774 Sowed Coleworts (III, p. 55).

Cucumbers, Squashes, &c.

Plant these at any time "in an open situation." Water them if the weather is dry (i, p. 88).

Sow cucumbers for pickling (II, p. 19) [Method: II, pp. 19-20].

Plant cucumbers for pickling (V, p. 5).

Lettuces

Plant brown Dutch, Silesia, and cabbage lettuce (I, p. 86) [Method: I, p. 86].

Sow cabbage lettuce leaving 10 inches between them (II, pp. 27-28).

27 May 1767 Planted lettuce (III, p. 5). 2 May 1774 Sowed ice lettuce (III, p. 55).

Onions

Weed and thin your onions (V, p. 28) [Method: V, p. 28].

Peas

Sow peas (II, p. 51) [Method: II, pp. 38-40].

28 May 1767 "latest peas of Feb. 20 will come to table within about 4. days"(III, p. 5) . 28 May 1767 Forward peas sown March 17 were eaten (III, p. 5). 30 May 1771 Peas sown March 6 were eaten (III, p. 23). 22 May 1773 "first patch of peas [sown March 12] come to table. note this spring is remarkeably forward" (III, p. 40) . 2 May 1774 Planted peas (III, p. 55). 16 May 1774 Peas sown March 10 were eaten (III, p. 55). 26 May 1774 "a second patch of peas come to table"(III, p. 55) .

Plant dwarf peas (V, pp. 5 & 35).

Radishes

Sow salmon and turnip radishes once a week or once every 2 weeks (I, p. 87) [Method: I, p. 87]. You may sow some lettuce with the radishes (I, p. 87).

Plant radishes twice (II, p. 51) [Method: II, pp. 41-43].

27 May 1767 Planted radishes (III, p. 5).

Plant radishes two times (V, p. 5).

Red Pepper (Capsicum)

Those sown the beginning of April will be ready to transplant by mid-May (I, p. 89) [Method: I, p. 89].

Spinach

Plant spinach if needed. You may plant some radishes with it (I, p. 87) [Method: I, p. 87].

2 May 1774 Sowed spinach (III, p. 55).

Tomatoes & Peppers

Transplant those that were planted in April (I, p. 89) [Method: I, p. 89].

SMALL SALADING ("cresses, mustard, radish, rape, &c.")

Sow every week (I, pp. 86-87) [Method: I, pp. 86-87].

HERBS

Featherfew

Plant featherfew (II, p. 50) [Method: II, p. 24].

Plant featherfew (V, p. 5).

Hyssop

Plant hyssop from cuttings (II, p. 26) [Method: II, pp. 26-27].

Parsley

2 May 1774 Planted curled parsley (III, p. 55).

Sweet & Pot Herbs (mint, balm, sage, thyme, hyssop, savory, etc.)

Gather and dry them (I, pp. 89-90) [Method: I,pp. 89-90].

FRUITS

Cherries

14 May 1774 "cherries ripe" (III, p. 55) .

Fig Trees

All suckers should be taken off as well as any new shoots "on the old wood"(I, pp. 97-98) .

Melons

Plant these at any time "in an open situation." Water them if the weather is dry (I, p. 88).

Sow melons for a crop from August to October (II, p. 32) [Method: II, pp. 32-33].

Plant melons (V, p. 5).

Peaches, Nectarines, & Apricots

Thin these by picking off some of the fruit before it grows and ripens (I, pp. 92-94) [Method: I, pp. 92-94]. Prune these trees, too (I, pp. 92-94) [Method: I, pp. 92-94].

Strawberries

28 May 1767 Strawberries ripe. They were planted in the spring of 1766 and this is their first time bearing (III, p. 5).

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

Newly planted trees

Water them every week. Give them "Half a large watering pot of water"(I, p. 98) .

Transplanted plants

All plants that have been transplanted should be watered until they have rooted (I, pp. 91-92).

Vines

Prune your vines, and after this is done, take off all new shoots as they appear (I, pp. 96-97) [Method: I, pp. 96-97].

Weeding

Now's the time to take much care in keeping the garden weeded (I, pp. 90-91).

"This month is chiefly for weeding and watering: "Nothing sown or planted does well"(VI, p. 213) .

JUNE

VEGETABLES

Beans (Snap)

Plant early white, black, or yellow dwarfs or the white runners (I, pp. 99-100) [Method: I, pp. 99-100]. Those sown earlier should be hoed often and should have soil drawn up around their stems (I, pp. 99-100).

4 June 1774 Windsor beans sown March 23 were eaten (III, p. 56).

Sow French beans or broad beans (V, p. 6).

Cabbages & Savoys

Those planted about mid-April should be transplanted (I, pp. 100-101) [Method: I, pp. 100-101]. You may plant more for a winter crop (I, pp. 100-101) [Method: I, pp. 100-101].

Sow some cabbages (II, p. 51).

Plant and transplant cabbages (V, p. 6).

Plant cabbages (VI, p. 213) [Method: VI, p. 213].

Carrots & Parsnips

If not done in April or May, sow a winter crop (I, pp. 102-103) [Method: I, pp. 102-103].

Those planted earlier should be hoed often and thinned (I, pp. 102-103) [Method: I, pp. 102-103].

Plant carrots and parsnips (VI, p. 213) [Method:. VI, p. 213].

Cauliflowers & Broccoli

Plant these the first of the month as you plant cabbages. Prick out those planted last month (I, pp. 101-102) [Method: I, pp. 101-102].

"… prick out Brocoli …"(II, p. 51)

"… prick out Cauliflowers …"(II, p. 51) .

Plant broccoli seed mid-month (V, p. 6).

" … prick out Colliflowers, and Brocoli…"(V, p. 6)[Method: V, pp. 17 & 19] .

Celery

"Prick out celery plants if wanted, and not done in the last month …" (I, p. 104) [Method: I, pp. 87-88].

Transplant your celery into beds (II, p. 14) [Method: II, p. 14].

Celery planted in March should be put in trenches (V, p. 21) [Method: V, p. 21].

Cucumbers, Squashes, &c:

More may be planted now, and those planted in May should be thinned (I, pp. 105-106) [Method: I, pp. 105-106].

Sow cucumbers (V, p. 6).

Lettuces

Plant cabbage, Silesia, and brown Dutch lettuce (I, p. 103) [Method: I, p. 103]. Those already planted should be hoed and thinned to 7 or 8 inches apart (I, p. 103).

Sow cabbage lettuce leaving 10 inches between them (II, pp. 27-28).

Onions

Examine your "forwardest crop of onions" and about mid-month some should be ready to be gathered (I, pp. 104-105) [Method: I, pp. 104-105].

Peas

5 June 1774 "a third & fourth patch of peas come to table"(III, p. 56) .

13 June 1774 "a fifth patch of peas come in"(III, p. 56) .

4 June 1777 forward peas sown March 10 were eaten (III, p. 71).

Sow peas (V, p. 35) [Method: V, p. 35].

Radishes

Sow short top radishes in succession (I, pp. 103-104) [Method: I, pp. 103-104].

Plant radishes twice (II, p. 51).

Plant radishes two times (V, p. 6).

Tomatoes

They will now need "sticks to support them" (I, p. 106) [Method: I, p. 106].

SMALL SALADING ("cresses, mustard, radish, rape, &c.")

Plant mustard and cresses every 10 to 14 days (I, p. 104) [Method: I, p. 104].

HERBS

Garlick & Shalots

When the leaves start to wither, they are ready to be pulled. Take care of them in the same way you do your onions (I, p. 105).

Thyme, Sage, Carduas, Rosemary, Lavender, etc.

Clip "Herbs for drying"(VI, p. 213) .

FRUITS

Espalier Trees of Apples, Pears, Plums, & Cherries

If not done last month, they should be pruned (I, pp. 108-110) [Method: I, pp. 108-110].

Melons

More may be planted now, and those planted in May should be thinned (I, pp. 105-106) [Method: I, pp. 105-106].

Peach, Nectarine, & Apricot Trees

Any new shoots that are not wanted should be taken off, and fruit that is too close together should be thinned (I, pp. 106-108) [Methods: I, pp. 106-108]. Newly planted trees should be watered twice a week in dry weather. Give 1 to 4 gallons to each one depending on its size (I, p. 110).

Raspberries

10 June 1782 "Raspberries come & last a month"(III, p. 94) .

Strawberries

Prepare new beds of strawberries (V, p. 30) [Method: V, p. 30].

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

Weeding

Weed the garden (V, p. 6).

JULY

VEGETABLES

Bush or Snap Beans

Sow the white negro and yellow dwarfs at this time (I, pp. 111-112) [Method: I, pp. 111-112]. Those planted in June should be hoed often and should have soil drawn up around the stems (I, pp. 111-112).

" … plant Kidney Beans to preserve"(II, p. 51) .

15 July 1772 "planted snap beans"(III, p. 33) .

Sow kidney beans (V, p. 7).

Cabbages

Those planted at the end of May should be transplanted. If desired, you may sow more (I, pp. 112-113) [Method: I, pp. 112-113].

Plant some cabbages (II, p. 51).

"The first of the Month plant out cabbages …"(V, p: 7) .

Carrots & Parsnips

If desired, more may be sown. Those planted in June should be frequently hoed and thinned if needed (I, pp. 115-116) [Method: I, pp. 115-116].

At the end of the month plant carrots (V, p. 7) [Method: V, p. 18].

Cauliflowers & Broccoli

If not done last month, transplant your cauliflowers and broccoli (I, pp. 113-114) [Method: I, pp. 113-114].

If desired, you may sow more (I, pp. 113-114) [Method: I, pp. 113-114].

At the end of the month, transplant broccoli (II, p. 7) [Method: II, p. 7].

Transplant cauliflowers (II, pp. 10-11).

" … transplant your Brocoli to stand …"(V, p. 7)[Method: V, P. 17] .

" … About the Middle of this Month plant out Colliflower 32 feet distances in very rich Ground …"(V, p. 7)[Method: V, p. 36] .

Celery

About mid-month transplant your celery (I, pp. 117-118) [Method: I, pp. 117-118].

15 July 1772 "planted out Celery"(III, p. 33) .

The beginning of the month plant out celery (V, p. 7). Those put in trenches last month should be "earthed up" (V, p. 21)[Method: V, pp. 21-22] .

Colewort (Collards)

Sow curled colewort about a foot apart (II, p. 8).

The beginning of the month sow the common coleworts to be transplanted later (II, p. 9) [Method: II, p. 9].

Cucumbers

31 July 1767 Cucumbers eaten (III, p. 6).

15 July 1772 Cucumbers eaten (III,.p. 33).

23 July 1774 Cucumbers ripe (III, p. 56).

6 July 1777 Cucumbers sown in April were eaten (III, p. 71).

Irish Potatoes

31 July 1772 Ate Irish potatoes (III, p. 33).

Lettuces

Sow Silesia and curled coss lettuce twice this month (I, p. 117) [Method: I, p. 117].

Sow cabbage lettuce leaving 10 inches between them (II, pp. 27-28).

24 July 1777 Sowed lettuce (III, p. 71).

Onions & Leeks

Leeks sown the first part of June should be transplanted (I, pp. 114-115) [Method: I, pp. 104-105].

Onions sown in the spring will be ready to gather (I, p. 115) [Method: I, pp. 104-105].

Onions should be ripe. Take them up and lay them out to dry (II, p. 35) [Method: II, p. 35].

Gather onions (V, p. 7) [Method: V, p. 28].

About mid-month, sow onions for a winter crop (V, p. 28) [Method: V, p. 28].

Plant onions (VI, p. 213).

Peas

15 July 1772 Planted peas for a fall crop (III, p. 33).

22 July 1772 "had last dish of our spring peas" sown March 30 (III, pp. 33 & 36)

13 July 1774 "last dish of peas"(III, p. 56) .

24 July 1777 Sowed peas (III, p. 71).

Plant peas at the end of the month (V, p. 7).

At the end of the month plant peas for the autumn (VI, p. 213).

Radishes

If desired, you may plant short top, salmon, and turnip radishes (I, pp. 118-119) [Method: I, pp. 118-119].

Plant radishes twice (II, p. 51) [Method: II, pp. 41-43].

Spinach

At the end of the month plant round seeded or broad leaved spinach for the fall. You may plant some radish seed with it (I, pp. 119-120) [Method: I, pp. 119-120].

Towards the end of the month or the middle of August, sow spinach (II, p. 44) [Method: II, p. 44].

24 July 1777 Planted spinach (III, p. 71).

Sow spinach in drills for winter use (V, p. 32) [Method: V, p. 32].

Turnips

In the last half of the month, sow turnips (I, pp. 116-117) [Method: I, pp. 116-117].

Plant turnips (II, p. 51) [Method: II, pp. 47-49].

Plant turnip seed (V, p. 7).

Plant turnips (VI, p. 213).

SMALL SALADING ("cresses, mustard, radish, rape, &c.")

Sow once a week for a continuous supply (I, p. 119) [Method: I, p. 119].

24 July 1777 Sowed cresses (III, p. 71).

HERBS

Garlic

Those planted last August or September should be taken up and dried (II, p. 37).

Nasturtium

Blooms in July (III, chart on p. 94).

FRUITS

Peach, Nectarine, & Apricot Trees

If not pruned last month, prune now (I, pp. 120-122) [Method: I, pp. 120-122].

Watermelons

31 July 1774 Watermelons sown in April are ripe (III, p. 56).

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

Watering

All plants that have been transplanted should be watered in dry weather until they have taken root. Always water them about 2 hours before the sun sets so that the water can soak in before sunrise next day (I, p. 120).

"What was done last Month may also be done this. Continue to water, in the evening only … Water such things as are going to seed, it being very needful to preserve good Seed"(VI, p. 213) .

AUGUST

VEGETABLES

Bush or Snap Beans

First of the month, sow any of the dwarfs for a crop in the autumn. Those planted earlier should be hoed often and have soil drawn up around the stems. (I, p. 124) [Method: I, p. 124].

Cabbages

Plant sugar-loaf, early York, and savoy cabbage seed. These will head at the end of November and give a supply until January (I, pp. 125-126) [Method: I, pp. 125-126]. Transplant cabbages and savoys now if desired (I, pp. 125-126) [Method: I, pp. 125-126].

Plant some cabbages (II, p. 51).

Carrots & Parsnips

Carrots may be sown this month (I, p. 128) [Method: I, pp. 102-103].

Sow carrots at the end of the month (II, p. 12) [Method: II, p. 12]. The seeds of your parsnips should be ripe. Gather them and dry them (II, pp. 37-38) [Method: II, pp. 37-38].

Plant carrots (V, p. 8) [Method: V, p. 18].

Cauliflowers & Broccoli

The first of the month transplant broccoli and cauliflowers if not done in July (I, p. 127) [Method: I, p. 127]. Those planted in July should be hoed often and should have soil drawn up around the stems (I, p. 127) [Method: I, p. 127].

1 Aug. 1786 Transplanted cauliflower broccoli sown from seed in the spring (IV, p. 3).

Celery

Transplant celery (I, pp. 128-129) [Method: I, pp. 128-129].

1 Aug. 1786 Transplanted celery (IV, p. 3).

Corn

3 August 1774 "Indian corn comes to table" (III, p. 56).

Lettuces

They may be planted now and transplanted later (I, p. 131) [Method: I, p. 131].

Sow cabbage lettuce leaving 10 inches between them (II, pp. 27-28).

3 Aug. 1786 "Sowed Lettuce Seed, on Border on left Hand under small Paling in the large Garden"(IV, p. 3) . 7 Aug. 1786 "Sowed Lettuce under North Paling. E. Garden"(IV, p. 3) . 28 Aug. 1786 "Sowed Lettuce on small Border under Yard Pales"(IV, p. 3) .

Aug. 1st plant onion, radish, and lettuce seed together (V, p. 8).

Onions

At the end of the month plant onions "in a bed very thick, in order to be transplanted out in October or November …"(I, p. 127)

Gather seeds produced by onions (II, p. 36) [Method: II, p. 36].

Aug. 1st plant onion, radish, and lettuce seed together (V, p. 8) [Method: V, p. 28].

Peas

During the first half of the month, plant Charleton or golden hotspur for a crop in the fall (I, p. 123) [Method: I, p. 123].

On the 12th sow peas for use in October through cold weather in November or December (II, p. 40) [Method: II, pp. 38-40].

Black-eyed peas: 3 Aug. 1774 Ate Black eyed peas sown 25 March (III, p. 56).

3 Aug. 1786 "Sowed two Rows of Six week Peas.--two Rows of Dwarf Marrow fats" (IV, p. 3) . 7 Aug. 1786 "Sowed four Rows Peas opposite to those sown 3d"(IV, p. 3) .

On the 12th plant peas for a fall crop (V, p. 8).

Sow Dwarf and Hotspur peas (VI, p. 213).

Potatoes

Plant potatoes early in the month for a winter crop (I, p. 131) [Method: I, p. 131].

Radishes

Sow salmon, short top, and turnip radishes every 2 weeks for a constant supply (I, pp. 131-132) [Method: I, pp. 131-132].

Plant radishes (II, p. 51) [Method: II, pp. 41-43].

Aug. 1st Plant onion, radish, and lettuce seed together (V, p. 8). Aug. 12th Plant radishes (V, p. 8).

Spinach

About mid-month sow round seeded spinach for a crop in November. For a continuous supply sow it "two or three times between this and October"(I, p. 128)[Method: I, p. 128] .

If not sown at the end of July, sow spinach about the middle of the month (II, p. 44) [Method: II, p. 44].

Aug. 12th Plant spinach (V, p. 8) [Method: V, p. 32].

Turnips

Sow early Dutch turnips towards the first of the month for use in the fall and winter (I, pp. 129-130). Those sown last month should be hoed and thinned every 2 weeks (I. p. 130) [Method: I, p. 130].

Plant Turnips (II, p. 51) [Method: II, pp. 47-49]. Aug. 12th Plant Turnips (V, p. 8). Plant turnips (VI, p. 213).

SMALL SALADING ("cresses, mustard, radish, rape, &c.")

May still be sown. Water often until they come up and then water them "every other evening"(I, p. 132) .

Plant cresses (II, p. 51) [Method: II, p. 22].

Plant garden cresses (V, p. 8). Plant white mustard (V, p. 8).

HERBS

Garlic

Plant garlic (II, p. 37) [Method: II, p. 37].

FRUITS

Cherries

1 Aug. 1767 "inoculated May cherry buds into 4. stocks of unknown kind"(III, p. 6) . 3 Aug. 1767 "inoculated common cherry buds into stocks of large kind at Monticello"(III, p. 6) .

Strawberries

28 August 1786 "Planted out Strawberries, in both Gardens"(IV, p. 4) .

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

Watering and Weeding

"Still Continue to weed and water as before"(VI, p. 213) .

SEPTEMBER

VEGETABLES

Bush Beans

Those already planted should be hoed often and should have soil drawn up around the stems. If you did not plant any last month, do so as soon as possible (I, p. 134) [Method: I, p. 124].

Sow beans (VI, p. 213).

Cabbages & Savoys

Towards the end of the month, transplant those planted in August (I, pp. 134-135). If none were planted in August, do so as soon as possible (I, pp. 134-135) [Method: I, pp. 134-135]. Towards the end of this month or early in October, plant sugar-loaf, early York, and drum-head cabbage seed for a spring crop (I, pp. 134-135).

On the 10th plant cabbages (II, p. 51).

The beginning of the month, plant cabbage seed (V, p. 9).

Carrots

At the beginning of the month sow carrots for a crop at the end of December. Those planted earlier should be thinned and frequently hoed (I, pp. 137-138).

Cauliflowers & Broccoli

You may transplant cauliflowers and broccoli (I, pp. 135-136) [Method: I, p. 127]. Those transplanted earlier should be hoed frequently. Towards the end of the month or early in October plant cauliflower seed which can be transplanted around Christmas and be ready to use the first part of May (I, pp. 135-136).

On the 12th sow cauliflowers (II, p. 10) [Method: II, p. 11].

Around the 10th plant cauliflower seed (V, p. 9). The end of the month, transplant your cauliflowers into beds to stay until November (V, p. 9) [Method: V, p. 13].

Celery

Those planted in July will need soil drawn up around them. About mid-month plant more for a crop at the end of November (I, p. 139) [Method: I, p. 139].

Lettuces

Transplant those sown in August (I, pp. 139-141) [Method: I,pp. 139-141].

Those transplanted in August should be hoed frequently. You may sow white curled coss, Silesia, brown Silesia, cabbage, brown Dutch, or green and white coss lettuce early in the month for use from Christmas to spring (I, pp. 139-141) [Method: I, p. 131].

Sow Dutch brown lettice (VI, p. 213).

Onions

About mid-month sow onions (I, p. 137) [Method: p. 137].

About the 20th is good for planting onion seed (V, p. 28).

Peas

Peas sown in August should have soil drawn up around the stems. "Set sticks to" those that are now 4 or 5 inches high. The sticks should be 4 to 5 feet in height. If you did not plant any last month, do so as soon as possible (I, p. 133) [Method: I, p. 123].

Sow peas (VI, p. 213).

Potatoes

Those planted last month should be hoed. About mid-month draw some soil up around the stems. This should be done every 10 to 12 days until "the roots begin to swell, and the tops nearly cover the ground"(I, p. 137) .

Radishes

During the first half of the month, plant salmon, short-top, and turnip radishes for a fall crop (I, p. 141) [Method: I, p. 141]. Those planted last month should be watered when dry (I, p. 141).

Plant radishes (II, p. 51) [Method: II, pp. 41-43].

The beginning of the month plant radish seed (V, p. 9).

Spinach

Sow spinach for winter use (I, p. 138) [Method: I, p. 138]. Spinach planted last month should be hoed (I, p. 138).

Plant spinach after the full moon (V, p. 9) [Method: V, p. 32]. Weed and thin to 5 inches apart spinach that has leaves an inch wide (V, p. 32).

Sow spinach (VI, p. 213).

Turnips

If you didn't sow any last month then sow early Dutch or red top turnips right away. Turnips previously sown should be hoed 2 or 3 times this month (I, pp. 136-137).

SMALL SALADING ("cresses, mustard, radish, rape, &c.")

If desired, sow more (I, pp. 141-142) [Method: I, pp. 141-142].

HERBS

Clary

Plant out clary at Michaelmas [Sept. 29] (II, p. 22) [Method: II, p. 22].

Garlic

If not done last month, plant garlic (II, p. 37) [Method: II, p. 37].

Horseradish

In the autumn or about Michaelmas [Sept. 29] you can begin to take up some roots for use (I, pp. 13-16) [Method: I, pp. 13-16].

Rosemary

Plant rosemary (II, p. 43) [Method: II, pp. 43-44].

Tansy

Sow tansy (II, p. 52) [Method: II, pp. 46-47].

FRUITS

Cherries

30 Sept. 1771 Planted wild cherry tree(s) (III, p. 23).

Raspberries

" … plant layers of Raspberries …"(V, p. 9) .

Strawberries

During the last half of the month plant strawberries (I, pp. 142-143) [Method: I, pp. 142-143].

Transplant strawberries. Also, take off all runners and dig among the plants and give them some good soil or "woodpile" (II, p. 45).

" … plant out Strawberries dress your Strawberry Borders"(V, P. 9) .

Fruit Trees

"Now you may inoculate with Buds"(VI, p. 213) .

OCTOBER

VEGETABLES

Artichokes

In the last half of the month "give them their winter dressing"(I, pp. 150-151)[Method: I, pp. 150-151] .

"Dress your Artichokes"(VI, p. 214)[Method: VI, p. 214] .

Asparagus

In the last half of the month give them their winter dressing (I, pp. 152-153) [Method: I, pp. 152-153]. You may sow some endive or early York cabbages on the asparagus beds, but they must be taken up by February 10th so that the asparagus can have its spring dressing (I, pp. 152-153).

The stems should be cut "and the beds covered with rotten dung about six inches, part of which may be taken off in February or March, and the remainder forked up in the beds(II, p. 4) .

At the end of the month "cut down your Asparagus and cover the Beds well with Manure"(V, p. 10) .

"Trim and dress your asparagus beds"(VI, p. 214)[Method: VI, p. 214] .

Bush Beans

Those planted in September should be hoed often and those that are 4 or 5 inches high should have some soil drawn up around them (I, p. 144).

Sow beans for use in spring (II, p. 52).

Plant Windsor and Garden beans (VI, p. 214).

Cabbages

If not done last month then transplant the early York, sugar-loaf, and savoy cabbages (I, pp. 144-145) [Method: I, pp. 144-145]. Those transplanted in August and September should be hoed often and should have some soil drawn up around them (I, pp. 144-145).

On the 20th plant some cabbages (II, p. 52).

"Dung your Ground, in order to plant Cabbages Set them out on Beds to prevent the Waters Standing… "(V, p. 10) .

Carrots

If the tops of those planted earlier do not cover the ground, then hoe them every 2 or 3 weeks, and if they are growing too thick, thin them (I, p. 147).

Cauliflowers & Broccoli

Transplant your cauliflowers and broccoli (I, pp. 145-146) [Method: 1, pp. 145-146].

Those transplanted earlier should be hoed often and should have some soil drawn up around the stems (I, pp. 145-146).

On the 20th transplant cauliflowers (II, p. 10).

On the 20th transplant cauliflowers (V, p. 10).

Celery

Gather soil up around the plants "within six or eight inches of the top of their leaves." Do this 3 or 4 times this month (I, p. 149).

"Set out Celery (for blanching) that was grown in the Spring before"(VI, p. 214) .

Lettuces

In the last half of the month put out some lettuce plants in "the south border of your garden … ." They should be 9 or 10 inches apart, and if the weather is dry, water them until they take root. Those planted in September should be frequently hoed (I, pp. 149-150).

Transplant your cabbage lettuces "into a rich border, sheltered from the weather by a box with a lid, which should be opened every morning and closed in the evening, and in the month of February you will have fine loaf lettuces …"(II, p. 28) .

Transplant lettuce sown in August (V, p. 37).

Plant lettuce (VI, p. 214).

Onions

Those planted in August may be transplanted towards the end of the month (I, pp. 146-147) [Method: I, pp. 146-147].

Peas

Sow peas to be put in hot beds in January or February (II, p. 38) [Method: II, p. 38].

Sow peas (V, p. 35) [Method: V, p. 35].

Radishes

They may be sown for a winter crop (I, p. 150) [Method: I, p. 150].

Plant Radishes (VI, p. 214).

Spinach

If not done before, sow prickly seeded spinach as soon as possible for a winter and spring crop (I, p. 148) [Method: I, p. 148]. Spinach planted previously should be hoed, weeded, and thinned out to 4 or 5 inches apart (I, p. 148).

Spinach sown in July or August should be ready to cut (II, p. 44).

Turnips

Those sown last month should be hoed often and thinned (I, p. 146).

SMALL SALADING ("cresses, mustard, radish, rape, &c.")

If desired, sow more (I, p. 150) [Method: I, pp. 141-142].

HERBS

Garlic & Shalots

Towards the end of the month or in the beginning of November, plant garlic and shalots (I, p. 147) [Method: I, p. 147].

Horseradish

Plant horseradish (II, p. 25) [Method: II, pp. 25-26].

Pot & Medicinal Herbs

The hyssop, thyme, savory, and sweet marjoram planted in February should be thinned to 5 or 6 inches apart. "Those which are sown for edgings need not be thinned"(I, pp. 32-34) .

Rosemary, Rue &c.

You may transplant rosemary, rue, wormwood, and lavender which was planted in February (I, pp. 34-35).

FRUITS

Peaches

8 Oct. 1772 "gathered 2. plumb-peaches at Monticello" (III, p. 34) .

Raspberries

You may plant raspberries at any time (I, pp. 154-155) [Method: I, pp. 154-155]. Clean up the old raspberry beds for the winter (I, pp. 154-155) [Method: I, pp. 154-155].

Prune and dung old raspberries (II, p. 43) [Method: II, p. 43].

You may prune or transplant raspberries (V, p. 31) [Method: V, p. 31].

Strawberries

You may plant new beds of strawberries which will yield fruit the following spring (I, p. 153) [Method: I, p. 153].

Transplant strawberries 12 inches apart that were started last June (V, p. 30).

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

" … Dress your Borders"(V, p. 10) . Ground that is not being used should be manured and spaded and left to lie fallow for the winter (V, p. 25).

NOVEMBER

VEGETABLES

Artichokes

If not done in October, then give them their winter dressing (I, pp. 161-162) [Method: I, pp. 161-162].

This month is a good time to work on artichokes if anything needs to be done (II, p. 52). Protect them from the winter cold by putting straw on the earth around them (II, p. 2. Note: Randolph does not give a time to do this, but I assume November is a "good time".)

During the first of the month put soil up around your artichokes and fill in between them with horse manure and litter (V, p. 11) [Method: V, pp. 14-15].

Asparagus

If not done in October, they should be forked and given their winter dressing (I, p. 162) [Method: I, pp. 162 & 152-153].

Cut down your asparagus. Cover them with horse manure and soil (V, p. 11).

If not done last month, then "Trim and dress your asparagus beds" the beginning of this month (VI, p. 214) [Method: VI, p. 214].

Beans

During the last half of the month sow Mazagon beans for a crop early in April (I, pp. 156-158) [Method: I, pp. 156-158].

Cabbages

If not done in October, you can "put out any early or savoy cabbage plants "which will have good heads at the beginning of spring. You may sow them in between your rows of peas leaving 16 to.18 inches between the cabbages(I, p. 159) .

"Take up your Cabbages …"(II, p. 7)[Method: II, pp. 7-8] . Plant cabbages (II, p. 52).

Carrots

" … take up your roots and put them in dry sand, and you may use them as occasion requires"(II, p. 12)[Method: V, p. 18] .

Cauliflowers

Transplant cauliflowers. Cauliflowers that have flowered should be taken up and housed (V, p. 11) [Method: V, pp. 11 & 36].

Celery

"When the weather is open and dry, you should earth up your celery to blanch"(I, p. 161) [Method: I, p. 161] .

"Earth up Celery for blanching"(VI, p. 214) .

Lettuces

Weed and thin lettuces that are in beds where they are to remain for the winter. Transplant those planted in September "into a warm south border" for use in early spring (I, p. 160).

Sow all types of lettuce (VI, p. 214).

Onions

If not done in October, plant onions immediately (I, p. 160) [Method: I, p. 160].

Those put out in October should be hoed often (I, p. 160).

Peas

About mid-month sow early hotspur peas to come up-in early April. If you plan to have them "run on sticks, you may plant a row of cabbage or lettuce plants between them"(I, pp. 158-159)[Method: I, pp. 158-159] .

"Let this seed be sown in a warm border near a walk or fence; observing to sow it pretty thick, and in a fair, dry day"(I, p. 161) .

Sow earliest peas (II, p. 39)

If not done last month, sow peas (V, p: 35) [Method: V, p. 35].

Radishes

Plant some short-top radishes from seed. If they live through the cold weather, they will come in at the beginning of February (I, pp. 160-161).

Sow radishes (VI, p. 214).

SMALL SALADING ("cresses, mustard, radish, rape, &c.")

If desired, sow some "in a sheltered situation …"(I, p. 161) .

Spinach

Sow spinach (VI, p. 214).

HERBS

Parsley

Sow parsley (VI, p. 214).

"The latter end of this Month begin to prune Fruit Trees, especially Vines which may now be done safely"(VI, p. 214) .

FRUITS

Apple & Pear Trees

Prune towards the end of the month (I, pp. 162-163) [Method: I, pp. 162-163].

5 Nov. 1778 "planted 27. wild crabs"(III, p. 79) .

Grapes (& Fruit Trees)

You may plant fruit trees and grape vines towards the end of the month (I, p. 164) [Method: I, pp. 179-180].

Prune trees and vines (V, p. 11).

Peaches, Nectarines, & Apricots

Towards the end of the month they may be pruned (I, p. 163) [Method: I, pp. 16-20].

Raspberries

Transplant raspberries if not done before now, and take care of the older plants (I, p. 164) [Method: I, p. 164].

You may prune or transplant raspberries (V, p. 31) [Method: V, p. 31].

Strawberries

If not done before, transplant strawberries to bear .fruit next year. Also, take care of the old strawberry beds (I, pp. 163-164) [Method: I, pp. 163-164].

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

Shrubs, Trees

Can plant any kind of tree or shrub (V, p. 11) Prune trees and vines (V, p. 11).

"The latter end of this Month begin to prune Fruit-Trees, especially Vines which may now be done safely"(VI, p. 214)

DECEMBER

VEGETABLES

Artichokes

Give them their winter dressing if it has not been done before (I, p. 174) [Method: I, pp. 150-151]..

Asparagus

If not done before, they should be "forked, dunged and dressed" right away (I, p. 174) [Method: I, pp. 152-153]. In October cabbage and lettuce plants could have been planted in with the asparagus, but it is too late to put in any cabbage or lettuce now (I, p. 174).

Beans

About mid-month plant mazagon, long podded, or Windsor beans (I, pp. 165-166) [Method: I, pp. 165-166]. Those beans that have grown to 2 or 3 inches should have some soil drawn up around their stems (I, pp. 165-166).

Broccoli

Hoe them once more, clear away all fallen leaves, and draw some soil up around their stems (I, p. 169).

Cabbages

Those planted in October should be ready to transplant. They should have good heads in April and May (I, pp. 167-168) [Method: I, pp. 167-168]. "If you have a plenty of cabbage plants which were raised from English seed sown in September or October, it would be very adviseable to plant some between the rows of early beans and peas, to cut up for use in March, when you will find greens scarce …" (I, pp. 167-168) .

Carrots & Parsnips

Towards the end of the month sow some early horn or short orange carrot seed (I, p. 172) [Method: I, p. 172].

At the beginning of the month, "take up your Carrots, cut the tops off; and put them in a hole …"(V, p. 12)[Method: V, p. 18] . After the frost has bit your parsnips; take them up, cut off the tops, and put them in a hole (V, p. 12).

Cauliflowers

Towards the end of the month, transplant those cauliflowers that were planted in October (I, pp. 168-169) [Method: I, pp. 168-169]. Those transplanted in May and June should be prepared for the winter (I, pp. 168-169) [Method:I, pp. 168-169].

Celery

" … earth up such celery as stand in need of it." Protect your celery plants from cold weather by covering them with straw. If the area where your celery is planted is wet, transplant them to "a dry warm border, pretty thick, which you may take up for use whenever required"(I, pp. 172-173) .

Cover your celery to shelter it (II,_p. 52 & V, p. 12).

Lettuces

Towards the end of the month sow brown Silesia cabbage and brown Dutch lettuce (I, p. 170) [Method: I, p. 170].

Those already in beds should be hoed and weeded. On very cold nights, cover them with evergreen bushes (I, p. 170).

Onions

If not done before, plant out onions. Those planted earlier should be weeded and hoed often (I, pp. 171-172).

Peas

About mid-month sow some of the early kinds of peas, and at the end of the month sow marrowfats and sugar peas (I, pp. 166-167) [Method: I, pp. 166-167]. Those sown in November should have some soil drawn up around their stems. You can put "a row of pine or any other ever-green bushes" between your rows of peas to help protect them from cold winds (I, pp. 166-167).

Around the 20th plant Almans Hotspur peas. When they are up, bring soil up around them to the tops (V, p. 12) [Method: V, p. 35].

Radishes

"Towards the latter end of this month, sow some short-top radishes for an early crop." You may sow some carrots or spinach with the radishes (I, pp. 169-170) [Method: I, pp. 169-170].

Spinach

Weed, hoe, and thin out your spinach to 3 or 4 inches between plants (I, p. 171).

SMALL SALADING ("cresses, mustard, radish, rape, &c.")

If desired, plant some every 10 to 12 days in an area that gets some sun. Put "straw or bushes lightly over the plants every night" to protect them from frost (I, p. 171).

FRUITS

Apple & Pear Trees

They may be pruned; "and displace all dead and decayed limbs that you may find in any of the trees; and let the young branches be properly thinned"(I, p. 175)[Method: I, p. 175] . Also, they may be transplanted at any time (I, pp. 179-180) [Method: I, pp. 179-180]."plant and prune all manner of Fruit Trees and the like, and prepare Ground for transporting in the Spring"(VI, pp. 214-215) .

Peach, Nectarine, & Apricot Trees

They may be pruned at any time this month (I, pp. 174-175) [Method: I, pp. 16-20]. Also, they may be transplanted at any time (I, pp. 179-180) [Method: I, pp. 179-180]."plant and prune all manner of Fruit Trees and the like, and prepare Ground for transporting in the Spring"(VI, pp. 214-215) .

Plum & Cherry Trees

They may be pruned (I, p. 175) [Method: I, p. 175]. Also, they may be transplanted at any time (I, pp. 179-180) [Method: I, pp. 179-180].

"plant and prune all manner of Fruit Trees and the like, and prepare Ground for transporting in the Spring" (VI, pp. 214-215).

Raspberries

You may plant some out if desired, and the old beds should be given a winter dressing (I, pp. 180-181).

Strawberries

You may plant some out if desired, and the old beds should be taken care of (I, p. 181) [Method: I, pp. 163-164].

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

In General

Dung whatever parts of your garden as need it (V, p. 25).

Vines

They may be pruned (I, pp. 176-179) [Method: I, pp. 176-179]. Also,"you may plant out young vines where required"(I, p. 179)[Method: I, p. 179] .

January

I. Robert Squibb, The Gardener's Calendar for South Carolina, Georgia, and North Carolina (Athens, Georgia, 1980; originally printed 1787, pp. 1-181.

BEANS

"In the beginning of this month, if the weather is open, let some ground be got ready for a principal crop of broad beans. The best sorts are--

The windsor bean, sandwich bean, toker bean, &c.

The windsor bean is an excellent sort, and may be planted the first week in this month; also the toker, which is very fine, and a good bearer. Let the rows be four feet distant from each other; and set the beans either with a blunt ended dibble, two or three inches deep, or drill them that depth; and about five or six inches asunder in the rows.

If you have not planted any mazagon and long podded beans before this month; let some of the two sorts be planted as early as possible--you may plant the mazagon, long podded, and windsor beans all at the same time; and they will succeed each other in bearing.

The mazagon bean should be planted in rows two feet asunder, and four inches distant in the rows; and the long pods two feet and a half or three feet from row to row, and six or seven inches in the row."

PP. 3-4

PEAS

"Let some early hotspur peas be sown the beginning of this month for a full crop, in a warm piece of ground, to succeed the same sorts sown in the two last months-the sorts are--

Charleton, hotspur, golden hotspur, Essex hotspur &c. but the two first are the earliest, and the other is proper to succeed them; sow each sort in rows four feet asunder; if the ground is rich, and you intend to set sticks for their support--but, if you do not intend to give them sticks, three feet will be sufficient.

At the same time also you may sow the first crop of marrowfat peas, and they will succeed the hotspur, for they will come into bearing as the others go off. This pea is much admired in most families; but the dwarf marrowfat is the properest for sowing at this season; observing, if you intend to set sticks for those peas to run upon, to sow them in rows five feet distant from each other--but, if no sticks are intended, three feet and a half will afford space enough.

If you have pease and beans, already advanced two or three inches high or more, take the advantage of a fine day, when the surface of the ground is dry, and draw some earth up to their stems.

This should not be omitted; for it will strengthen the plants, and protect them greatly against the frost and wind."

PP. 4-5

CAULIFLOWERS

"Let every care be taken to protect your cauliflowers from frost--This may be done by binding moss or hay bands round the stems, and about one third of the leaves, and tying the leaves together near the tops.

About the middle of this month, you may transplant the cauliflowers sown in October, if they are of full size to transplant. Let these plants be put out into a warm situation, and in a spot of rich soil well manured with good rotten dung; and plant them about two feet and a half distant from row to row, and two feet in the rows."

p. 6

CABBAGES

"About the beginning, middle, or any time in this month, you may sow early York, sugar-loaf and drum-head cabbage-seed, to come in for summer use--for this purpose, chuse a warm border, under a wall or fence--Dig the ground a spade deep, throw it up into a bed or beds, sow the seed pretty thick, and rake the surface even-should severe weather set in, you may throw a little light litter or straw over the beds, before or after the plants are up.

If your cabbage-plants, sown in October or November, were not transplanted last month, let them be put out soon in this. Let the ground be well manured with good rotten dung, and dig it in a full spade deep, if the land will bear it. Rake the ground smooth, and plant your drumhead or large cabbage plants two feet and a half distant from row to row, and the same distance in the rows … [See December.]"

pp. 5-6

BROCCOLI

"Let your broccoli have frequent hoeings; and let the decayed leaves be taken away as they fall off, which are no ways pleasing to the eye."

P. 6

TURNIPS

"About the latter end of this month, sow a few dutch turnips, for an early crop-if they succeed they will come in about the beginning of April, and will be exceeding good."

P. 6

BEETS

"Sow beets about the latter end of this month, of different sorts, the red beet for a large root, and the green and white sorts, for their leaves in soup, stewing, &c.

Beet seed being pretty large it is an eligible method, either to sow it in drills, in order that it may be more regularly buried in the earth, at an equal depth; or to dot it in with a blunt ended dibble in rows--Let the drills be drawn with a hoe, about an inch and a half deep, and ten or twelve inches asunder-Divide the ground into beds five feet wide, put three or four seeds into each hole, and cover them in as you go on; and after the plants are come up some time, leave only one of the strongest in each hole.

It will be most proper to sow the red and the other sorts separate; for it is the root of the red sort only that is used; and the leaves of the white and green kinds."

P. 7

CARROTS

"When the weather is mild and dry, at any time in this month, let a warm spot of ground be prepared for a few early carrots--Dig the ground a full spade deep, and break the earth well as you go on.

This is only intended for a few to come in a little before the general crop; therefore only a small piece of ground should be prepared for this purpose--Choose a dry mild day to sow the seed; and you may sow a thin sprinkling of radishes with the carrots; and let them be raked in soon; always observing to divide the ground into beds from four to five feet in width."

PP. 7-8

ONIONS

"Let your onions have frequent hoeings; and let the surface of the ground be constantly kept loose, which will greatly promote their growth."

P. 8

SPINAGE

"On a small spot of ground you may sow a little spinage, to come early in the spring, at which time it will be very acceptable in most families; the smooth-leaved or round seeded is the best to sow at this season.

The seed may be sown about the middle or toward the latter end of this month, either in the broad cast, and raked in; or in broad, flat, shallow drills, drawn with a hoe flatways, about an inch deep, and a foot asunder; or you may sow it in drills between rows of early beans and peas."

P. 8

PARSLEY

"Sow some parsley seed in open weather, about the middle or towards the end of this month.

There are two kinds of parsley, the common plain, and curl-leaved, but the latter is greatly to be prefered; the leaves being large, thick, and bushy, and excellent for culinary uses, and much admired for garnish to dishes. Let shallow drills be drawn in a dry part of the garden, and sow the seeds therein pretty thick, and cover them about half an inch deep with earth.

These seeds may be sown in a single drill round the edges of.the kitchen garden quarters, or along the edges of the borders next the paths--This seed lies in the ground sometimes a month or six weeks before it makes its appearance."

PP. 8-9

LETTUCES

"Transplant some more lettuces from the beds or borders where they stand too close together--In doing this, observe to draw the plants out regularly, and let the strongest remain in the bed or border ten or twelve inches distance; then loosen the surface of the earth with a hoe, and clear away the weeds and litter.

The plants which are taken out, should be planted in a warm border of rich earth, at ten or twelve inches distance each way; and if the weather is dry let them have a little water.

Cabbage, silesia, and Dutch brown lettuce may be sown at any time in this month in a sheltered situation, in a spot of light rich earth, open to the sun.

Pick off all dead and decayed leaves as they appear on the plants, and keep them perfectly clear of weeds; and if you stir the surface of the earth between the plants sometimes it will be of service to them."

PP. 9-10

CELLERY

"When the weather is open take the advantage of a dry day to earth up such cellery as require it.

Let the earth be well broken and laid up to the plants lightly, that they may not be crushed down or bruised, raising the earth near to the top of the plants; should severe frost set in, it will injure part of the tops of the plants that are above ground; and if much of the plants should be out of ground in such weather, and be thereby destroyed, it will also occasion a decay of those parts that are within the ground--Therefore it may be necessary to cover the rows with long litter, straw, &c."

P. 10

GARLICK & SHALOTS

"If your garlick or shalots are not already planted, the business should be no longer omitted.--[See October.]"

p. 11

RADISHES

"In the beginning, or any time this month when the weather is open and mild, sow some short top radishes for an early crop, on a warm border that lies well to the sun, under a wall or fence--and about the latter end you may sow the same sort, and some salmon radishes, to succeed them.

You should not mix both sorts together, but let each sort be sown by itself, for the short top will come in ten or twelve days sooner than the salmon radishes; and the short top are much more hardy than the salmon--

The surest method is to sow some short top at least twice or oftner in this month--therefore if you sow some about the beginning, and again at the middle, and towards the latter end of the month, in a warm situation you will seldom fail of success.

There may be mixed and sown with radishes a sprinkling of carrot seed; for if the radishes should fail, the carrots may succeed; and if both -succeed, there will be a double advantage--for when the radishes are drawn off for use, there remains a crop of carrots, which will come in at an early period; or, instead of carrots, you may sow a little lettuce seed or round spinage, and when the radishes are gone off these will come in.

You should sow your radish seeds pretty thick at this season; for when the radish seeds begin to appear, if the weather should prove sharp, it will cut some off, and the birds too will be apt to attack them and destroy many; sow the seeds regularly over the surface, and throw the ground up into beds, about four or four feet and a half wide, and rake the surface even, standing in the alleys--Should there be any appearance of frost after the seed is sown, it will be proper to spread some dry straw or litter over the surface an inch or two thick; which will keep the surface warm, prevent the injury of the frost, and greatly forward the germination of the seed--

Likewise when the plants begin to appear, the same precaution will be necessary to protect them from the frost, by spreading a little straw or litter over the surface, there to remain till they are fairly up--and if the weather proves frosty afterwards, cover them with a little straw, or some light ever green bushes, which may be continued occasionally; by which means the plants will be greatly forwarded in their growth: for should cold north west winds prevail in the day time, the bushes will break the wind, which is almost as hurtful to them as the frost: but this covering must not by any means be kept on in mild, but only in severe weather, until the plants are fairly in rough leaves.

PP. 11-12

ARTICHOKES

"Where your Artichokes were not dressed and landed up in the last month, let this work be done now as soon as possible.--[For the method see October.]"

P. 13

ASPARAGUS

"If your Asparagus beds were not dressed in the last month, let this business be attended to soon in this.--[See October.]"

P. 13

HORSE RADISH

"This plant is propagated by cuttings, either taken off the top an inch or two long, or from the old roots cut in pieces of that length--but the top or crown of the plant is most preferable. The method is this--

First procure a quantity of proper sets;--which may be either the small off-set: that arise from the sides of the main roots, of which take cuttings off their tops, an inch or two long; or you may use the tops of the crowns of the old roots, when taken up for use: or in default of a sufficiency of crowns or tops of either, you may divide a quantity of old knotty roots into cuttings of two inches long; which, if furnished each with two or three buds or eyes, will make tollerable sets. When you intend to make a fresh plantation, you should, during the winter, when you take up the plants for use, reserve all the best crowns of the main roots for planting. But this latter practice can only be pursued in private gardens: for where the large roots are for sale, their tops must not be taken off, which would render them unsaleable in market: therefore the Market Gardeners reserve the strongest off-sets arising from the main root.

Being thus furnished with a proper quantity of sets, proceed to prepare the ground for their reception. And they may either be planted with a dibble, after the ground is dug; or trenched in, as you proceed in digging the ground.

Choose an open situation, and as light and deep a soil as the Garden affords; which must be trenched regularly one good spade deep at least; but if the ground will admit of it, the deeper it is loosened the better.

Then proceed by dibble planting, in the following manner, being provided with a long dibble, begin at one end of the piece of ground--range the line crossways; and with the dibble make holes about fifteen inches deep; and be careful to make them all of an equal depth; which you may readily do by making a mark upon the dibble, and so thrusting it down to that mark: makeing the holes six inches asunder, dropping as you go on, one set or cutting into each hole, with the crown, &c. upwards; taking care to fill or close the hole properly with earth--the rows to be one foot six inches asunder.

The other method of planting, by trenching in the sets, is to open a trench at one end, in the common method of trenching, two spades wide and one spade deep or more; and then having the sets or cuttings provided, plant one row along the bottom of the trench with the crowns upright, about six inches asunder; then dig the next trench the same depth and width, turning the earth into the first trench, over the row of sets; thus proceed, trench after trench, to the end.

By practicing either of the above methods of planting horse-radish, the sets will put forth perfectly straight-rooted shoots quite to the top, whereby they will be long and smooth, and swell evenly their whole length, and will sometimes attain a tolerable perfection the first summer's growth.

When the whole is planted, the ground may be sown with spinage or radishes, which will come off time enough to give the horse radish full time to grow--for these will not come up till the first or middle of April, when the spinage and radishes will be all gathered.

They must be kept weeded for a month or six weeks, after which the leaves will cover the ground, and prevent the growth of weeds.

In the autumn after planting, or about michaelmas, you may begin to take up some of the roots, if wanted for use: but it will be adviseable to let the principal part remain, to have another summer's growth, when they will be very fine and large.

When you take up these roots, it should be done regularly--not digging up a stick here and there, as is often practised in private gardens; but beginning at the first row, and so proceeding from row to row, according as you want them: observing to throw out a trench close along the first row of roots, and as deep as the roots go, but not to loosen the bottom or old set from whence these proceed, which is called the stool.

Having thus cleared away the earth quite close to the stool or bottom of the roots, then with a knife cut each root off level, close to the stool from whence it proceeds--for all the stools or bottoms of the roots must be left in the ground undisturbed; for these will yield a supply of fine roots, the succeeding year--and when the roots are dug up, the stools still remaining will continue as often as the produce is gathered, to furnish a fresh supply of roots every succeeding year.

But care must be taken, when digging up the roots, always to clear the old stool from all straggling or small roots whatever; and in the summer season to draw up all the small plants rising between the rows.

PP. 13-16

PEACH, NECTARINE, & APRICOT TREES

Pruning may be performed on these Trees any time in this month.

In doing this business, you are to observe, that although the trees were pruned last summer, there will still remain many branches which ought to be taken out--The most irregular and most abundant of them are to be cut away, and a due supply of the best-placed and most moderate, strong shoots are to be preserved, in every part, at proper distances--For these trees produce their fruit principally from their former summer's shoots.

The old naked branches, having no young shoots on them, should be entirely taken out; which you will frequently meet with in old standard trees; particularly in their lower and middle limbs. The cause is chiefly owing to neglect of pruning, in due season; for the upper branches crowding over the lower and middle ones, destroy their fertility.

Therefore in pruning these trees, let some of the old naked wood be cut away in every winter's pruning, to make room for the last summer's shoots; and where the branches of the trees are too crowded, let them be thined; observing to take off such as grow most irregularly: and when any branches run across, or interfere much with any of the others, in an improper direction, let them be cut out. But a due supply should be left every where, at moderate distances, to bear fruit the next summer; and all such as are not wanted must be cut away quite close, leaving only the short spurs.

The weaker shoots, which are now left, must, at the same time, be shortened, more or less, according to the vigour of the tree, and strength of the different shoots; which is done in order to procure an effectual supply of new shoots next year, to bear fruit the year following.

But in shortening the shoots, mind to proportion every one, according to it's growth, and original length. For instance--A shoot of about a foot long may be shortened to six or seven inches, according to it's strength; and one from fifteen to eighteen inches, may be shortened to about twelve; and one from two to three feet, need not be shortened at all, if the strength is in proportion to it's length. And you will even find sometimes shoots of a foot long that require no shortening, observing always to leave the strongest and largest shoots.

The general rule for shortening the shoots of young trees, after the first year's planting, is, if they are very strong and vigorous, you may shorten them one fourth; if pretty strong, one third; and if weak, cut off two thirds. Observe to prune out side branches, that are above an inch long; and leave none but the main shoots on the trees--As to the number of the branches, I refer you to heading down young trees.--[See March.]

But such peach, nectarine, and apricot trees, as produce strong and vigorous shoots must be treated accordingly, and must also be shortened less in proportion; and the stronger the branches are, the more room they should have.--When the tree is pruned, the branches should be at least from sixteen to eighteen inches distant from each other, at the extremity of each shoot; but indeed some of the most vigorous shoots should not be shortened at all--This is the only method of pruning, to bring a vigorous shooting tree in good order, so as to produce moderate shoots, such as will bear fruit.

For the more wood you cut out, and in proportion as the shoots are shortened, the more vigorous the trees will become.

By what I have above hinted, the pruner will not be at a loss to know in what matter peach, nectarine, and apricot trees, according to their different growth are to be treated. In the article of pruning, the rule here mentioned is always to be applied to winter prunings.

Another thing is also proper to be observed; that is, where any young shoots, which are left to bear, have produced only small shoots from their sides, they must be cut off close to the principal, for those will neither produce good fruit, nor good wood.

It is proper to direct also, in shortening the shoots, to cut them off as much as possible at a leaf or wood bud, distinguishable from the blossom buds, by being long and flat; the others being round and swelling: or otherwise to prune to a twain blossom bud, that is where two buds arise at the same eye, having a wood bud between them. Either of these rules are necessary to be observed in shortening; in order that each may produce a leading shoot next summer, forming a leader to the main shoot. For where there is a fair leading shoot provided near the extremity of a bearing branch, such shoot seldom fails to yeild a fair and well flavoured fruit.

It will be also necessary to remark one thing more in pruning of these trees; particularly the apricot--In this tree we often preceive in the two year old branches some short shoots or spurs, on which are frequently to be seen several blossom buds: now some people cut these spurs entirely off, but I am much against such a practice; for some of these short natural spurs will produce handsome fruit, both in apricots, peaches, and nectarines, but especially the former."

PP. 16-20

TRANSPLANT FRUIT TREES

"At any time in this month you may with great safety transplant any kinds of fruit trees.--[For the work see December.]

Support tall new planted fruit trees with stakes as soon as they are planted, that they may not be rocked about by the wind, which would greatly retard them from taking root."

P. 20

VINES

Vines may be pruned at any time in this month, if not done in the two former ones.-[For the method see December.]

You may still continue to prune apple, pear, plumb, and cherry trees, if not done in the former month--[For the work see December.]"

PP. 20-21

PRUNING RASBERRY PLANTS

"Prune rasberries--In doing this let it be observed, that all the old wood that produced fruit last summer must now be cut out; for these never bear but once.-Therefore a supply of young wood must be left to bear next year; observe therefore to leave several of the strongest of the last summer's shoots standing upon every root, to bear the fruit to be expected next year.--These being the only proper bearing shoots, they must be allowed room; therefore as above hinted, let all the old wood be cut close to the ground; and selecting from three to .five of the best young shoots on each root or stool, let all the rest above that number be cut away close to the surface of the earth; and at the same time let all. straggling roots be destroyed.

Each of the shoots that are left to bear must be shortened--the rule is this. Take off one third or one fourth or thereabouts of the original length of each shoot, according to the different growths.

In dressing, observe to take up and clear away all straggling roots between the rows, and also all such as do not belong to the standing plants; this digging will strengthen the roots, and the ground will lie clean and neat all the winter."

P. 21

PLANT RASBERRIES

"This is a good season to plant rasberries.--When a new plantation is wanted, observe that the young shoots or suckers which arise every summer from the old roots are the most proper plants for the propagation of them: and fresh plantations of these shrubs should be made in an open situation, where the ground is good; and if you dig in some dung it will be of advantage to the plants.

In choosing the plants for this plantation, observe to take such as are well furnished with roots, for that is a principal article in rasberry plants; and if there be but one or two or more buds formed on the root for next summer shoots, such plants are particularly to be chosen.

Having procured the plants, shorten the shoots a little, and leave only one of the strongest shoots on each root--Let the ends of the roots be also trimmed; then put the plants in rows four or five feet distant, and let them be planted half a yard distant from each other in the rows."

February

BEANS

"Plant Beans of any kind; for all sorts will succeed from this planting.

This is still a proper season for the windsor, token, and also the long pod bean, which is a very great bearer.--Any of the small kind of beans may be planted in this month.

Some of the most approved sorts of beans should be put into the ground every fortnight or three weeks; which will afford a regular supply of young beans during the season for them.

Plant the windsor and toker in rows about three feet and a half, and the long pods about three feet asunder."

P. 23

PEAS

"Sow marrowfat, sugar, rounceval, and other sorts of pease once a fortnight or three weeks; by which means you will have a constant succession of young peas for the table.

Any other of the large or smaller sorts of peas, as mentioned in the former months, may be now sown, allowing the distance of three weeks or thereabouts between each sowing.

Draw drills or trenches for the different kinds of peas, as mentioned in the former-months; and sow them regularly, and cover them over with earth about three inches deep.

All sorts of pease should be sown in open situations, but by no means under trees

Draw the earth to such pease and beans as are now up some height; it will strengthen the plants greatly, and will encourage their growth."

P. 24

SOW CABBAGE SEED

"About the beginning of this month, is a very good season for sowing cabbage seeds to come in for summer use;--for those which were sown last month are very apt to be cut off by the frost, if they are not properly protected with straw, matts, or evergreen bushes.

The sorts proper to sow now, are the early York, sugar-loaf, and all the large kinds.

Let a part of the south border of your garden, if vacant, be prepared to receive the seeds, and divide it into beds crossways the border, three or four feet wide, and sow the seeds thereon but not too thick; for it is intended that those plants should remain there till they are fit to put out for good.--In dry weather let them be frequently watered, and observe to do it always in the morning as soon after sun-rise as possible."

PP. 24-25

CABBAGES

"Transplant cabbage plants of all kinds, if not done in the former month, in the places where they are to remain to cabbage.--It may be done at any time in this month; but if the plants be strong and in good order, the sooner it is done the better: Let them be planted in good ground; allowing about two or two and a half feet distance for the York and sugar-loaf, and two and a half or three feet for the larger sorts.

This distance is to be understood of such plants as are to remain. to grow to their full size; but such of the forward kinds as are to be cut while young, may be planted closer; and sixteen or eighteen inches apart will be sufficient.

Plant out also red cabbages, if not done in the last month; allow two feet distance in the row, and two feet or two feet and a half between row and row."

P. 25

CAULIFLOWERS

"If your cauliflowers sown in October, were not planted out in the last month, let it be done soon in this; and plant them in a good rich soil in a warm situation, in rows at about two feet and a half distance from row to row, and two feet from each other in the row."

P. 26

LETTUCES

Transplant lettuce plants from the beds or borders where they have stood all the winter, that is, if they stand too close.

The plants which are drawn out should be planted in an open spot of rich ground, at ten or twelve inches distance each way.--If the weather be dry let them be watered.--[See January.]

Lettuce seeds of different sorts should be sown the beginning of this month, for a general crop; and to have a regular supply, let some more be sown about the middle, and again towards the latter end of the month.

The proper sorts of lettuce, to sow at this time, are the white coss, the green coss, cabbage, Silesia, brown Dutch; or in short any sorts may be now sown.

Dig, for these seeds, a rich spot of ground, in an open situation; and let the earth be well broken; sow the seeds on the surface, with an even hand; and rake them in lightly, taking care not to draw the earth in heaps."

P. 26

SPINAGE

"Sow spinage to succeed that sown in the last month; the sowings should be repeated every fortnight, or three weeks, or thereabout, to have a regular supply; for the produce of each will not continue fit for use much longer, before it will run.-- Let the seed be of the round leaved or smooth seeded kind; which is the most proper sort to sow at this season; its leaves being considerably thicker, and,every way larger than the prickly spinage.

The seed may at this season be sown either in a spot Alone, or with other crops; particularly, between rows of windsor beans, or between cabbages, or with radishes, &c. observing that, either alone or with other crops, spinage seed should be sown pretty thick, and generally in the broad cast.--Let it be evenly raked.--Or you may otherwise sow it in broad flat drills, about a foot wide, near an inch deep, and a foot asunder.

Let it be observed that spinage should not at this season, be sown, in a situation which is much shaded with trees or bushes; for in such case it is probable the plants would be drawn up to seed, before they arrive to half their growth.

Hoe, or hand-weed early crops of spring spinage, thinning the plants at the same time, to five or six inches distance.

The crops of winter spinage, which were sown last autumn, will be now advancing to good perfection for use; and should be now kept clean from weeds, and the earth between the plants stirred with a hoe; and, in gathering the plants for use, if they stand close you should pull them out clean by the roots; but if they already stand wide distances, only crop the larger outward leaves as wanted, 'till they begin to run; then cut them up clean at the bottom."

PP. 27 and 28

ONIONS AND LEEKS

"I would recommend that onions may be sown this month for a general crop. But I am well aware that many may be of a different opinion, and may perhaps condemn me for attempting a matter so contrary to the usual practice. Therefore I hope that I shall not be rashly accused, before my method is fairly tried.

The beginning of this month, prepare a piece of good rich ground; and let it be well manured, and dug a full spade deep; and throw the square into beds, about four feet over; and let the alleys be about one foot wide, and four inches deep.--Draw four drills or trenches on each bed, at equal distances, about half an inch deep; scatter the seed thinly in each trench, and cover it with the back side of the rake, and then rake it over evenly, standing in the alleys.

Let your transplanted onions have frequent hoeings, and never suffer the surface of the earth to be bound, but kept constantly loose.--Leeks may be sown and managed in the like manner."

P. 28

RADISHES

"Sow some radish seeds, to have a fresh supply to succeed those sown in last month.-There should be some of the salmon, short top, and turnip radishes sown at two or three different times in this month; that is--at the beginning, middle and latter end; by which means there will be a due succession of young radishes for the table.-Let this seed be now sown in an open spot, where the ground is good, and rather of a light, pliable nature.

In sowing these seeds observe the method as mentioned in the last month.

Thin the crops of early radishes, as soon as they arrive to the size of a goose quill; which will greatly promote the growth of the small plants; observe to keep them free from weeds, and clear from any litter.

In dry weather, let the early crops of radishes be frequently watered; otherwise they will not swell freely, but will be sticky and hot.

P. 29

CARROTS AND PARSNIPS

"Sow carrots and parsnips the beginning of this month, for a principal crop; the carrots sown now will be fit for use in May, June, July, and August.--In the latter months you will find them very acceptable.

A spot of light deep ground, in an open situation, should be chosen for carrots and parsnips; for the roots will thrive best in such soil and situation.

The ground should be trenched one good spade deep at least; or rather double dig it, if the land will bear it. Observe in digging to take but thin spits; and be careful to break all the clods, that the roots may have full liberty to run down straight; for if the earth is not well divided or seperated, the roots will be apt to grow unkindly and forked.

Before you sow your seed, throw up the ground into beds, about four or five feet wide; and on each bed, draw four drills or trenches, and set the seed thin in each drill: or you may sow it in the broad cast method; you may also sprinkle a little radish seed amongst the carrots or parsnips, and rake the beds evenly, standing in the alleys." ,

PP. 29 and 30

DRESS OLD ASPARAGUS BEDS

"About the beginning of this month let your asparagus beds have their spring dressing.--In the first place let all the weeds, &c. be cleared away from the surface of the beds; and having provided yourself with a three tined fork as described in October, let them be forked up and the surface laid smooth, and all the lumps of earth, if any, be beaten as fine as possible;--if the land is stubborn and will not rake just now, let it lie a few days and dry, and take the advantage of the first shower of rain, which will meliorate the soil so that the beds will rake free and easy: but before you have finished raking them, you may sow thereon some radish, spinage, or lettuce seed, which will not injure your asparagus in the least provided you do not sow the seeds too thick. When this is done take all the stones, &c. out of the alleys, and if you can procure some dung let them be filled up within eight inches of the surface of the beds, and throw a little earth over it:--By the autumn this dung will be finally purified, and be of great service to the crop that you should plant on these beds, when it must be taken out and laid upon them."

PP. 30 and 31

SMALL SALLADING

"Small sallading, such as cresses, mustard, radish, rape, &c. should, when a constant supply is wanted, be sown once in ten or twelve days on a warm border, in drills about three or four inches asunder, let each sort be kept seperate, and cover them over lightly with fine earth.

When the plants begin to come up, if the earth should cake, so that they cannot rise freely, let it be broken lightly with the hand, or with a small rake.-If they should be attacked with frost, let them be watered before the sun comes on them, which will prevent their turning black, and spoiling."

P. 31

SOWING PARSLEY

"Parsley, if not sown last month, may now be sown, either in beds; or in a single drill, at the edge of the quarters or borders of the garden; it will make a useful, and also a neat edging, if not suffered to grow rank, especially the curled parsley; or if large supplies are wanted for market, it may be sowed in continued rows, nine inches asunder; or upon the general surface, and raked in."

P. 32

POT, AND MEDICINAL HERBS

"The seeds of dill, fennel, borage, burnet, bugloss, sorrel, marigold, orach, and clarey, together with the seeds of all other herbs of the like kinds, may be sowed any time this month, in a bed or border of common earth, and raked in; most of which you may let remain where sown, if the plants are properly thinned;--or you may transplant them into beds, a foot asunder, in April, or May.--plant slips of balm, burnet, tarragow, tansey, penny-royal, feverfew, and chamomile.

In taking off the slips of these plants, be careful to preserve some root to each if possible.--Plant them nine or ten inches distance from each other, in beds of rich earth.

Sow hysop, thyme, savory, and sweet marjoram, rather at the beginning; but they will succeed very well, if sown any time in this month. These seeds should be sown seperately, in spots of rich light earth, and raked in; or they may also be sown in shallow drills, along the edges of borders, or beds; covering them with fine earth, a quarter of an inch deep; and the plants will make neat and useful edgings.

These plants should remain where sown till October; at which time they should be thinned to five or six inches distance; and those that are drawn out may be planted in another spot, six inches asunder: those which are sown for edgings need not be thinned.

Plant slips of sage, hyssop, thyme, and savory, any time in this month.

Those slips or cuttings should be of the last year's growth, from five to seven inches long, observing to slip or cut them off close to the place from whence they 75 of the old plants, which are often furnished with roots: such slips or suckers should be particularly chosen.

Plant all sorts of these herbs in beds or borders, six or seven inches apart; they will take root, and become good plants in a short time.--Water them in dry weather, and they will be strong and well rooted; when they may be transplanted, at proper distances, in beds of rich earth."

PP. 32-34

ROSEMARY, RUE, &c.

"Plant slips of rosemary, rue, wormwood, and lavender; let these be planted in a shady border six inches asunder; they will take root freely if you observe to water them in dry weather: they may be transplanted into more open situations about October, when they will be strong and well rooted.

It must be observed also, in propagating the cuttings of these plants, that the shoots which were produced last year, are to be chosen for that purpose--They should be from five to seven inches in length, according as you can find them; observing to slip them off close to the part from whence they proceed.

Put each slip or cutting about two parts out of three into the ground.

But sometimes there are also slips or suckers to met with, which arise immediately from the stems of the old plants, near the surface of the ground:--These should be prefered, because they are often well furnished with roots.

Now is a good time to make new plantations of Mint."

PP. 34 and 35

MINT

"This plant is to be propagated, either by parting the root, or by the slips of the young plants, taken up with roots or fibres at the bottom; or by the cuttings of the young stalks next month, or in April, &c. But at this season the increasing it by slips or parting the roots is most generally practiced--and the method is this:

Having procured the roots let them be planted in rows about six inches asunder, and five or six inches distant in rows; and if the weather is dry let them have a tolerable watering, to settle the earth about their roots.

In the third or fourth week in this month you may have recourse to such old beds of mint, as are well stocked with plants, observing to slip or draw them up by the roots: In doing which, you must draw them up gently, and with the help of your knife at time, to raise or seperate them; by which care, every plant will rise with good roots.

The method of propogating by roots is this: Having procured a sufficient quantity of old roots, draw drills with a hoe six inches asunder, extend the roots or runners along the bottom of the drills; cover them about an inch deep with the earth, and then make the ground even."

P. 35

PLANTING ASPARAGUS

"Any time in this month is a very proper season to remove the roots of asparagus, for the making of new plantations.

In the doing of which, the chief matter to be regarded is the choice of a proper soil; which should be the best and deepest the garden affords: it must not be too wet, nor too strong or stubborn; but such as is moderately light and pliable; so that it will readily fall to pieces in digging, raking &c. and in a situation that is open, and enjoys the full sun.

The ground where you intend to make new asparagus beds should be regularly trenched or dug to a good depth; and a large quantity of rotten dung buried in each trench, at least ten or twelve inches below the surface of the ground.

The ground being dug and laid level, divide it into beds three feet in width, with alleys about twenty inches wide between bed and bed.

Two rows of these roots are to be planted on each bed, allowing about sixteen or eighteen inches between each plant; and let the rows be about eighteen inches from row to row.

Next let it be observed that the plants to be chosen must not be more than two years old; but most good gardeners prefer those that are only one year from the seed, which are such as I would recommend; as from experience I have found they have generally taken root more freely, and succeeded every way better than two year old plants.

The following is the method of planting them:

Strain your line length-ways the beds, about eight inches from the edge; and 77 then, with a spade, cut out a small trench or drill, close to the line, about six inches deep; making that side next the line nearly upright; and when one trench is opened, plant that, before you open another, at the distance before directed.

In placing the roots observe they must not be horizontally extended or put flat in the bottom of the trench, as practiced by some people; but they must be laid nearly upright, against the back of the trench or drill, so that the crown of 'the plants may also stand upright, about two or three inches below the surface of the ground: Let them be all placed at an equal depth, spreading their roots a little in nearly a direct position against the back of the trench; and, at the same time, drawing a little earth up against them with the hand, as you place them; just to fix the plants in their due position. When one drill is thus planted, immediately with the rake draw the earth into the drill over the plants; and then open another drill, proceed in the same method till the whole is planted. Then let the surface of the bed be raked smooth, and cleared from stones, &c.

At each corner of every bed, let a firm stake be driven into the ground, to serve as a mark for the alleys.

It is the custom with some people, who are obliged to make the most of every spot of ground, to sow a thin crop of onions, the first year, on new asparagus beds; and this should be performed before the beds are raked; sowing the seeds and raking them lightly in. A crop of onions may thus be obtained, without hurting the asparagus, provided the onions are not suffered to grow just about the plants.

The asparagus being planted, the next care is, when the plants come up, which will be about the end of this month, or the beginning of the next, to keep them clean from weeds; which must be particularly attended to during the summer season.-[For the further management in dressing up the beds, &c. which must be done this month, see October.]

It will be two years, from the time of planting two year old roots, before the asparagus will produce handsome buds large enough for use; tho' sometimes a few of the largest are cut the second spring after planting. But I do advise to let it be the third year before you make a general cutting.

A plantation of asparagus, if the beds are properly dressed every year, as directed, in the spring and autumn months, will continue to produce buds for twelve or fourteen years.

In making new plantations of asparagus, it is the custom with some gardeners, instead of putting in your plants as before directed, to sow the seed at once in the beds, where the plants are to remain: This is not a bad method--for by such practice the roots are not disturbed by a removal, and consequently cannot fail of producing a regular crop. But it must be observed, that if two pieces of ground are to be laid down the same year with asparagus; supposing one piece to be planted with young roots, and the other sown with seed, that piece which was planted will be ready to cut, a year before that sown with seed.

However to such as choose to raise a plantation of asparagus at once from seed, the method is this:

The beds are to be three feet wide, and prepared as before directed for the plants; then mark out two lines lengthways on the beds, and allowing these lines at the distance of sixteen or eighteen inches, dot in a few seeds, covering them about half an inch deep. When the plants have been up some time, you must thin them, leaving only one of the strongest in each place, and carefully clearing them from weeds-

A plantation of asparagus thus raised will produce beds fit to cut the-fourth spring after sowing, but they will be very large and fine the fifth year.

This is now the season to sow asparagus seed, to raise plants to make new plantations.

This seed should be sown about the beginning or middle of this month, on beds of rich earth, about four feet wide, Let it be sown in the broad cast, on the surface; and throw up the alleys about fourteen or sixteen inches wide, and three inches deep; let the seed be buried about half an inch in the earth, and let the ground be raked smooth:--the plants will be up in a month, when they must be kept very clean from weeds, by a careful hand, weeding them at different times in the summer.

If the weather be very dry, when the plants come up, it will be proper to refresh them, now and then, with a little water; which will greatly forward them in their growth.

They will be fit to plant out for good next spring, agreeable to the method prescribed."

PP. 36-40

ARTICHOKES

"Make a general dressing of artichokes, the beginning or middle of this month.

Where the plants have been landed up in the autumn to protect them from frost, let the ground be now levelled down, especially if the plants have begun to shoot tolerably strong; observe, as you proceed in levelling down, to dig and loosen all the earth about the plants; and at the same time, examine the number of shoots or suckers proceeding from each stool or root; and selecting two or three of the strongest to remain on every stool or root, you may then readily get to slip the superabundant shoots off clean from the place whence they arise; minding, as above directed, to leave two good shoots, but never more than three, upon each root or stock; closing again and gently pressing the earth about the roots, and also about the young plants, with your hands.

The shoots that are slipped off will serve to make fresh plantations, where wanted; for artichokes are generally increased by planting the young shoots; and this is the season to do it.

When any new plantations of artichokes are intended, let them be planted so soon in this month as you can procure good plants for that purpose; observing that those slips or suckers slipped off, in spring dressing, from the largest plants, as above directed, are the proper sets to be chosen.

There are two sorts of artichokes, the large globe, and the French green or oval artichoke; but the former is greatly preferable to plant for a general supply, the head being considerably larger, and the eatable parts more thick and fleshy.

They should be planted in an open situation, and in good ground; it may be 79 necessary therefore to spread a quantity of good rotten dung over the piece, and to dig it in.--The sets must be planted, with a dibble, in rows of five feet asunder, and four feet in the row--give them some water immediately after they are planted, to settle the earth about the plants.

The above plantation, if kept clear from weeds, and watered now and then in dry weather, in the beginning of the spring, till they have taken good root, w211 not fail to yield artichokes in June.

You may in the spring, when your artichokes are dressed, plant a row of drum head cabbage plants between them, or sow radishes, spinage and lettuce; as also, between the rows of your new planted shoots.

A plantation of artichokes will continue to produce good heads six or seven years, and sometimes longer; but it must be observed, that such persons as desire to have a succession of them for two or three months in the summer, should make a new plantation ever spring; for the old stocks, which have been planted a year or two, produce heads in May and June; and the slips planted now produce their heads in June and July.

About the latter end of this month, sow the seed of artichokes; for this purpose choose a small piece of good ground, in an open situation; throw it up into a bed, about four feet wide; draw four drills thereon, about nine inches from each other, and half an inch deep; plant the seeds about six inches distant in the row; cover the seed over and rake the other ground smooth. The plants from these seeds will be fit to put out, &c.

PP. 40-42

IRISH POTATOES

"Irish potatoes may be planted at any time in this month--these roots thrive best in a moderate, light, loose soil; and where it is not wet, if you add dung it will be of great advantage.

For propagating potatoes be careful to procure some good roots; that is, to pick a quantity of the best kind of potatoes, choosing such as are perfectly sound, and of a tolerable large size: These are to be prepared for planting, by cutting or quartering them; that is to say, each root is to be cut into two, three, or more pieces, minding particularly that each piece be furnished with at least one or two good buds, which will be sufficient. Being thus prepared, they are to be planted in rows two feet and a half from each other, and about a foot in the row, and two inches deep.

As to the method of planting, it is frequently performed with a blunt ended dibble; but some plant them as they proceed in digging or plowing the ground, placing them in the trenches or furrows as they go on, and turning the earth from the next trench or furrow over them; and so on to the end.

Others dig or plough the ground; then draw drills with a hoe, about two or three inches deep; and so drop the set into the drills and cover them in.

But where people plant large quantities, the most expeditious way is to plow them in, by placing the potatoes in the furrows; miss two furrows, and plant one; but you must observe, that your ground must be in good order, clean, and free from weeds, &c.

Pages 42 and 43

TURNIPS

"Early in this month, sow turnips for a full crop--the best sort to sow now is the early Dutch. But I observe that few people sow turnips at this season; and the reason is, I have heard many say, that they will all go to seed. But the chief cause why they so frequently run to seed is, that it is greatly degenerated, by being sown too often in the same soil; but you will find that when your seed is fresh imported from Europe, not one in ten thousand will run.

Let this seed be sown in an open spot of ground moderately thin, and as even as possible--lay the ground out in beds from six to ten feet wide; and throw up alleys eighteen inches wide; let the earth that is taken out of the alleys be carefully thrown over the beds; and rake the ground as even as possible, standing in the alleys."

PP. 43 and 44

PLUMB AND CHERRY TREES

"Prune, plumb and cherry trees, at any time in this month, if not done before. In pruning plumb and cherry trees, either espaliers or standards; observe, that the same bearers remain many years in a fruitful state.--Let only any causual worn out wood, or any irregular crowded branches, and decayed parts be cut out, together with all the superfluous and ill placed young shoots of last summer.

But it must be observed, where a supply of young bearing wood is wanting in any part of these trees, that some of the best situated shoots of the last summer's growth must be left in every such place; these shoots are not to be .shortened, but each must be left at full length, without being reduced at any future pruning, in summer or winter, where there is room for them.

For the shoots, which are now left at full length, and not hereafter shortened, will, in the second or third year after, begin to produce some thick short shoots or spurs, about an inch or more in length; and upon these spurs, and on no other, the fruit of these trees is produced.

But on the contrary, if the shoots which are left in to bear were to be shortened as by many is ignorantly practiced, they would not, in that case, produce any such fruit-bearing spurs; but, in the places where the spurs or blossom-buds will otherwise appear, would send out numbers of strong and altogether useless shoots; with which the trees would be continually crowded; and not one branch would be in a condition to bear, so long as you keep shortening them: and the trees thus mismanaged would not produce one tenth part of the fruit as when treated in the method above mentioned.

Therefore be careful to leave the young shoots as they advance in full length, 81 without reducing them, unless you should perceive any irregular or superabundant ones which may require to be taken out, in which case they should be pruned away close to the mother branches.

This plainly shows, what method is to be taken, in pruning these trees, to bring them into a condition to bear; it also plainly shows, that neither the young shoots nor old branches are, in the general course of pruning, to be shortened.

But in the course of pruning the above trees, the branches in general should be well examined with a curious eye; and if there are any which are old or worn out, and not furnished with good bearing spurs, let such as are decayed, or in an unfruitful state, be taken out, to make room for the more proper bearing wood and for a supply of young shoots, in a regular manner.

When the old useless wood is cut out, examine the remaining branches, &c. And where these stand too close let some of them be cut away, observing to prune out the most unpromising and irregularly grown, and such as can be best spared; and let no two branches cross each other--and all the summer shoots' which are not wanted for a supply of wood, must be now cut away quite close, leaving no spurs but such as are naturally produced.

Let the shoots in general be left at equal distances, at the extremities; and always observe to leave the middle of the tree open, to admit a free circulation of air through the branches."

PP. 44-46

PEACHES, NECTARINES, AND APRICOTS

"If your peaches, nectarines and apricot trees were not pruned in the last months, let it be done in this; the sooner the better. [For the method see January.]"

P. 46

PRUNING OLD STANDARD FRUIT TREES

"Standard fruit trees, in the garden or orchard, may be pruned at any time in this month, where necessary: observing to cut from them all dead wood, and decayed worn out branches, that do not promise to bear good fruit, or that croud others.--Also where the trees assume a rambling or irregular growth, and the wood in general is much crowded. Let such be cut away in a regular manner, so that the principal branches may stand clear of each other.

If any old trees be infested with moss, which sometimes runs over the branches; let it now be cleared off, if not done before; for it will much injure both trees and fruit."

PP. 46 and 47

VINES

"The vines which were not pruned the former month, should be attended to as soon as possible in this,--If the business be delayed much longer, they will be apt to bleed after pruning; which will greatly injure the plants."

P. 47

RASBERRIES

"If your rasberries were not pruned, dressed, and planted in the last month, let this work be done early in this. [For the method see January.]"

P. 47

STRAWBERRIES

"The plantations of strawberries should be now cleaned, and have the spring dressing.First pull or cut off any remaining strings or runners from the plants, and clear the beds from weeds, litter &c. then loosen the ground between the plants, and earth them up: this will strengthen them, and make them flower strongly, and produce large well flavoured fruit.

Strawberries may be planted till the middle of this month; but the best season is about the latter end of September, or the beginning of October; for, in such case, they will bear fruit the summer after: indeed those planted now will take root freely but will not bear any fruit until the next year.--Observing that the proper sets for planting are the young offsets or runners of last summer; such as I advised to be left in May, which must be now procured from these beds of old plants that are in full perfection for bearing, taking them up with good roots, and not disturbing the old stools. Prepare for these plants a piece of good land, if loomy the better, and let some good rotten dung if you can procure it, be dug in. Divide the ground into beds four feet wide, with alleys at least eighteen inches. Plant four rows on each bed, and let them be about ten inches or a foot distant from each other in the row."

PP. 47 and 48

PLANTING FRUIT TREES

"Fruit trees, of all sorts, may be planted and time in this month.

Let every kind be planted at proper distances, so that they may have room to grow, without interfering with each other; which, in a few years, is often the case in many gardens and orchards.

Peaches and nectarines should never be planted less than twenty-five feet distant from each other; and if you plant them thirty, it would be a more eligible plan; tho' the distance appears considerable at first, yet, if trees are grafted or budded upon free growing stocks, they will readily fill up that place; and bear much better than if confined, so as to require to be often cut back, and kept within bounds.

Standard apple and pear trees, when planted in an orchard, should be at least thirty feet distant from each other; and if the land is rich and strong, if they had forty it would be the better.

The rule, I advise, to plant standard fruit trees in general is, to allow apple and fruit trees in an orchard, from thirty to forty feet distance, every way; peaches, nectarines and apricots, from twenty-five to thirty feet distance; cherries and plumb from eighteen to twenty-five; almonds, quinces and medlars, from sixteen to twenty. Observing, that these are the least distances that should be allowed; but where there is a good scope of ground, you may allow them five, ten, or even twenty feet more room for in the end, it will prove to be of greater advantage, when the trees arrive at their full growth.

In planting trees of any kind, let care be taken that they are not planted too deep; for that is a more material point than many people imagine.

Open for each tree a hole, wide enough to receive the roots freely, without pressing them against the sides; then, having the trees ready dug up with good spreading roots, which you must take care not to injure in the operation, let the ends of the straggling ones be pruned; and cut off all such as are broken or bruised: then set the tree in the hole, and see that all the roots spread freely as they should do, so as the upper roots be rather over than below the general surface of the ground.--Break the earth well, and throw it in equally about the roots; and in so doing shake the tree gently, that the earth may fall in close between the roots and fibres.

When the earth is all in, tread the surface gently, to fix the tree properly; and lastly raise a small concave hill around the tree.

Support new planted trees with stakes, as soon as they are planted; that they may not be rocked about by the wind, which will greatly retard their taking root."

PP. 48-50

FIG TREES

"About the middle of this month prune your fig trees.

In the first place observe to cut away or grub up all the suckers at the stock of the trees; which otherwise would require much nourishment to support them, and weaken the mother plants; when this is done you must prune out all dead, decayed and crowded wood; and where any large branch grows in a rambling manner across the others, let it be also taken out.

Where the branches stand too close, so as not to admit a free circulation of air through the tree, let some of these be also cut away.--The keeping the trees thin, and taking away all irregular and old worn out branches, is the only way to have large and well tasted fruit, and also handsome and lasting trees.

The young branches of fig trees must not be shortened, but left at their full length; for by shortening them you will only cut away the fruit that would have appeared, but also, occasion them to run much to wood, and thereby never to produce half a crop of fruit."

PP. 50 and 51

HEADING DOWN YOUNG TREES

"In heading down those trees, it is to be supposed that they were budded or grafted a year or two before, and have been trimmed up to a small head about the height of three or four feet, containing four or five small shoots, and an upright middle one.--Cut the middle one down close, leaving four or five of the shoots; thus done, shorten the remaining ones within six or seven eyes from the main stem, if the tree is in a strong and vigorous state; but if the tree is weak, the shoots may be shortened to three or four eyes:, by your shortening the branches above, it contributes much to the growth of the trees the next summer."

PP. 51 and 52

March

BEANS

"You may still continue to plant more beans to succeed those sown in the former months, where a constant succession of young ones are required.

The long podded bean is a proper kind to plant at this season, it being a remarkable great bearer, excellent when young, and is very profitable for the use of a family.--They may be planted at any time in this month, allowing them the distance of three feet between each row, and about six inches in the rows.

The Windsor and Sandwich beans, or any other of the large kinds may yet be planted--let these be planted at this season in rows about five feet asunder.--Let some earth be drawn up to the stems of such beans as are advanced four or five inches high, which will greatly promote their growth."

PP. 53 and 54

PEAS

"Sow peas to succeed those sown in the former month: where a constant supply is required, there should be some sown at least every fortnight or three weeks.

The marrowfat and Spanish morotto, being of the large kind, are both fine eating peas, and great bearers, and are also proper to be sown at this season--likewise, the rouncival is a very fine large pea for a late crop; and if sown at any time this month; will succeed very well. These large kind of peas should be sown in drills or trenches not less than five feet asunder. The hotspur, or any other small peas are also proper to be sown now, if required.

Draw earth to such peas as are come up, and advanced to the height of two or three inches; it will strengthen the plants, and greatly forward their growth.

Set sticks to peas when you intend them for to climb up; this should be done in due time, when the plants are about four or five inches high; observe to have sticks of a proper heighth: for marrowfats and other large peas, they should be six or seven feet high; but those of four or five feet will be quite sufficient for the hotspurs, and other sorts of small peas."

P. 54

CABBAGES

"Now transplant, if not done in February; all the cabbage plants that are remaining in their winter beds, or as many as you intend to plant out for a spring crop: this should be done the beginning of the month; and if the weather proves dry, give your plants now and then a little water till they have taken good root.

Draw up earth about the stems of forward cabbage plants, as it will greatly strengthen them and encourage their growth.

If the weather about this time should prove dry, you should frequently give your young cabbage plants a little water, observing to do it early in the morning."

P. 55

SNAP OR BUSH BEANS

"About the latter end of this month, plant snap beans, in a dry and warm situation.

The best sorts to plant for a first crop are the small negro, and also the white and yellow dwarfs; they are exceeding good bearers, and will come very early.

These beans should be planted in rows, about two feet from each other, and, at this season, about three inches distant from each other in the rows."

P. 55

ONIONS AND LEEKS

"Where onions and leeks were not sown the last month, this work should be done early in this.--You may either sow them in the broad cast, or in trenches, about nine or ten inches from each other, on beds about four feet wide.

The onions and leeks sown last month will be now above ground; let them be hoed as soon as you can properly distinguish the rows:--for nothing will promote the growth of onions and leeks so much as frequent hoeings.

Let your transplanted onions be often hoed, and the earth kept always loose between them; which will greatly promote their growth."

PP. 55 and 56

TURNIPS

"If you have not yet sown any turnips, let this business be no longer delayed. [For the method see February.]

Those turnips which were sown the beginning of last month, should be now hoed, and properly thinned, leaving the strongest plants from six to eight inches distant from each other; but if they were sown in drills nine or ten inches apart, they should be also thinned to about six or eight.--[For particulars of hoeing turnips see August.]"

P. 56

IRISH POTATOES

"Potatoes may be yet planted, but the sooner the better--plant them about two feet and half asunder.

Those planted in the beginning of last month, will be now above the ground; they should have some earth drawn up close to them--it will protect them from the frost, and cold winds, and greatly promote their growth."

PP. 56 and 57

CARROTS AND PARSNIPS

"If you have not sowed any carrots or parsnips last month, let some be sown the beginning of this.

If you do not sow at this season the true orange carrot, the greatest part will run to seed before they arrive to any degree of perfection: but if you can procure good seed imported from Europe, and if your land is good, and you follow the directions of last month, you need not fear of having a fine crop of carrots and parsnips.:--However, where a supply of young carrots or parsnips are required, they ought to be sown almost every month."

P. 57

RADISHES

"Thin the general crops of radishes where they are too thick--you may begin to draw them before they become quite so large as a goose quill, which will make room for the other plants to grow more freely; observe to keep the crop clear from weeds.

Radish seed, both the short top and salmon, should be sown at two different times in this month; by which means a constant supply of young radishes may be obtained; allowing about fifteen or sixteen days between each sowing; choosing at this time, an open situation for your seed;--sow it evenly on the surface, and rake it well in; the plants will make their appearance in a few days, at this season.

The crops of early radishes should in dry weather be frequently watered; this will occasion their swelling freely, and prevent their growing hot and sticky.

Where turnip-rooted radishes, or small round radishes are required, the seed may be sown at any time in this month.--It should be sown in an open spot; and when the plants begin to shew their rough leaves, if they are too thick, they should be thinned to about an inch distance to make room for the remaining plants to grow.

The black and white Spanish radish may also be sown at any time in this month."

PP. 57 and 58

LETTUCES

"About the beginning, or at any time in this month, transplant lettuces of all kinds, where they stand too close; both those of the winter standing, and such as were sown in January, or early in last month.

Choose a good spot of ground for these plants; and if moderately dunged, it will prove beneficial to their growth: dig the ground regularly one spade deep, and rake the surface smooth; then plant the lettuces on beds, about four or four feet and a half wide, divide the beds into four rows, and place your plants about 12 inches from each other in the rows: if the weather be dry, water them immediately after planting. and frequently repeat it till they have taken good root.

Coss, cabbage, Silesia, and brown Dutch lettuce, or any other sort may be sown at any time in this month--dig a spot of rich ground for them, in an open situation; sow the seed equally, but not too thick; rake it in lightly: repeat the sowing once a fortnight or three weeks, that there may be a regular succession."

PP. 58 and 59

SMALL SALLADING

"Sow small sallading at least once a fortnight, such as mustard, cresses, rape, &c.

Draw some flat shallow drills for these seeds, where the ground is rich and light; sow thereon each kind separate, and cover them lightly with earth.

Water them moderately, if the weather be dry; as it will greatly promote their growth.

If the sallading be attacked with a hoary morning frost, water it off before the sun comes on it; as it will prevent its becoming black and being spotted."

P. 59

PARSLEY

"If you sowed no parsley seed in the last month, do it early in this; the curled sort is best esteemed, it being most proper to garnish dishes, and equally fit for the kitchen service."

P. 59

TOMATOES

"About the middle, or towards the latter end of this month, sow tomatoes.

This seed should be sown at this season in a warm situation, and in a light rich soil; it may be sown either in drills, or in the broad cast, or else dotted into the earth about three or four inches asunder, and a quarter of an inch deep."

PP. 59 and 60

WATER AND MUSK MELONS

"About the middle of this month, you may sow water and musk melons, for the first crop; the culture of these is so well known, that it needs but little description. I would only recommend it to those who plant melons at this season, to raise hills of good light rich earth, from eight inches to a foot above the surface of the ground; and let the hills be from fourteen to eighteen inches broad on the top, and let about six or seven seeds be placed in each, about half an inch deep."

P. 60

CUCUMBERS

"Sow cucumbers, for a first crop, about the middle of this month; chuse a warm and sheltered situation, raising hills and managing them in every respect as you would do your melons.--[For the further method of raising them see April.]"

PP. 60 and 61

SQUASHES AND PUMPKINS

"These may be planted about the middle of this month, for the first crop; if they succeed, they will come in early.--[For the method see next month.]"

P. 61

RED BEETS

"The beets that were sown in the last month should be now carefully thinned, leaving only one plant in the place where they were sown, and let the earth be constantly kept loose; which will greatly strengthen the plants.

Red beets ought by no means to be transplanted; for if the tap root is once broken, it will put out many fibres, and will be very short and unseemly."

P. 61

CELERY

"About the middle of this month, sow celery for a first crop--prepare a spot of rich ground for this purpose, and as much in the shade as possible, but not under trees; and if it be moist it is all the better.--Sow the seed pretty thick, and either rake it in lightly, or otherwise cover it over near a quarter of an inch with fine earth; and, in dry weather, give frequent moderate waterings, both before and after the seed comes up."

PP. 61 and 62

SPINAGE

"Sow spinage where required, it will yet succeed, and may be sown any time in this month.--Where a constant supply of this plant is wanted, you should sow some at least every three weeks; observing the round leafed is still the best sort for this season, which may be sown either in the broad cast and raked in, or in shallow drills.

Hoe the spinage that was sown in the former month, and thin the plants out to three or four inches distance."

P. 62

ASPARAGUS

"Fork or dress your asparagus beds, if not yet done; let these be finished the first week in this month, for the buds are now in great forwardness.--Rake the bed smooth immediately after they are forked.

Asparagus may yet be planted, it will now take root freely; but let this work be finished by the middle of the month, for the plants will not succeed well if planted later.--Let the same method be observed as mentioned in the former months.

Sow Asparagus seed, if omitted last month, in order to raise plants for a new plantation the next year, if required."

PP. 62 and 63

ARTICHOKES

"Where artichokes were not dressed and slipped last month, they should be now attended to; for they will have made their spring shoots, which will be up some height above the ground; let the same method be observed in dressing them as directed in February.

Plant artichokes were wanted: they will yet succeed; and may bear in the summer, provided you plant them soon in this month.

Choose a piece of good ground for these plants, in an open situation, and lay some good rotten dung thereon and dig it in a proper depth--let the plants be set in rows five feet asunder, and plant them not less than five feet in the rows, giving them a good watering."

P. 63

FIG TREES

"About the beginning of this month plant fig trees, if not done in February; this being a good season for removing them--they will now take root in a short time.

These trees should be planted, from twenty to twenty five feet from each other; for nothing adds more to the flavor of the fruit than a free circulation of air and the admission of the sun between the trees and branches.

When you plant them examine the plants well; and rub off all the buds that are likely to break within two feet of the ground; and in particular under the surface of the earth--for they are very apt to throw out suckers, which, if not taken away in due time, will greatly retard the growth of the young trees."

P. 64

PEACH, NECTARINE, AND APRICOT TREES

"Where peach, nectarine, and apricot trees remain unpruned, let them be finished the first week in this month at the furthest--for, if the spring is forward, these trees are sometimes in full bloom at this time; when it will do them more hurt than good to prune them in such state--and the work might have been much better done in the former months.

In pruning these trees, let the same methods be observed as directed in February but as the buds are now swelled it will require the greater caution.

Finish pruning of apples, pears, plumbs, and cherries, and all other fruit trees it should not at any rate be delayed longer than the first week in this month."

PP. 64 and 65

PLANTING FRUIT TREES

"If you have been hitherto dilatory, fruit trees may yet be planted with some hopes of success, but the sooner the better; if the weather be moist, the trees which are planted now will take root in a short time, and, with the assistance of a little water in dry weather, will shoot freely.

In planting fruit trees, either espaliers or standards, observe to plant each kind at the distances mentioned under the head in the month of February."

P. 65

STRAWBERRIES

"The strawberry beds, which were not dressed in the last month, ought to be attended to as soon as possible in this; the plants will now begin to push apace, and the sooner this work is done the better.

Clear the beds from weeds, and the plants from strings, and other litter, and if the main plants are crouded with young ones, from last year's runners, let them be thinned accordingly; for it is the best method to keep those plants in single bunches, and clear of each other, so that there may be room to dig round them with a narrow spade or trowel.--The beds being cleared from litter, &c. loosen the earth between the plants, and let rich earth, or well rotted dung be put in between them; as it will be the means of strengthening the plants, and cause them to flower strong, and produce large and good fruit.

Strawberries may now be planted, where required--observe the same method as mentioned in October.

It seems to be a common method in Carolina to burn the dead leaves, and runners of strawberries in the spring; I am much against such practice; for by burning the dead leaves and runners, you often injure the plants likewise."

PP. 65 and 66

April

BEANS

"In the country, you may yet venture to plant beans the beginning of this month, for the last crop.

The Windsor and the long podded beans are the best sort to plant at this season; the former should be planted in rows about four feet distant from each other, and six or eight inches in the row; and the latter, about three feet, and five or six inches from each other in the rows.

Hoe between the rows of beans that are already up, and draw earth about their stems.

Observe to top such beans as are in full blossom; it will promote the setting of the pods. [See February].

PEAS

"Sow some peas, in order to have a regular supply from the beginning of this month; let this be your last crop; indeed there is no great prospect of success even from this; but where young peas are required, and you have plenty of garden room in the country, you may try to get some peas to come in for use about June; tho' it is seldom you see any in Charleston market after May that are good.

The best sort to sow at this season is the marrowfat, green and white rouncevil, being fine large sorts; likewise any of the hotspur kinds may be sown now, and will sometimes produce a good crop.

The larger kinds ought to be planted five feet from row to row, and the hotspur four feet at least.

Let the earth be now drawn up to the stems of such peas as are now above ground, and keep them clear from weeds; for by this means their growth will be greatly promoted.

Stick such peas as are advanced to the height of five inches; let it not be delayed too long, for if they are once beat down by the winds and rain, it will be troublesome to stick them at all, and they will not readily rise again.

Let hotspurs have sticks about three feet and a half, or four feet high; and larger sorts sticks of about six feet."

P. 68

CABBAGES

"By the beginning of this month your spring sown cabbage plants will be fit to remove to the beds where you intend them to cabbage.

Plant out the early York and sugar loaf, for they will be the first that will produce hard heads: they should be also the first made use of, as they will not stand the heat so well as the larger kind of cabbages.

These plants should be planted in a square of well dunged land, at about two feet from row to row, and two feet from each other in the row.

Next plant the battersea and drumhead cabbages; allow them two feet and a half from row to row, and two feet in the row.

Let the cabbage plants, which were set out in February and March, have frequent hoeings, and draw up earth to the stems of them.

About the middle, or latter end of this month, sow large late cabbages and savoys for a general autumn crop.--These seeds should be sown in an open and airy situation, in beds about four feet wide; the seed ought not to be sown very thick, nor yet too thin, but moderately and evenly scattered.

The plants which are sown now will be fit to plant out in June."

P. 69

CAULIFLOWERS AND BROCOLI

"Sow your first crop of cauliflowers and brocoli, at the same time, and much in the same manner as you do cabbage plants. If you sow them early, they will be able to stand the sun in the summer much better than those sown in June."

PP. 69 and 70

SNAP OR BUSH BEANS

"Now plant full crops of all kinds of snap and bush beans, to succeed those sown in the last month.

Any of the dwarf kind may be now planted; but the most profitable are the white, black, and yellow, which are all early kinds, great bearers, and exceeding good for kitchen use.

There are three or four other kinds more late, but very great bearers; they are the black speckled, red speckled, large white, and the cream coloured dwarfs. The early and the late sorts may be planted at the same time in this month, and they will succeed each other in bearing.

The method of planting them is this.--Dig a square of ground, in an open situation; and if you can give a moderate dunging, the better.

Your ground being dug, rake it even; and take away the stones if any; then with a small hoe draw drills about twenty inches or two feet from each other, and one inch deep; then drop the beans into the bottom of the drills six inches apart; cover them over with your hoe, and rake the ground smooth.

Let it be observed, that both the early and late sorts are to be planted in the same manner; only allow the large kinds a little more room from row to row, and likewise in the rows.

The white running snap bean is in the highest esteem in Europe; where few families use dwarfs after these come in.--They are great bearers, and a fine delicious vegetable if gathered while young. I have known them to thrive exceeding well in this state, and am much surprized to see them taken so little notice of; for they will bear when the dwarfs will not--I have seen them in full bearing in July and August.

These beans should be planted in rows about six feet from each other, and from four to six inches in the rows, and in drills about an inch deep, as was before observed."

PP. 70 and 71

CARROTS AND PARSNIPS

"Your early carrots and parsnips will be now advancing fast in their growth, and they should be properly encouraged:--Clear them from weeds, and thin the plants out to their due distances.

This work may be either done with the hand or hoe; but those who can use the small hoe will find it to be the most expeditious method of cleaning and thining the plants: and besides, by loosening the ground with the hoe, it will in a great manner promote their growth.

However, at any rate, let the plants be thined out properly, so that they may have full liberty to grow at the top, and to swell at the bottom. Thin out therefore the general crops to about seven or eight inches at least, and cut up all the weeds, for there is nothing like allowing these plants plenty of room; by which means, if the ground be good, the roots will become long and strait.

The parsnips in particular should be thined out to twelve inches distance; then the roots will swell to a considerable size, and attain their utmost perfection.

Such crops of carrots however, as are intended to be drawn for the table when young, need not to be thined at first, to more than four or five inches apart; for, by the gradual thining out the larger, for use, the rest will increase in their growth daily.

But the main crops of carrots, that you intend to grow to full size, should be thined properly at once; you should in this case allow them full eight or nine inches at least; but if they were placed from ten to twelve inches asunder, it would be better.

PP. 71 and 72

SOWING CARROTS AND PARSNIPS

"About the latter end of this month, sow carrots and parsnips for a general winter crop.

Various are the opinions about sowing these roots for winter use; therefore I think it incumbent on me to let no observation escape that may add to the culture of these valuable vegetables.

In England the culture of carrots has arrived to such perfection, that for my own credit I refrain from relating real facts; for I am sure, not one in a thousand would believe me.

It seems to be the general opinion of most people, that if they sow their winter crops of carrots before June, they will run all to seed; but those ideas are entirely erroneous; for success depends chiefly on the kind of seed.--If it be true orange carrot, it will not run;--but if the seed sown in March or April, be of the pale degenerated sort, they will run to seed by September; or, as the gardeners express it, they will all be speared to a plant; while the produce of the true genuine seed imported from Europe, will be in its full vigor. Besides, it is a very hard matter to get the carrot seed to grow in June, that month often proving dry, and the weather very hot; therefore people who have occasion to sow large crops of carrots for the winter use, should take every precaution to keep the ground as dry as possible.

Let it be laid out in beds about four feet or four feet and half wide; observing to lay the beds always on the descent, and not to confine the alleys, but let them be full fifteen inches wide, and not less than six inches deep; by which means you will be able to draw off the water; for if it is suffered to lay on the beds or 97 even in the alleys, the intense heat of the sun in July and August, will scald the roots and rot them.

Having laid out the ground into beds, let the surface be raked smooth; then draw four drills on each bed at equal distances, about half an inch deep; and scatter the seeds thin in each drill; cover the seed with your hoe; and rake the ground even standing in the alleys."

PP. 72 and 73

ONIONS AND LEEKS

"The onions that were transplanted in the autumn will now begin to swell, and many of them will begin to put forth seed heads;--let those be pulled out as soon as then appear; for if they are suffered to stay long on the plants they will not only deform the roots, but will also draw from them great part of the nourishment; therefore let them be taken out as soon as they appear.

The onions sown in February will be now advancing fast in their growth; let them be thined out to their proper distances; and leave them in the row about eight inches from each other, and loosen the ground between and round the plants, which will greatly forward the growth both of onions and leeks."

P. 74

SOWING LEEKS

"About the latter end of this month sow leeks for winter use.

These may be sown in a small bed of good earth, pretty thick, from whence you may transplant them as soon as they are fit."

P. 74

TURNIPS

"Hoe and thin the turnips that were sown in the last months; cut up all the weeds and thin the plants regularly; allow eight or nine inches between plant and plant; if sown broad cast.

This work of thining should always be performed when the rough leaves are about the size of a shilling."

PP. 74 and 75

ASPARAGUS

"Asparagus, you will be now cutting for use; in cutting the buds, or shoots of these plants, it should be observed that, when they are arrived to about three or four inches in height they should be gathered.--But if these five or six inches high, or in prime order, when permitted to run any higher, the top of the bud opens, and the shoot does not eat so well as those that are cut when the head is quite close.

When you cut them, be careful to thrust your knife down close by the side of the shoot you intend to cut, least you wound, or destroy any of the buds that are coming up, and do not yet appear, cutting the young shoots off about three or four inches under the ground.

Let the beds of these plants be now cleared of weeds, which will come up very thick among them.

Taking therefore an opportunity of a dry day, and with a small hoe cut up all the weeds clean within the surface, and they will soon die."

P. 75

IRISH POTATOES

"Potatoes will be now coming forward, and should frequently be hoed, which will keep them clean of weeds.

Continue still to draw more earth up to the stems of your potatoes, which will be of great service to them."

PP. 75 and 76

RADISHES

"Sow more radishes; the salmon kind is very proper for this sowing; and likewise the short top and turnip.--Choose an open situation for sowing these seeds; and let your ground be dug well, and divided into beds about four feet wide; sow the seeds (but not too thick at this season) cast a little earth over the beds, and rake the surface even, standing in the alleys.

It will be proper to sow radishes at two or three different times in this month, to continue a succession.

In dry weather let your radishes be frequently watered both before and after they are up, which will prevent their growing hot and sticky."

P. 76

LETTUCES

"In moist weather transplant lettuces of various kinds, that were sown in the last month.

Choose a rich spot of land for these plants, in a free and open situation; such as is not crowded with trees, &c. which will draw the plants up slender, without forming good heads.

Dig the ground neatly, and throw it up into beds about four feet wide; rake the surface smooth, and plant four rows on each bed, about nine inches from each other in the rows.

If the weather be dry, give them frequently a little water till they have taken good root.

Sow lettuce this month, to succeed the last month's sowing; and where a constant supply of lettuce is required, this should be sown at least twice in April.

The best kinds to sow now are, the Silesia, cabbage, and brown Dutch: the coss lettuces are very apt when sown at this season to run to seed before they arrive to any degree of perfection.

Sow these seeds in an open situation, very thin, for it is designed that they should remain where they were sown, till they are fit for use. Let it be observed, that they will not run to seed as soon as if they were to be transplanted, and will make much larger and finer heads.

Let those seeds be sown in beds about four feet wide, and throw up good bold alleys; and you may also sow a sprinkling of radishes amongst the lettuce; observe not to sow them too thick.

If the weather prove dry let the seed be watered both before and after they are up."

PP. 76 and 77

100

SMALL SALLADING

"You may still continue to sow mustard, cresses, radish, rape, &c. if they are required.

Where a constant supply of these small herbs are wanted, there should be some sown every week."

P. 77

CELERY

"About the beginning, or at any time in this month, you may sow celery for a general crop.

Dig a small piece of light, rich earth, and lay the surface even, and throw it up into beds; then sow the seeds pretty thick, and rake it as light as possible, with an even hand.

If the weather should prove dry, let the seeds have a little water both before and after they are come up."

P. 78

MINT

"Mint may be also planted now, where new beds are wanted.

The sets proper for this purpose are, the young plants which come up from the old ones, as observed in the former months--they should be planted in a spot of rich ground, after being dug, and divided into beds about four feet wide, and set five rows of plants on each bed, about eight inches from each other in the rows, and give them a good watering to settle the earth about their roots."

P. 78

101

CUCUMBERS AND MELLONS

"Sow cucumbers and melons, about the beginning of this month, for a full crop. For this purpose, choose a piece of good ground in a sheltered situation; and if you can procure any good rotten dung, put about half a wheel-barrow full to each hill, and cover it over with rich earth, about six inches deep, and plant thereon about six or seven seeds."

PP. 78 and 79

SQUASHES AND PUMKINS

"Sow also, about the beginning of this month, squashes and pumkins; for there is now a fair prospect of their succeeding: let them be sown or planted in the same manner as cucumbers, &c."

P. 79

THINING BEETS

"The beets that were sown in February, will require thining early in this month, if not done before.

Let all the small plants be taken away, and leave the strong ones about a foot from each other, in the rows--then, with a hoe loosen the earth between them, and about the plants that remain; which will greatly forward their growth."

PP. 79 and 80

102

DESTROY WEEDS

"Weeds will now begin to appear plentifully from seeds, in every part of the garden; and the utmost diligence should be used to destroy them while young, before they get a head of the crops.

Pay particular regard to your onions, carrots, parsnips, lettuce, spinage, and the like; for the weeds grow much quicker than they do; and if they are not weeded, or hoed in time, the weeds will soon over top the plants, and occasion much trouble to clear them.

Those who are expert in using the small hoe, where seeds are sown, either broad cast or in drills, will dispatch more work in one day, than six will do at hand weeding in the same time.

Take the opportunity of dry weather, and hoe ground between the beans, pease, cabbages, and other crops that stand wide, to destroy the weeds, and take care to tread the ground as little as possible.

A large piece of ground may soon be got over with a hoe, when the weeds are small; but when they are permitted to grow large, it requires much labour to destroy them."

P. 80

VINES

"Vines should be looked over about the middle of this month--they will by this time have made some shoots; and the useless ones should be displaced.

In looking over vines, observe, at this time to displace only such shoots as appear absolutely useless.--There generally arises many young shoots from the old wood, and younger branches; but these seldom produce grapes, or wood proper to bear fruit: therefore, let most of these shoots be rubbed off close, except in such places where young wood will be wanted next year, which should be strictly attended to; and leave for the present, all the shoots that are produced from the last year's wood.

But where two shoots put out from one eye, which often happens, let the most unlikely be taken away; for if they were both suffered to remain, one would starve the other, and the fruit of neither will be good.

Let it be observed, that this dressing, or displacing of useless shoots, at this early time, may be performed with the finger and thumb, rubbing them off quite close.

The useless shoots being cleared away, the useful ones when of due length, should be trained along the frame, so that each may enjoy the advantage of the sun and air, to promote its growth, together with that of the fruit.

By the above early regulating the grape vines, the bunches of grapes will be large and fine, and will ripen more regularly and sooner than when the vines are suffered to run into confusion before they are looked over;--besides by timely looking over the vines, one may do as much work in one hour, as in six, when the shoots are suffered to run and mix in a confused and irregular manner."

PP. 81 and 82

103

STRAWBERRY BEDS

"Both the old and new beds of strawberries, should be kept free from weeds; and the runners produced from these plants, should be constantly taken off as they come forth; but where new plantations of strawberries are required, some of the best runners may be suffered to remain till September, to form young plants--observe always, to stop the runners soon after forming the first plants; and these are to be planted out in the autumn as there directed.

About the beginning of this month, let the strawberry beds now in fruit, be frequently watered in dry weather, for they will require it. If they are not well supplied with water in a dry time, the fruit will be small and ill tasted, and there will be also but a thin crop."

P. 82

WATERING NEW PLANTED TREES

"New planted trees, both standards and dwarfs, should, in dry weather, be well watered at the roots about once a week--it will also be of service to water the branches now and then in dry weather, which frequently happens in this and the two following months."

P. 83

May

SNAP BEANS

"Snap beans may be planted at any time in this month; but to have a constant supply they ought to be planted every week.

Choose a peice of good ground in an open situation for them at this season; and if the ground is dry, you may soak the seed about six or eight hours in soft water before you plant them.

Having dug your ground, proceed to draw drills, as advised in the former month; then drop the beans in the drills or trenches, about five of six inches distant from each other; cover them up with your hoe, and rake the ground smooth.--[For further information see last month.]

Let some earth be now drawn up to the stem of such snap or bush beans as require it; which will strengthen them greatly."

PP. 84 and 85

104

CABBAGES AND SAVOYS

"If your general crop of cabbage plants, for the autumn and winter use, were not sown last month, let them be sown early in this, that they may have time to get strength before the hot weather comes in: for I find, by experience, that people in general seldom sow their cabbage plants before June, and often not till July. If they are not sown before June, the seeds frequently lie in the ground till the sun destroys them; for June commonly proves the dryest month in the year; and we have often very heavy rains in July that cripple the plants before they get strength. --These and a number of other reasons may be added in favor of April and May, for sowing winter cabbages.

Let your cabbage plants, which are put out, have frequent hoeings; and draw earth to the stems of those that require it."

P. 85

CAULIFLOWERS AND BROCOLI

"About the beginning or the middle of this month, if not sown in the last, sow your cauliflower and brocoli seed, for a full crop.

Prepare a small peice of land in an open situation for these seeds; dig the ground, and lay it even; throw it up into beds, and sow your seeds, but not too thick; and cover them over with a little earth, and rake the ground smooth, for it is proposed, that these plants should grow to a good size before they are put out for good."

PP. 85 and 86

CARROTS AND PARSNIPS

"If your general crop of carrots and parsnips for autumn and winter use, were not sown last month, let them be sown early in this, the sooner the better; for if they are sown the latter end of the month, when the dry weather generally sets in, you must be constantly watering the ground to get them up, and they will acquire but little strength before the hot weather comes on, and are liable to be scalded after every mid-day's shower of rain.--[For the work see April.]"

P. 86

105

LETTUCES

"Sow Silesia, brown Dutch, and cabbage lettuce.

Sow the seed in this season where they are to stand for use, in the most low and shady part of the garden, but not under trees.

It is of little use to transplant lettuces at any time in this month; for by so doing they will run to seed, and arrive to no degree of perfection."

P. 86

SMALL SALLADING

"Sow small sallading at least once a week; such as mustard, cress, rape, &c.-Draw some drills about four inches from each other, and sow the seeds pretty thick, and throw a little earth over them; rake it smooth, and let the ground be watered as soon as the seeds are sown, if the weather be dry."

PP. 86 and 87

RADISHES

"Sow salmon and turnip radishes, at any time in this month; and where a constant supply of these roots are required, the seed should be sown once a week or fortnight.--Sow it at this season, in an open situation, and not too thick; for the tops of the salmon radishes in this month, will grow to a large size before the roots are fit to draw.--A small sprinkling of lettuce may be sown with the radishes; for when the latter comes off, the former will succeed them."

P. 87

106

SPINAGE

"You may yet continue to sow spinage seed, where required.

Prepare a piece of good ground in an open situation; and throw it up into beds about four feet wide: you may either sow the spinage seed in broad cast, or in drills; and were you to sow a sprinkling of radishes with the spinage, it would not be amiss."

P. 87

CELERY

"You may sow more celery about the beginning of this month, for a late crop.

Choose a small peice of low ground, in a shady situation, for sowing this seed now;--let it be sown pretty thick; and water it in dry weather before and after it comes up.

The celery plants that were sown in March, will be fit to prick out towards the middle of this month, into a nursery bed of light, rich earth.

For this purpose, prepare a spot of good ground, and divide it into beds about three or four feet wide; rake the surface smooth; then thin out a quantity of the best plants from the seed bed, and let them be planted on these, about three inches separate from each other; give them a moderate watering, and repeat it every day in dry weather, till they have taken good root.

The plants should remain in these beds till the middle of July; when they may be planted out for good, in trenches."

PP. 87 and 88

CUCUMBERS, MELONS, SQUASHES, &c.

"At any time in this month, you may sow a successional crop of cucumbers, melons, squashes, &c.

The seeds at this season, should be sown in an open situation; and if the weather proves dry, give them a little water before they come up; and the plants should be frequently watered in dry weather, after they are up."

P. 88

107

PEPPERS AND TOMATOES

"The peppers and tomatoes that were sown the beginning of last month, will be by the middle of this, fit to plant out, where they are to stand for good.

For this purpose, choose a piece of good ground in a free and open situation; draw the earth up in a small ridge, and plant the peppers in rows about two feet from each other, and from twelve to eighteen inches in the rows.

The tomatoes should be planted in hills about five feet from each other, and three plants on each hill."

P. 89

BEETS

"If your beets for winter use, were not sown in last month, let it be done early in this; that they may get strength before the hot weather comes in.--[For the method see February.]"

P. 89

GATHER SWEET AND POT HERBS

"Towards the later end of this month, gather mint, balm, sage, thyme, hysop, savory, &c. for drying: provided the plants are nearly at their full growth.

Gather also all such physical herbs as are now in flower.

The latter should be always gathered when they begin to flower; for they are then in their greatest perfection, and much the best for their several purposes; nor should they be gathered before that period.

They must be cut in a dry day, and immediately spread or hung up in a dry room, out of the reach of the sun, where they may dry gently--Never lay those herbs in the sun to dry, for that would exhaust them too much, and render them useless."

PP. 89 and 90

108

DESTROYING WEEDS

"Now let more than common pains be taken to destroy weeds among crops of every kind, and in every part throughout the garden.

There is no work in the kitchen garden that requires more attention than this: for weeds are at no time more dangerous to crops than at the present: it should be therefore the principal care of the gardener to destroy them before they grow large; for weeds, when permitted to get to much size, not only exhaust the goodness of the land, and ruin the present crops, but are also a very disagreeable sight, and require more than double labour to clear the ground of them.

Let the utmost attention be paid to your small crops that grow pretty close; and let them be timely cleared.

That is, let the weeds be cleared away and not suffered to over-spread the plants which they would soon do when they begin to run, and in this case would do much damage to the crops.

Besides, when the weeds are suffered to grow large among the small crops, so as to mix and entangle one with another, and with the plants, it renders the work of hoeing or weeding them extremely tedious, and very troublesome to perform.

But when weeds appear between the rows of beans, pease, cabbages, and such crops as stand in wide rows, nothing can be more easy than to stop their progress; because, there is room between the plants to admit a large hoe--and with such an instrument a person may go over a large piece of ground in a little time; therefore he who would suffer seeds to grow among such crops will be much to blame."

PP. 90 and 91

WATERING NEW PLANTED CROPS

"Watering, in dry weather, is now a very needful work, to all new transplanted crops; always apply it to such as are conveniently situated; and where the number of plants are not too great, so as to render the work over laborious and tedious; repeat the watering till the plants have taken good root.--A regular attention to this business will prove very beneficial, in accelerating the fresh rooting, and setting the plants off in a free growth from the beginning, which would otherwise be greatly checked or stinted."

PP. 91 and 92

109

THINNING PEACHES, NECTARINES, AND APRICOTS

"These trees, in favourable seasons, will set ten time as much fruit as their roots are capable of supplying with proper nourishment; and if the whole, or even too many of them were to be left, they would starve one another; and the fruit in general would be small and ill flavoured.

Besides, where this precaution is not observed and too great a quantity of these sorts of fruit remain to ripen on the trees, the ill consequence does not terminate altogether in the badness of the fruit that year, but it extends to two or three years to come.--For by suffering the trees to be over burdened with fruit, the branches are robbed of their due nourishment; and the trees are so much exhausted that they will not be able to produce shoots capable of bearing fruit the next, and perhaps subsequent year;--and it may probably be the third year before a crop of good fruit can be reasonably expected.

Therefore when the fruit is produced too thick upon the trees, and advanced to about the size of a nutmeg, or before; let the quantity be reduced;--and the sooner the work is done the better it is for the trees, and also for the fruit that is to remain on them.

This thinning should be performed in a very careful manner, by looking over the branches regularly one by one; and, before you take any off, single out, on each shoot the fruit that is proper to leave, and let the most promising and-best shapen remain:paying a due regard to those that are best situated on the branches:--each kind according to its size must be left at such proper distances, that every one may have sufficient room to swell and grow freely to its just bigness every way; and the fruit on the strong shoots should be left at least nine or ten inches from each other.-For instance allowing a tree is in good condition and strength for bearing;--and supposing the shoots to be of three different sizes; that is, the strong, the middling and the weak: the number of fruit to be on those branches are; upon the stronger, three or four of the fairest and best placed; upon the middling shoots two or three, and not more than one on the weak shoots.

Was a due regard to be paid to the above distances, and to the number of fruit mentioned to be left on the different branches; the thinning them nicely in this manner, will be the means of bringing your fruit to the utmost perfection.--At the time the trees will shoot freely, and produce a sufficient quantity of good wood to bear fruit the next year.

This should be the method of thinning the choice kinds of fruits; but the small and inferior sorts, may be left closer together, and a greater number of fruit may remain upon the different branches:--For instance, the early masculine apricot, the nutmeg peach, and the fair Child's early nectarine are of the earliest kinds, and by far the smallest; of these there may be left upon each of the strong shoots, about five fruit; and on the middle size three or four, and so in proportion on the weaker shoots."

PP. 92-94

110

SUMMER PRUNING PEACH, NECTARINE AND APRICOT TREES

"About the beginning of this month, you may look over your peach, nectarine and apricot trees--for they will now require your utmost care and attention.

Let these be gone over as quick as possible, while they are making their first shoots, and clear away all the useless ones; and at the same time let the well-placed and promising shoots be retained.

Likewise let all the luxuriant shoots that generally rise out of the old wood be taken away;--these will neither produce good fruit nor kindly wood, and will also greatly injure the growth of the prime shoots; they are always known by their rambling and vigorous growth: ans as I before observed, in treating of pruning in a former month, branches shooting out from the middle part of the tree should be all displaced, unless any should seem necessary in particular parts, to fill up a vacancy, or to furnish a supply of wood--but only some occasional shoots of these kinds should be left, and let all the others be cleared away quite close.

Notwithstanding, be careful to leave a full sufficiency of the best shoots, that are of a kind and moderate growth; that is, the shoots that are produced this summer, to bear fruit next year; therefore it is much the best way to reserve at this season a sufficient quantity of kindly growing shoots, that there may be enough to choose from in winter pruning.

Observe not to shorten any of the shoots thus left at this season; but let them remain at full length; for by topping them they will produce so many young shoots, as would crowd the fruit too much.

In the early summer dressing or pruning of these kinds of trees, it is also requisite to keep the middle part open to admit a free circulation of air among the branches; which will be very beneficial to the fruit; but, at the same-time, not to cut away too much, so as to leave the fruit altogether exposed to the sun.

The displacing of these young shoots at this season may be carefully performed with the finger and thumb; and the fruit may be thinned at the same time as before directed."

PP. 94 and 95

111

VINES

"The vines will now begin to shoot vigorously; and will produce a great number of shoots, many of which will be useless, and must now be cut away; and the sooner the better.

This work should be done before the shoots begin to entangle with each other;-for a great advantage attends this early dressing; both in giving an opportunity of performing the work with more expedition and regularity, and in affording a greater benefit to the trees and fruit.--Observe that all the immediate bearing shoots, which now discover the young bunches of grapes upon them, must be left,--and such other shoots as have strength, and are well situated for the purpose of throwing out bear e: next year, must be left in the places where they are wanted; but all weak and straggling shoots, such particularly as often arise immediately from the old wood are useless, and must be cleared away, wherever they are produced; except in such places where young wood is absolutely needful;--and even strong shoots that are destitute of fruit, and arise in places where they are not evidently wanted, should also be taken off.

When this is done, let all the bearing shoots, and all others that are necessary be left in their proper places, in regular order--and do not stop any of the shoots now, but let each be left at full length for the present, so that all the branches, and fruit, may equally enjoy the advantages of sun and air.

After this dressing, observe, that all shoots that put out in any part of the vines, must be constantly rubbed off as soon as they appear, and no small shoots must be suffered to remain, unless it be to fill a vacancy.

PP. 96 and 97

STOPPING THE YOUNG SHOOTS OF VINES TO PROMOTE THE GROWTH OF FRUIT

"About the beginning, middle, or any time in this month, when your vines are in full bloom, examine them carefully; and tie in all the shoots that you would have to bear fruit the next year;--you will likewise find a great number of fruit tearing shoots, which cannot be tied to the frame; let these also be minutely examined; and you will see some of them with one or two, and others with three branches of young grapes on them; let the tops of these shoots be taken off near the fruit; and where any small ones appear on the branches let these be entirely taken away.--Stopping the shoots in this manner will not only forward, but also greatly promote the growth of the fruit."

P. 97

FIG TREES

"In the beginning, or at any time in this month, when you perceive suckers coming out from the bottom of your fig trees, let them be taken away as soon as they appear, least they rob both the shoots and fruit of their due nourishment.

Also if any young shoots appear on the old wood let them be cut away; but be careful not to cut the old wood, which will occasion the tree to bleed."

PP. 97 and 98

112

WATERING NEW PLANTED TREES

"New planted trees should be watered in dry weather; which frequently happens about the latter end of this month. This necessary work should be performed at least once a week; and give each tree about half a large watering pot of water."

P. 98

June

SNAP BEANS

"You may still continue to plant bush or snap beans, to succeed those planted in the former months.

The best sorts to plant at this season are the early white, black and yellow dwarfs;--they may be planted in rows, about twenty inches from each other, dropping the beans in the drills four inches apart.

It would be very proper, in dry weather, to steep the beans in soft water about six or eight hours before they are planted.--They will spring and take root much sooner and stronger.

You may also plant in this month the white runners; they will stand the heat better than the dwarfs, and bear more plentifully.--You must give them proper sticks for them to run up.

Let the bush beans that were planted last month, be frequently hoed; and let some earth be drawn up to the stems of those that require it."

PP. 99 and 100

CABBAGES AND SAVOYS

"Your cabbage plants, that were sown about the middle of April, will be fit to plant out early in this month, to the places where they are to cabbage.

For these plants prepare a piece of good ground, in the most open situation of your garden:--Dung it well with good rotten dung, if you can procure it; and dig it in evenly, laying the surface smooth; then mark out the ground for the plants, in rows about two feet or two feet and a half; and if your plants be of a very large kind, you may even allow them three feet from row to row, and two feet and a half from each other in the rows:--Observe that the distance for planting cabbage plants depends entirely on the goodness of the land.--The surface of the ground being laid even, and your rows all marked out, draw the earth up into small ridges or beds about six or seven inches high; and let the top of them be flat, observing at the same time to let these small beds or ridges range with the descent of the ground, if there be any; for if the water is suffered to lie in the alleys next month, when the heavy rains set in, the roots of the plants will be scalded; this is a very material circumstance which you ought to guard against.

It is very necessary also to observe, that the plants, at this season, should be planted out as soon after a shower of rain as possible; and if the weather should prove dry, give them now and then a little water every evening, till they have taken good root;--and should the day after planting prove very hot, which often happens in this month, it would be of great advantage to the plants to stick a small bush on the south side of them; which would not only protect the plants from violence of the sun, but greatly promote their taking root.

113

You may still continue to sow cabbages and savoys, for winter use.

The seed, at this season, should be sown on beds about four feet wide; and if the weather proves dry, water them well every evening, both before and after the plants are come up; and if the beds had a temporary shade made over them, so as to admit a free circulation of air under it, this would be of great service to the plants."

PP. 100 and 101

CAULIFLOWERS AND BROCOLI

"About the beginning of this month you may sow cauliflowers and brocoli; and if proper care is taken of them they may succeed very well--Let them be managed much in the same manner as mentioned before of cabbage plants.

The cauliflowers and brocoli plants, which were sown the beginning of last month, will be fit to prick out early in this.

For this purpose, prepare a peice of ground in an open situation; and divide it into beds about three feet wide; and plant on each bed six rows of the small plants, that you draw out of the seed beds, about five inches from each other in the rows.-Let them be watered in dry weather every evening, till they have taken good root."

PP. 101 and 102

CARROTS AND PARSNIPS

"At any time in this month, you may sow carrots and parsnips, for winter use, if you did not sow a sufficiency in the two last months.

It would be very necessary, to take the advantage of showery weather, for sowing the seed at this season.

Prepare for this purpose, a piece of good ground, in an open situation; divide it into beds about four feet wide, and sow four rows of carrots or parsnip seed on each bed.--[See April.]

Let the carrots and parsnips that were sown the last month, and in April, be frequently hoed, and properly thinned.

This is a work of more consequence than many imagine; for if the plants are once suffered to remain long crowded together, they will soon stunt each other, therefore let the business be not delayed.

If you design these carrots and parsnips to remain in the ground till November or December, the carrots should be thinned out at least to eight or nine inches from each other; and the parsnips to ten or twelve:--By strictly observing the above method you need not doubt of raising good roots of each kind.--[See April.]"

114

LETTUCES

"You may still continue to sow cabbage, Silesia, and brown Dutch lettuce, where a constant succession is required.

Prepare a piece of good soil, to sow the seeds at this season, in the lowest part of your garden; and take particular care to throw it up into high beds before you sow the seed; and observe that they are not sown too thick, for it is intended that the plants should remain in the seed beds till they are fit for use; for they will not bear transplanting at this season.

Let the lettuce plants be hoed and thinned that were sown last month, for they will now require it.

This work should be performed with a very even hand cutting up all the small plants and weeds, and leaving those that are most promising, about seven or eight inches from each other, in regular order on the beds."

P. 103

RADISHES

"Sow a succession of radishes--the short top is the best sort to sow at this season; having prepared your ground, divide it into beds about four feet wide; and sow the seed thereon broad cast, but not too thick; and if the weather proves dry give them a little water both before and after the plants come up."

PP. 103 and 104

SMALL SALLADING

"Sow mustard and cresses, at least every ten days or a fortnight, in the most shady part of your garden.

Sow these seeds in small drills or trenches, about four inches from each other; and if the weather should be dry, give the seed a little water every morning till it comes up, and the plants after they are up."

P . 104

115

CELERY

"Prick out celery plants if wanted, and not done in the last month; by pricking out these plants, they will grow strong and stockey, and will be much better to plant out next month for blanching, than those you would otherwise take out of the said bed.--[For the work see May.]"

P. 104

PULL ONIONS

Examine, towards the middle of this month, the forwardest crop of onions; when the leaves begin to wither, it is then the proper time to take the roots out of the ground. They must be managed in the following manner, which will serve also as directions for the same work next month.

These roots must be taken up in dry weather; and as you take them up, pull off their leaves; only observe to leave about four or five inches of the stalk to each root.--They should be spread to harden, upon a clean dry spot of ground, or upon a scaffold made for that purpose; let them lie ten or twelve days, remembering to turn them frequently that they may dry and harden regularly.

When they have lain a proper time, they may be gathered up, in a dry day.

Let them be very well cleaned from earth, and all outer loose skins; then bring them into the house, in dry weather, spread them evenly on the floor, and let them frequently be turned over the first two or three weeks.

Let the windows of the room be kept constantly open in dry weather;--observe, when you turn the onions over now and then, to pick out any that are decayed."

PP. 104 and 105

PULL GARLICK AND SHALOTS

"Pull up garlick and shalots, when full grown; this is known by the leaves--for when the roots are swelled as much as they will, the leaves begin to wither; let them be managed in the same manner as onions after they are taken up."

P. 105

116

CUCUMBERS, MELONS, SQUASHES, &c.

"You may still continue to sow more cucumbers, melons, squashes, &c. for they will yet succeed very well.

They should now be sown in an open situation, on hills of good earth, about twelve feet from each other.

Let the cucumbers, melons and squashes, that were sown last month, be now properly thinned; and leave not more than three or four plants on each hill."

PP. 105 and 106

TOMATOES

"Your tomatoes will now begin to run; they, being of a procumbent growth, should have sticks to support them; which should not be very high, but strong and bushy; first let one stick be set in the middle of the hill, then put three or four more round the outside of the plants, to keep them from falling to the ground."

P. 106

PEACH, NECTARINE AND APRICOT TREES

"Where the peach, nectarine and apricot trees were not looked over, and put in proper order last month, due attention should be now paid to them.--This work should be attended to early in this month, and followed with the utmost diligence till the whole is completed; for where these trees are suffered to remain long in a wild and confused state, which they will naturally fall into at this season, it would not only prove detrimental, in a great degree, to the trees, but would also very much retard the growth and ripening of these kinds of fruit.--Therefore let these trees be now in general looked over, taking care to clear away all over grown and ill-placed shoots; particularly such strong ones as arise from the old wood, which you will often find in the middle of the trees; the timely displacing such will not only strengthen, but make more room for the useful shoots; and also admit of a free circulation of air to the fruit.

Let these shoots be taken away quite close to the place from whence they are produced, except such as grow out close to the fruit; which may be cut off within half an-inch of the branch.--Observe to leave, in every part of these trees, a sufficient quantity of the best shoots, for the purpose of bearing fruit the next year;-leave also a plenty of the more regular and moderate shoots that are well situated; observing at the same time to keep the middle of the tree as open as possible, to admit air among the branches.--Do not shorten any of the shoots you intend to leave, for the reason mentioned last month; but let them stand at full length, both the large and smaller ones; and take particular care to leave them in such a manner, that the leaves may afford a moderate shade to the fruit in intense sunny days:-- 117 for it will thrive much better under a slight coverture of leaves, than when openly exposed to the sun; and the fruit will be better flavoured."

PP. 106-108

THINNING PEACHES, NECTARINES AND APRICOTS

"The peaches, nectarines, and apricots, still remaining too close upon the trees, should now be thinned; let the same rule be observed as that mentioned last month concerning these kinds of fruit."

P. 108

SUMMER PRUNING ESPALIER TREES OF APPLES, PEARS, PLUMBS AND CHERRIES

"The apple, pear, plumb and cherry trees will now have made strong shoots; which, if not gone over in May, it is now full time they should be examined and properly regulated.--Let these trees be looked over with good attention; and let them now be properly cleared of all useless and unnecessary shoots of the year; that is to say, all the luxuriant ones, wherever they appear, must be taken off close; all foreright shoots must be also cut away; and also such shoots as are produced in such parts of the trees where they cannot be properly trained in; and such as are not absolutely wanted to fill up the tree be displaced: but be careful to retain a moderate supply of the most regular and well placed shoots to train in, to chuse for winter pruning, by the rules here mentioned, viz.

In ordering- these trees, it must be observed, that there is no need to leave a general supply of young wood, as in peaches, nectarines, &c. which bear their fruit always upon one year old shoots, and in consequence thereof, require a peculiar treatment.--But as the case is otherwise with the trees I am now speaking of, there is no necessity to leave, every summer, a general supply of young shoots in every part of the tree; for as to apples, pears, plumbs and cherries, their branches seldom begin to bear till they are two or three, and sometimes four or five years old; the branches of plumbs and cherries generally begin to bear at one and two years, likewise apples sometimes in the lower parts of these States: while the pears oftener bear from four to five year old spurs:--and when the branches of all these kinds have arrived to a fruitful state, the same bearers continue to produce fruit in more and greater abundance for many years: so that there is no necessity, after the trees are once furnished fully with bearing branches, to leave such a general and constant supply of 118 young shoots above mentioned, as would be required on different trees which produce their fruit on shoots of the preceding summer's growth.--But notwithstanding it will be proper to leave here and there, in every tree, some of the best grown and well placed side shoots, together with the leader, to each branch, if there be sufficient room: this precaution should not on any account be omitted; for some of those summer shoots will most probably be wanted, to lay in, to supply some vacant place or other of the tree, in the winter pruning.

But where there appears to be an absolute want of wood in any part of these tree; do not fail, in that case, to leave, if possible, some good shoots in such vacant parts

It is always the best method to leave the trees pretty full of proper shoots, at this season; they will be ready, in case they should be wanted, to fill up any vacancy or to supply the place of old useless dead or worn out wood, when you come to prune in the winter; and such shoots as are not wanted may then be cut away.

Let all the shoots that are now left be trained at full length, and nailed or fastened up close to the frame, in a neat and regular manner all the summer."

PP. 108-110

WATERING

"Water should still be given, in dry weather, to new planted trees; and in particular to such as are planted late in the spring.

This work should be done at least twice a week in hot and dry weather; and give each tree one, two, three or four gallons of water in the evening in proportion to its size, and as its state may seem to require."

P. 110

119

July

BUSH OR SNAP BEANS

"You may, at any time in this month, plant bush or snap beans to succeed those sown in the last.

The early sorts are preferable for this planting, such as white negro and yellow dwarfs.

Choose, at this season, a piece of ground in an open situation; and, if you can give it a moderate dressing, it will be the better; let the ground be well dug, and laid even; and if the weather is inclinable to be very wet, which often happens about this time, take precaution to guard against it, otherwise it may prove destructive to the crop.

Therefore while your land is fresh dug mark out the rows, about one foot eight inches from each other, and draw the earth with your hoe up into small beds or ridges about four inches above the surface; then on these ridges or beds draw your drills, and plant your beans as directed in the former months.

But, on the other hand, should the weather prove dry, it will be necessary to steep them in soft water, for six or eight hours, before you plant them; they will in that case come up much sooner and stronger--it will be also requisite, when the ground is very dry, to water the drills, before you plant the beans.

But let it be observed that steeping the beans is necessary only in dry weather, and the drawing up the small beds or ridges, in a wet season.

Let the bush beans that were planted the last month be frequently hoed, and the ground be kept constantly loose between them, which will greatly promote their growth and draw earth up to the stems of those that are advanced to the height of four or dive inches, which will support and strengthen them.

PP. 111 and 112

CABBAGES

"The plants from cabbage seed, which was sown about the latter end of May, will be now fit to put out for good.

Make choice of a piece of rich ground in an open situation, and lay some good rotten dung thereon if it can be procured; dig it in, and lay the surface even; then mark out the rows, about two feet or two feet and a half from each other; and with a hoe draw the earth up into small flat beds or ridges, about six inches above the surface of the ground, and six inches broad on the top; and set the plants about two feet from each other--It is to be supposed that the water tables of the garden are lower than the trenches between the rows, by which means the water may be the more easily carried off, which would otherwise greatly injure the plants, if not wholly destroy them.

You may still continue to sow the seeds of cabbages and savoys where required; if the rain does not cripple them they will be fit to put out in six weeks after sowing, and will be particularly serviceable in town gardens.

For this purpose prepare a piece of ground, in a shady situation, but let it not be under trees; throw it up into high beds, and allow them good bold alleys; that water may not lie between the beds let them range with the descent of the ground."

PP. 112 and 113

120

CAULIFLOWERS AND BROCOLI

"About the beginning of this month, if not done in the last, transplant your first crop of cauliflowers and brocoli, where they are to remain till they are fit for use.

For this crop you should choose one of the best pieces of land your garden affords; and to have fine cauliflowers and brocoli you must give it a dressing with good rotten dung--and let it be spread even over the surface; dig it in, and lay the ground smooth; then mark out the rows about two feet and a half for the cauliflowers, and three feet for the brocoli; plant the former at two feet in the rows, and the latter two feet and a half: the ground being dug in a proper manner, draw the earth up into small beds or ridges, as before directed under the head of cabbages; and, if the weather should prove dry after planting, give them a moderate watering every evening, till ,they have taken good root; and if you were to stick a small bush on the south side of each plant the next morning after they are put out, (the evening being now the best time for planting) it would be of great service to them, by screening them from the intense heat of the sun.

You may still sow more cauliflower and brocoli seed, if you have not got a sufficiency of plants from your former sowing; they may be sown on a bed, as directed in last month; and should now have a temporary shade erected over them, which will not only break the violent heat of the sun, but also the heavy showers of rain which commonly fall, and cripple the young plants at this season.

If the weather should prove dry, after the sowing of the above seed, give them a moderate watering every evening till they come up, and every two or three days after they are up; for the plants at this time ought to be forwarded as. much as possible in their growth, as the season for sowing them is almost spent."

PP. 113 and 114

LEEKS

"The leeks that were sown the beginning of last month will be fit, by the latter end of this, to plant in the places where they are to remain, till wanted for the use of the kitchen.

For this purpose dig a piece of ground in an open situation, and if you can give it a little dung it would be the better; divide it into beds about four feet wide; then draw some of the largest of the plants out of the seed bed; cut off the ends of the roots and likewise the leaves; and plant them, on the beds prepared to receive them, about six or seven inches distant from each other; and give them a moderate watering every evening till they have taken good root."

PP. 114 and 1.15

ONIONS

"Your spring sown onions will be fit to take up by the beginning of this month;-let the utmost attention be paid to this crop; for these are the roots you are to depend on for winter use; let them be housed as soon as they are quite dry and in order, and managed as directed in the former month."

P. 115

121

CARROTS AND PARSNIPS

"You may still sow carrots and parsnips, if they are required;--they will yet succeed pretty well if you can prevent the sun from scalding their roots after they are come up, and the heavy rains from crippling them.

Clear the weeds, &c. from the ground where you intend to sow the seed; and give it some dung, if you can procure any--dig the ground a full spade deep--thus done, divide it into beds about four feet broad, and leave good bold alleys full fifteen inches wide and six inches deep;--sow four rows of carrot or parsnip seed on each bed: if the earth be dry when you sow the seeds, give the drill a moderate watering before you cover up, and then rake the ground smooth, and take the stones, &c. out of the alley.

Let those carrots and parsnips which were sown in the former month be constantly hoed, and the earth kept loose between the plants until the tops of them cover the ground; and also let those be thinned that require it.--[See April and May.]"

PP. 115 and 116

TURNIPS

"About the middle or towards the latter end of this month, if the weather suits, sow your first crop of turnips.

For sowing this seed, choose an open situation--dig the ground, and sow the seed while it is fresh dug--let great care be taken not to sow the seeds too thick, but as regular as possible;--divide the ground into beds from four to ten feet wide, and allow good bold alleys; and let the beds range with the declivity of the ground, so as not to suffer any water to lie on the beds, or even in the alleys."

PP. 116 and 117

LETTUCES

"Dig a spot of ground, in an open situation, to sow more lettuce seed--the Silesia, and curled coss are the best sorts to sow at this season; and should be sown at least twice in this month, to have a constant and regular supply.

It is very difficult to raise lettuce to any degree of perfection in town garden: they being in general too close and confined: and the heavy rains, that generally fall in this and the next month, often cripple the plants before they get strength.

Observe to sow the seed on high beds, about three or four feet in width; and let the alleys be broad and shelving, so that no water may lie in them."

P. 117

122

CELERY

"You may, about the middle of this month, prepare some trenches, to plant out your first crop of celery.

For this purpose choose a spot of rich ground, and clear it well from weeds; then mark out the trenches about a foot broad, and allow three of four feet between the trenches; dig each out at this season about six inches deep, without shoveling the crumbs out at the bottom; place the earth that comes out neatly in the spaces between the trenches; observe to lay it equally, and spread it as even as possible;-then put in the bottom of each trench some good rotten dung, and dig it in.

Then take up some of the best plants from the seed bed, if you have not pricked any out--choose the strongest you can find, and trim the end of their roots, and the tops of the straggling leaves--plant them in a row along the middle of the trench, setting the plants about five or six inches from each other, and give 'them a good watering:--let this be repeated every evening in dry weather till the plants have taken good root."

PP. 117 and 118

RADISHES

"You may still continue to sow salmon, short top and turnip radishes, where a constant supply is required: but there is not much prospect of a great crop from this sowing, owing to the uncertainty of the weather.--If it sets in dry, the plants will be burnt up, if not constantly watered; and, on the other hand, the heavy rains that often fall now are very destructive to the young plants, together with the intense heat of the sun, which seldom fails destroying the greatest part of them before they arrive to perfection, unless they have a temporary shade made over them; which will break the violence of the rain, and also check the scorching heat of the sun.

For sowing radishes at this season prepare a piece of ground in an open situation and divide it into beds about three feet wide; and sow the seeds evenly: let it be observed that the alleys between the beds ought to be both deeper and wider in this and the following month than at any other time, in order to draw off all the superfluous water that may fall at this season."

PP. 118 and 119

123

SMALL SALLADING

"You may now, sow where required, the different sorts of small sallading; such as mustard, cresses, rape, &c.

Where these small herbs are daily wanted, there should, in order to have a constant supply of such as are young and good, be some seeds sown at least once a week.

Prepare a small piece of ground in a shady situation, but not under trees; and sow the seeds in drills as advised in the former months; and if the weather should prove dry, let the seed be watered every evening till it comes up, and the plants also, till they are fit for use."

P. 119

SPINAGE

"Towards the latter end of this month, sow some spinage seed; it will be fit for use in the autumn.

The best sort to sow at this season, is the round seeded or the broad leaved kind.

Prepare a piece of good ground in an open situation; let it be well dug, and the surface laid even; and let it be divided into beds about four feet wide; and on each bed draw four drills--scatter the seeds thin in each--cover it lightly over with your hoe, and rake the surface even.

You may likewise sow a few radish seeds with the spinage; the former will come out before the latter wants hoeing.

Should the weather prove dry, it will be requisite to give the seed a moderate watering till it comes up; and the plants now and then after they are up."

PP. 119 and 120

WATERING

"Watering should, at this time, be duly practiced in dry weather, to all such plants as have been lately planted out, till they have taken root.

This work should be done always in the evening about two hours before sun-set that the water day have time enough to soak in before the sun comes on the plants the next day."

P. 120

124

PRUNE PEACH, NECTARINE, AND APRICOT TREES

"In gardens where these trees have not yet had their summer pruning, that very needful work should be done early in this month; otherwise the fruit upon such trees will not only be small and ill formed, but also very bad tasted, in comparison to the true flavour of this fruit.

And besides retarding the growth, and debasing the taste of the fruit, it is also detrimental in a very great degree, to both standard and espalier trees, to neglect summer pruning until this time; and in particular peach, nectarine, and apricots, and such like trees as produce their fruit principally upon one year old shoots.

Besides, it causes great perplexity to the operator, to break through and regulate such a confusion of young shoots;--it also requires treble pains and labour, and cannot be executed with half the accuracy as when the work is commenced early in the summer.

There is a very great advantage in beginning early in the summer to prune, train and leave the useful shoots in their proper places; and at the same time to clear the trees from all that are ill-placed and luxuriant:--For,when the useless ones are timely cut away, and the useful left in a regular manner all the summer, the sun, air and gentle showers will have a proper access, not only to promote the growth and improve the flavour of the fruit, but also to harden and ripen the shoots perfectly, which is absolutely necessary to their producing good fruit the next year.

But however, where there are standard and espalier trees still remain unpruned, do not fail to let it be done the beginning of this month.

Do not shorten any of the shoots at this time; but let every one be left at full length.

Look also again over such espalier trees as were pruned, and tied down the two last months; and see if all the proper shoots which were laid in before, keep firm to their places;--and where any of them have been displaced, or got loose, let them be tied, and nailed again close in proper order.

Likewise observe, if there has been any straggling shoots produced since last month, in places where not wanted, let them be also displaced.

It would also be very necessary to look over again, those trees that were pruned in April and May;--you will find on them a great number of useless shoots that are put out since that time, which should be cut away; in particular side shoots that have put out this summer's branches--let these be cut away also."

PP. 120-122

August

PEASE

"About the beginning, or middle of this month, you may sow pease for an autumn crop.

The best sorts to sow at this season, are the Charleton, or golden hottspur;-- they being early kinds, will come forward before the winter sets in.

Let a piece of ground be prepared in an open situation; and if the weather is inclined to be wet, draw the earth up into flat ridges, or small beds, about four feet from each other: but if the ground be dry it will be proper to steep the pease in soft water, about eight or ten hours before you sow them."

P. 123

125

BUSH OR SNAP BEANS

"About the beginning of this month, plant bush or snap beans for a general fall crop;. they will come in at a very good time for pickling:--Prepare a piece of good ground in a free and open situation; and if you can refresh it with a little manure, it would b( the better;--let it be well dug, and the surface laid even:--As this season in general proves wet, it will be necessary to plant the beans on small flat beds, or ridges drawn up with a hoe, about a foot broad on the top, and five or six inches above the common surface, and draw some drills thereon about two inches deep, and plant the beat and cover them over as directed in the last month.

You may plant any of the dwarf kind at this season, both the early and late;-tho' planted at the same time, you will have a regular succession; as the former will come in ten or twelve days sooner than the latter.

Let the beans which were planted in the last month, be frequently hoed, as plant: of all kinds require it more now than at any other time, on account of the heavy rain: that generally fall at this season, which wash and harden the ground much; and while it remains in this state the plants will not thrive until the earth is loosened.

Draw earth up to the stems of those beans that are advanced to the height of three or four inches, as they will stand in great need of it."

P. 124

CABBAGES

"About the beginning, middle, or even at any time in this month, you may sow early York, sugar-loaf, and savoy cabbage seed.

The early cabbages sown at this season, will make handsome heads about the latter end of November, if managed as directed in the foregoing month.

The above mentioned sorts are well calculated for town gardens: for you may plan three of these to one of the larger kind of cabbages: neither will they be half so long on the ground.

Prepare a piece of rich ground in an open situation.--Having dug it well and laid your surface even, divide it into beds about three feet, or three feet and a half wide remembering always at this season, to leave wide bold alleys, at least six inches below the survace of the beds, to keep the ground in wet weather as dry as possible;-sow the seed, but not too thick--cast a little earth over it, and rake the surface even:--if there was a temporary shade made of bushes, erected about four feet above the ground, and open on all sides to admit of a free circulation of air, it would be not only of benefit to the seed before it comes up, but also to the plants after they are up.--How often is the seeds-man abused, in this and the latter month, for disposing bad seed, when in reality bad management is too often the cause. There are a number of indiscreet people that would sow seeds at this season when the ground is dry, without any shade; when three successive hot days would totally destroy the germination of all the seeds that are even buried at a proper depth.--How cautious then people ought-to be of sowing any kind of seeds in hot weather without shading or watering them.

126

If you have any good cabbage plants of the large kind, that are now fit to put out, let a piece of ground be prepared to receive them.---After the ground is manured, well dug, and the surface laid even, mark it out in rows about two feet; or, if you have a plenty of garden room, two feet and a half from each other;--then with a hoe draw the earth up into small beds or ridges, about six inches high, and near a foot broad on the top; and set the plants about two feet from each other in the rows:-if the weather be dry, give them some water, and let it be repeated every evening till they have taken good root.

You may also transplant savoys at any time in this month, if you have plants and ground to spare--let it be manured, dug and managed in the same manner as before observed under the head of cabbages--only plant the savoy two feet from row to row, and twenty inches from each other in the rows; and give them a good watering after planting, if the weather continues dry:--let it be repeated every evening till they have taken root.

The plants that are put out at this time, will be handsomely headed in November and December; and will continue in excellent order to supply the table till January."

PP. 125 and 126

CAULIFLOWERS AND BROCOLI

"Prepare some good ground in the beginning of this month, if not done in the last, to plant out some brocoli and cauliflowers; an open spot not shaded by trees, should be preferred;--and spread some well rotten dung over the piece, and dig it in--this will be of great advantage to the plants.

Let them be planted in rows two feet and a half, or three feet asunder, and near the same distance in the rows; observe to draw the ground up in ridges or small beds, as described in the last month; and give each plant a little water should the weather be dry--this necessary work will forward their growth before the winter sets in, and will produce fine large heads in the spring.

Let the cauliflowers and brocoli that were put out in the last month, be now frequently hoed, and draw the earth up to their stems; as it will strengthen the plants, and greatly promote their growth."

P. 127

ONIONS

"Towards the latter end of this month, sow onions for the first crop.

They may be sown in a bed very thick, in order to be transplanted out in October or November, where they are to remain till they are full grown."

P. 127

127

CARROTS

"You may also sow carrots at any time in this month, if you have a piece of ground vacant, and the weather suits.---[For the method see the two last months.]"

P. 128

SPINAGE

"Prepare now some good ground (if neglected in the last month) for a general crop of spinage, to come in for use in November; this may be done any time in this month; but towards the middle, or near the latter end, is the best season for a certain crop: but delay it not till the month is out; for where a constant supply of spinage is required, it is necessary to sow two or three times between this and October.

Choose a piece of rich ground in an open situation; and after the ground is dug, and divide into beds about four feet wide, draw four drills on each bed, and sow the seed thereon; but let care be taken that it be not sown too thick--cover it over with your hoe, and rake the surface smooth--you may sow a small sprinkling of radish seed with the spinage.

Observe, it is the round seeded sort that is to be sown now; for this bears large thick and broad leaves, but it is not so hardy as the prickly sort."

P. 128

TRANSPLANT CELERY

"Transplant more celery: let an open spot be chosen: mark out the trenches, and prepare in the same manner as directed in last month. Get the plants: cut off the tops of their leaves, and trim the ends of their roots: plant one row in each trench about five or six inches from each other. Immediately after they are planted, let them be watered; and if the weather should continue dry, the watering must be duly repeated every evening untill the plants have taken root."

PP. 128 and 129

129

TURNIPS

"Early in this month sow turnips of any kind for autumn or winter use--but if you have not sown any before, the early Dutch is the best for the first crop; as they will come in a fortnight or three weeks sooner than the large sorts, and are also much sweeter and better for the table."

PP. 129 and 130

HOEING TURNIPS

"Your turnips which were sown last month, now want hoeing--this necessary work must not be delayed after the leaves of the young plants are arrived to the size of a copper:--The business of hoeing turnips is of more consequence than many are aware of; and must be performed in a very nice manner.--Prepare yourself with hoes made for that purpose, viz. For the small early sorts, six inches will be wide enough; and eight or nine inches for the large kinds.--Let the edge of your tools be sharp, so as to cut out all the plants that stand within the width of your hoe; and to leave the strongest plants six or seven inches from each other, and the larger kinds from nine inches to a foot.--By thinning the plants in this manner, it will greatly promote their growth, and also destroy the young weeds which are now coming up plentifully amongst them:--This work should be repeated at least every fortnight (until the leaves cover the ground) in order to keep the earth constantly loose between them: for you will find, that after every heavy shower of rain, the earth will be bound on the surface, and the plants will not thrive well till it is broken."

P. 130

POTATOES

"Some time about the beginning of this month, plant potatoes for winter use.

For this purpose choose a piece of good ground in an airy situation, and give it some manure if you have any to spare--let the land be well digged, and the surface laid even--then mark out the rows about two feet and a half from each other, and draw the earth up into small beds about eight or ten inches broad on the top:-In the middle of these beds plant one row of the sets about ten inches or a foot one from the other: they may be either planted with a dibble about two inches deep, or you may draw drills with a hoe, and place the sets in them: let the part of the root which is cut be put downwards."

P. 131

130

LETTUCES

"You may still continue to sow lettuces, to succeed those which were sown in the former month.--The seed at this time should be sown in a small piece of low ground; pretty thick, and watered every evening till it comes up; as it is intended for transplanting as soon as fit for that purpose."

P. 131

RADISHES

"You may now sow more radishes; for where these roots are constantly required, they should be sown every fortnight at least, to have such as are young and good.

The salmon, short-top, and turnip radishes, are all proper sorts to sow at this season; and should be sown in beds about three or four feet wide, but not too thick: should the weather be dry let them be watered till they come up, and three or four times a week after they are up."

PP. 131 and 132

SMALL SALLADING

"You may still sow small sallading where it is wanted; such as mustard, cress, rape, &c. .

Sow the seed in small drills, as directed in the former months; and let the ground be watered frequently till the plants come up, and in dry weather; and every other evening at least after they are up."

P. 132

131

September

PEASE

"Let earth be drawn up to the stems of the pease that were sown last month, if not done before: for they will now require it; and it will strengthen them greatly.

Set sticks to them when they are arrived to the heighth of four or five inches; and let your sticks be from four to five feet high, which will be quite sufficient at this season.

If you have neglected sowing pease in the former month, you may venture to sow some early in this:--but this work should not be delayed: for the sooner they are planted the better.--[For the method see last month.]"

P. 133

BUSH BEANS

"Let the bush beans which were planted in August, be frequently hoed; and let earth be drawn up to their stems, for they stand in need of it.

If you have neglected planting bush or snap beans in the last month, it is not yet too late: the work should not be delayed, but done immediately.--[For the method see August.]"

P. 134

CABBAGES AND SAVOYS

"Towards the latter end of this month, transplant the early York, sugar-loaf, and savoy cabbage plants, sown in the last month:--Prepare a piece of good ground in an open part of your garden--manure it well, and spread it even over the surface; then dig it in, and plant the early York, about one foot eight inches from row to row, and eighteen inches in the rows--the sugar-loaf and savoys will require a little more room: that is, about two feet from row to row, and one foot eight inches along the rows.

Should the weather prove very wet, it would be necessary to draw the earth up into small beds or ridges, to protect them from the water; which would otherwise rot their roots if planted in the level surface.

If you have omitted sowing early York, sugar loaf, and savoy cabbages, in August let it be not delayed but done as soon as possible; for the seed even if sown early in this month will make pretty cabbages by Christmas, if managed in a proper manner.

Let this seed be sown in beds, on an east or west border, but not in a south aspect, nor yet too thick--in dry weather water the seed every evening till it comes up.

About the latter end of this month, or early in the next, you will not fail to sow early York, sugar-loaf, and drum-head cabbage seed, to come early in the spring.

The seed that is sown now should be imported from Europe; for if you save it from the cabbages that are the growth of these States, they will run to seed in the spring almost to a plant--while the others are forming fine heads.--This doctrine 132 tho' but little known, may be relied on as a fact, as I speak from experience, which no art or argument can confute--and however strange it may appear to some of my reader I hope they will not censure me before they have made a fair trial on what I have advanced--Similar circumstances are to be met with in carrots, parsnips and turnips, as before observed."

PP. 134 and 135

CAULIFLOWERS AND BROCOLI

"You may still continue to put out the plants of cauliflowers and brocoli, if you have any that are good, and ground to spare--they will do very well in the lower parts of these States from this planting--the work ought not to be delayed, but done as soon as possible.

Let the ground be prepared, and the plants put out (as advised in the last month.)

Let the cauliflowers and brocoli that were transplanted before, be hoed as soon as they have taken good root: for nothing promotes the growth of all plants of this kind as hoeing them frequently, whether there are any weeds come up amongst them or not.

Towards the latter end of this month, or early in the next, sow cauliflower seed--the plants from this sowing if they come on well, and the winter does not kill them, will be fit to put out about Christmas; and will come in fit for use the beginning of May."

PP. 135 and 136

TURNIPS

"If you have not sown any turnips before now, let this work be attended to as soon as possible; and if not delayed too long, you may yet have a tolerable good crop. The best sorts to sow at this time are the early Dutch, or red top--they will come in at a proper season, and are exceeding good for the table. Sow this seed much in the same manner as advised in the last month; and let care be taken not to sow it too thick, but as even as possible.--Let the turnips that are now fit for hoeing be duly attended to; and those which were hoed last month be gone over two or three times in this, as it will add greatly to their growth.

Choose out one or two of your steadiest hands, to hoe turnips the first time; and make choice of boys for the second and third hoeings; by which means they will be improving, and in a short time they will be capable of performing the work with accuracy and dispatch."

PP. 136 and 137

133

POTATOES

"The potatoes which were planted the last month, will now want hoeing; and, about the middle of this month let some earth be drawn up to the plants, which will be of great service to them:--this work should be repeated every ten or twelve days till the root; begin to swell, and the tops nearly cover the ground."

P. 137

ONIONS

"The season is now advancing for the sowing of onions for a general crop--about the middle of the month is a very proper time to execute this work.

Choose a small piece of good ground in an open part of your garden--dig it, and divide the same into beds about three or four feet wide--sow the seed thereon pretty thick, and cast a little earth over it, raking the surface.of the beds smooth.'

P. 137

CARROTS

"If you omitted sowing carrots in the former months, it would be necessary (where these young roots are constantly required) to sow seed early in this month: if the weather proves mild, they will be fit for use the latter end of December.

Let those which were sown in the two former months be often hoed;--let them also be thinned that stand in need of it, which will forward the plants greatly."

PP. 137 and 138

SPINAGE

"Spinage may be sown at any time in this month, with the utmost prospect of success: but if the work has been neglected, the sooner some seed is put into the ground, the better for a general winter crop.

You may sow the seeds now on the east or west borders of your garden, in drills about nine inches one from the other--scatter the seeds thin in each: cover them, and rake the ground smooth.--Let the spinage that was sown last month be hoed as soon as you can plainly discover the rows--it will greatly encourage the growth of the young plants."

P. 138

134

CELERY

"The celery plants which were put out the latter end of July, will now want a little earth to be drawn towards them; but let the utmost care be taken not to suffer it to fall into the hearts of the plants, which would choke them,--You may put out more celery if you have not a sufficient quantity out already: for they will do very well if put out by the middle of this month; and will be fit for use about the latter end of November.

Prepare a piece of good ground in the lowest part of your garden--dig out the trenches six or seven inches deep, and about four or five feet from each other-lay some good rotten dung in the bottom of each trench, and dig it in even--then plant one row of the best plants you can procure from your seed bed; or, if you have pricked any out, you will find them to be the best plants--cut off the ends of the straggling roots and the long leaves, planting them in the trenches about five or six inches from each other."

P. 139

LETTUCES

"Early in this month transplant those lettuce plants that were sown the beginning of last month.--For this purpose choose a piece of good ground in the most airy part of your garden, and let it be manured as well as possible (for these plants delight in a rich soil and low situation at this season.)--Let it be dug and the surface laid even--then divide it into beds four feet wide--let the alleys be full six inches deep, and at least fifteen inches in width--rake the beds even, drawing all the stones and rubish into the alleys; and let it be taken away before you proceed to put out the plants.

Draw out of your seed beds some of the strongest plants which are thereon; and plant four rows of them on each bed, about nine inches from each other.

Having planted your first row, set your line down for the second; and put in your plants (not opposite) but in the opening between each plant of the first row, so that every three plants may form a triangle--by this method they will compleatly cover the ground before they crowd each other.

The lettuce plants that were put out last month, should be now often hoed, which will greatly encourage their growth:--for when you observe the ground to be bound on the surface, hoeing is always necessary--for this frequently happens after very heavy showers of rain;--and the plants will not thrive untill the earth is loosened.--Let care be taken not to draw the earth into the hearts of the plants when you are hoeing them.

You may sow lettuce seed the beginning of this month for a general crop of sallad after Christmas and the spring.

You may sow any sorts at this time; but the best are the white curled coss, or Silesia, brown Silesia, cabbage, brown Dutch, green and white coss--they should be sown in beds as directed in the former month.

Let your lettuce plants in dry weather be duly supplied with water every evening; but let care be taken not to suffer it to run or wash the surface of the ground, as it will materially injure the plants."

PP. 139-141

135

RADISHES

"About the beginning or near the middle of this month, sow salmon, short-top, and turnip radishes, for a general autumn crop,.for they will succeed very well.--Prepare for this purpose a piece of good ground in the most airy part of your garden, and let it be well dug and divided into beds four feet wide: sow the seeds thereon, but not too thick: cast a little earth over it; and if the weather should continue dry it will be necessary to give the seed a little water till it comes up, and the plants now and then after they are up--let those radishes that were sown in the last month be also watered in dry weather every evening, which will prevent their growing hot and stickey."

SMALL SALLADING

"You may still continue to sow small sallad where required--such as mustard, cress, rape, radishes, &c.--These seeds may be sown in the east border of your garden, or, in a bed on any of the squares, in drills, as observed in the former month--and in dry weather let them be watered till it comes up, and the plants sometimes after they appear above ground:--Remember that the evening is the best time for watering plants of all kinds at this season."

PP. 141 and 142

STRAWBERRIES

"Near the middle, or towards the latter end of this month, if you have a piece of vacant ground, and would wish to plant out some strawberries, it may now be done with great propriety.--These plants may either be put out in one of the squares, or on each side of your principal walk in the garden, by way of borders; and they will make a pretty appearance let them be planted where they will. The ground should be well manured, dug and divided into beds four feet wide, and allow full fifteen inches for the alleys, and let them be five or six inches deep. Let the old strawberry beds be well examined, and take up as many young plants as you have occasion for, but do not disturb the old stools which are by no means fit to make a new plantation; for let it be observed that there were certain runners left in April for this purpose, which may now be taken up, and after trimming off the ends of the roots and loose leaves, let them be planted on the beds prepared to receive them; and if the weather be dry give them a good watering to settle the earth about the roots of the plants.

There is one great advantage arising from the early planting of strawberries, and that is, that they will have time to get strength before the winter sets in; and will be in condition to bear a good crop of fruit the next spring."

PP. 142 and 143

136

BUSH BEANS

"Let the bush or snap beans that were planted in the last month, be frequently hoed; and let some earth be drawn up to those that are advanced to the height of four or five inches."

P. 144

CABBAGES

"If you have neglected to put out your early York, sugar-loaf, and savoy cabbage plants, in the last month, let the work be no longer delayed, for they are advancing in their growth, and ought to be planted out for good.

Choose a piece of ground in an open situation, and give it some good rotten dung if it can possibly be procured: for let it be observed, there is no crop that requires manure more than cabbages, and the different kinds of cole worts. As soon as the ground is dunged let it be immediately dug, and the surface laid even, and raked as smooth as possible--you need not draw the earth up in ridges as recommended in the former months (unless the weather proves very wet, which seldom happens at this time) but let the plants be put out on the level ground, and the savoys and sugar loafs in rows about two feet wide from each other from row to row, and one foot eight inches one from another in the row; and the early York one foot eight by eighteen inches: If the weather proves dry give them a moderate watering till they have taken good root.

Let the cabbage plants of all sorts, that were put out in the two former months, be frequently hoed; and let some earth be drawn up to those that stand in need of it; which will strengthen them, and greatly promote their growth. But if you leave neglected to sow early York, sugar loaf, and drum-head cabbages in the last month, let it be no longer delayed: for the time is now advancing when this seed should be put into the ground. It ought to be sown in beds, in the same manner as directed in September."

PP. 144 and 145

CAULIFLOWERS AND BROCOLI

"If you have any good cauliflower or brocoli plants, that were not planted out in the last month, they may be put out early in this:--I have known them produce very good heads in Charleston from this planting--but they will not answer ten miles in the country.--On the islands near the sea, and in the towns of Beaufort and Savannah, or to the southward, they may be transplanted with some prospect of success, if your ground is rich and in good order.--Let these plants be put out at this season, in rows two feet from each other; and the same distance one from the other in the row.

Let the cauliflowers and brocoli that were transplanted in the former months, be now frequently hoed; and let the earth be drawn up to their stems as they advance in growth."

PP. 145 and 146

137

TURNIPS

"Let the turnips which were sown in the former month, be frequently hoed, and properly thinned; as it will greatly forward the late sown crops, which stand in much need of it."

P. 146

ONIONS

"Towards the latter end of this month, the onions that were sown for a first crop will be ready to transplant out, where they are to remain till they are fit for use.--Choose a piece of good ground in an open situation; and lay some good rotten dung thereon; dig it in even, and rake the surface as smooth as possible--then divide the ground into beds about four feet wide--draw out of your seed beds some of the largest plants that you can find--trim off the ends of their roots, and the tops of their leaves; and let four rows of these plants be put out on each bed, eight or nine inches from each other; and give them a good watering if the ground is dry."

PP. 146 and 147

PLANT GARLICK AND SHALOTS

"Towards the latter end of this month, or early in the next, you may plant out garlick and shalots.

Choose for this purpose a piece of good ground in an open situation, and lay some rotten dung thereon if you can procure it; and let it be dug in even and the surface laid smooth; then divide it into beds about four feet wide, and on each bed plant four rows of the roots about nine inches from each other, and let the upper part of the root be an inch beneath the surface of the earth."

P. 147

CARROTS

"The carrots which were sown in the former months, if the tops of the plants do not cover the surface of the ground, let them be hoed at least every fortnight or three weeks, to keep the earth loose between the rows;--and let those that stand too thick, be properly thinned in due time."

P. 147

138

SPINAGE

"If you have omitted sowing spinage for winter and spring use, let it be delayed no longer, but done as early in this month as possible.--The sort I would recommend for this sowing, is the prickly seeded: and if the east border of your garden is vacant let it be prepared for this crop--sow your seed in drills eight or nine inches (cross-ways the border) from each other, but not too thick. Let the spinage that was sown in the former months, be duly hoed and weeded; and let the early crops be thinned out so as to leave the plants standing single four or five inches from each other.--Where this work is executed in proper time, the plants will always produce broad and thick leaves."

P. 148

CELERY

"Take advantage of a fine day, and earth such celery as require it.--Let the earth be well laid up to the plants, and within six or eight inches of the top of their leaves.--Let this work be performed with the utmost care; and lay your earth up gently to the plants least it falls into their hearts and choaks them.--This earthing up should be repeated at least three or four times in this month; as it will not only promote their growth, but their blanching also."

P. 149

LETTUCES

"Near the middle, or towards the latter end of this month, let the south border of your garden be got ready to receive some lettuce plants, to come in for use early in the spring--supposing the border to be about four feet wide;--plant thereon four rows of the best plants that you can find on the seed bed, about nine or ten inches from each other; and if the weather should prove dry, let them be duly watered till they have taken good root.

Let the plants that were put out in the last month be often hoed, and the surface of the ground always kept loose between them."

PP. 149 and 150

139

RADISHES

"You may yet sow radishes where required, for winter use; and at this season in a sheltered situation; in beds about four feet wide, or on a border that is open to the sun: and in dry weather let the plants be watered in the evenings till they get strength."

P. 150

SMALL SALLADING

"Where small sallading is required, you should now sow it on a border open to the sun, in drills, as directed in the former month."

P. 150

ARTICHOKES

"Near the middle, or towards the latter end of this month, let your artichokes be well examined, and give them their winter dressing.

Take away all the earth round the stool, or plant about two feet wide and six inches deep, clean to the roots:--This being done, provide yourself with a hard piece of wood about six inches long, two inches wide, and half an inch thick;-make one end of it as sharp as possible; and let all the shoots or suckers on the old stool be well examined--then with the wooden instrument take away all the smaller shoots quite close to the stock from whence they arise, (which have sprung up since the last dressing)--except four or five of the largest that are to be left; and let the loose straggling leaves be cut off but not close to the stock; then lay on the roots, and crown off the stool between the remaining suckers or shoots, a wheelbarrow full of good rotten dung, and spread it even where the earth was taken out--then let the earth be put back again on the dung, raising it about the remaining plants full six inches higher than before the work was begun; and let the utmost care be taken that the loose earth do not fall into the hearts of the plants, which will greatly injure them.--To prevent this it would not be improper to tie the leaves together of those suckers that you do intend to leave till the work is executed.

Let it be observed, that the four or five suckers or shoots which are left, are not all to remain to bear heads the next year--for three is quite sufficient for the strongest stool; and the other two are left as a reserve, in case you should be in want of plants to make a new plantation in the spring.

By this fall dressing it will strengthen the plants greatly that remain; as I may justly suppose there are four times as many suckers taken away as are suffered to remain."

PP. 150 and 151

140

ASPARAGUS

"Towards the latter end of this month, let your asparagus.-beds have their winter's dressing.

In the first place let all the stalks be cut off quite close to the ground, and carried away: then let both the alleys and beds be hoed, and the ground raked as clean as possible; and the weeds and litter if any, be all taken off.

The beds and alleys being now clean, provide yourself with a fork for the purpose of dressing the asparagus beds--it should be about ten inches wide, and contain three tines, each about a foot in length, and an inch and a half broad; the back part perfectly flat, and the fore side convex, or a small rising in the middle of each tine--let the ends be blunt, so that they may not wound the crown of the roots.-Let the beds and alleys be forked up three or four inches deep, and the earth laid smooth and even--then with your rake draw an inch or an inch and a half of the earth off each bed into the alleys--lay some good rotten dung thereon about four inches thick, spreading it even--dig out the earth in the middle of the alleys a full spade deep, and fifteen inches wide, covering the dung with the same (you have before put on the beds) as even as possible, and rake the surface smooth.

By this management your asparagus beds will lie dry and warm all the winter, and produce fine large buds in the spring--You may plant on these beds some endive, or early York cabbages; but remember that whatever crop you plant on your asparagus beds must be taken off by the tenth of February, in order to give them their spring dressing.

PP. 152 and 153

STRAWBERRIES

"Early in this month is a good time for making new plantations of strawberries, as they will soon take root, and will acquire strength to bear fruit in the next spring.The sooner this work is done the better.

You may either plant them in beds on the quarter of your garden, or in the border of each side of the principal walk;--but let them be planted where they will (if you would wish to have good fruit) the ground must be well manured.--Dig your land a full spade deep, and divide it into beds four feet wide--then put out four rows of the best young plants you can find on the old beds.--If you remember there were some left in April for this purpose, which will be by this time fine plants; tho', to have them strong, and bear good fruit in the spring, it would be necessary to take them up with small balls of earth to their roots, and immediately planted on the beds prepared to receive them--and if the weather be dry give them a good watering to promote their growth, as well as to settle the earth about the roots.

P. 153

141

RASPBERRIES

"At any time in this month you may plant out -raspberries where wanted.

Choose for these plants the lowest part of your garden; for they delight in low moist land; observe, never to suffer the water to lay on or between the beds, either in summer or winter.--If you would wish to have large, and good flavoured fruit, it would be proper to give your ground a good dressing with manure when you put out the plants.

The land being well manured, and dug a full spade deep, repair to the old beds, and take up some of the best young plants that can be spared.

It would be very imprudent to destroy the old beds the same year you make your new ones; as they will bear but little for the first and second season: tho' the third year they will come into full bearing, and produce fruit plentifully:--Therefor( as I observed above, take out only such young plants as can be best spared, and will not injure your crop, for the ensuing year.--You will find many young plants round the outside of the old beds, which (if not taken up to make new plantations) must be destroyed--let it be observed that the old plants which bore fruit the last year, are not proper to be planted out; for they will not produce fruit more than one season, when they die, and are succeeded by young shoots every summer:--It is these and these only, that I mean should be planted out to form new beds.

Having procured a sufficient number of young plants, trim off the ends of the straggling roots, and one-third part of the young shoots, and plant them in rows four or five feet one from another; and about a foot or fifteen inches from each other.

Let the old raspberry beds be examined, and let all the old branches be taken out, and the young shoots properly arranged, and the weeds which are now on the beds be taken away, and the earth loosened between the young plants that are left-lay in some good rotten dung betwixt them, and let the alleys be now dug a full spade deep, and three feet wide, close up- to the plants; and as you are digging between the rows, cast a little earth over the dung: by so doing the raspberry beds will look neat all the winter, and will be in a fair way of producing a good crop of fruit next season."

PP. 154 and 155

142

November

PLANTING EARLY BEANS

"Near the middle, or the latter end of this month, you may plant some beans to come early the succeeding spring.

Those which are planted now, if they survive the winter's frost, &c. will be fit for use early in April.

The Mazagon bean is the best to plant at this season; for they will come up earlier then any other sort, and are excellent bearers tho' but of an humble growth; and they will stand the winter better than the larger kinds.

A warm border under a south wall, is the best situation to plant those beans at this season.

They should be planted in rows across the border--that is, provided the border is five or six feet wide; observing that the rows are to be two feet asunder, which will be room enough for this sort.--The beans should be planted four or five inches from each other in the rows, and near an inch and a half deep.

You may also plant one row lengthways of the border, within two or three inches of the wall or fence: these will sometimes outlive the winter, when those at greater distance from the wall, &c. are destroyed.

But, if the border is narrow, you had better plant two rows only lengthways; that is, one row near the wall, and the other about two feet and a half from it.

They may be planted either with a blunt dibble putting them in about an inch and a half, or near two inches deep; or you may draw drills that depth, and drop the beans therein; drawing the earth an equal depth over them, and rake the ground smooth.

In planting early beans, it often proves successful first to sow them pretty thick in a bed of rich earth; and when they come up a little height, transplant them into the borders.

The method is this:--Dig a bed about three or four feet broad, of good earth, in a warm corner of your garden.

The ground being dug, draw the earth off about an inch and an half or near two inches in depth equally from the surface, half to the one side and half to the other. This done, scatter the beans thereon about an inch asunder, and immediately cover them over with the earth that was drawn off for that purpose: or you may with your hoe draw broad flat drills cross-way the bed, and scatter the beans pretty thick, and cover them over with earth equally; and if severe frost should prevail in their infant state while remaining altogether in this, they can readily be protected with a few pine tops till they are fit to transplant.

When the beans are come up an inch and a half or two inches high, they should then in mild weather, be transplanted into the above mentioned borders, taking them carefully out of the seed-bed with their full spreading roots, and as much earth as will hang about them--pull the old beans at the bottom, and trim the end of the perpendicular root, and then plant them in rows in the same manner and at the same distance as before directed; observing to close the earth well about every plant--they will soon take root and grow freely.

One reason for this practice is, the best of gardeners allow, that the beans which are transplanted, will come in sooner by a week or ten days than those that are not, though the seed be put in the ground the same day."

PP. 156-158

143

SOWING PEASE

"About the middle of this month, sow pease for your first crop--if they escape the frost they will come for use early in April.

The early hotspurs are the proper-sorts to sow at this time.--Choose seeds that are fresh and new.

There are several sorts of the hotspurs, such as the golden, Carleton, Reading, &c. These I would recommend to sow for the first crop.

A warm south border, under a wall or fence, is the most proper place to sow them in at this season--the seed must be sown in drills, either lengthways or in rows, athwart the border, according to its breadth: where it is but narrow, draw one drill only lengthways at the distance of one or two feet from the wall or fence, and scatter the pease therein pretty thick, but as regular as possible--cover them up immediately with earth about an inch and a half deep, and rake the ground even.

Where your border is five or six feet wide, it would be proper to sow the pease in drills cross-ways the same, about four feet distant from each other: and if you intend they should run on sticks, you may plant a row of cabbage or lettuce plants between them."

PP. 158 and 159

CABBAGES

"If you have neglected to put out any early or savoy cabbage plants in the former month, and have good plants and ground to spare, it may be done at any time in this month, and will make fine heads early in the spring without the least danger of running to seed, as the large kinds are apt to do.--If the ground be good where you have sown your first crop of early pease, you may with propriety put out a row of these plants between each row of pease, about sixteen or-eighteen inches from each other."

P. 159

ONIONS

"If you have not put out any onions in the former month, it should be done as soon as possible in this.

Let a piece of ground be prepared to receive them: and after it is dug and divided into beds about four feet wide, cut off the ends of the roots as well as the tops of the long leaves, and plant four rows of them on each bed, about nine or ten inches one from the other in the rows.

Let the onions which were planted out in the last month, be frequently hoed, as it will be of infinite service to the young plants."

P. 160

144

LETTUCES

"Lettuce plants which are designed to remain in the beds where sown for winter use, should now be cleared of weeds, and thinned-where you find them too close.

Those plants which were sown in September, should now be transplanted into a warm south border, in order to come out for use early in the spring."

P. 160

RADISHES

"Some time in this month sow some short-top radish seed, and if they survive the frost, they will be fit to draw early in early February; and tho' there is but little hopes of their succeeding, yet where radishes are desired early, it will not be improper to sow a few to take their chance."

PP. 160 and 161

SOWING PEASE

"Let this seed be sown in a warm border near a walk or fence; observing to sow it pretty thick, and in a fair, dry day."

P. 161

SMALL SALADING

"You may sow small salading in a sheltered situation: such as mustard, cresses, rape, &c. where required."

P. 161

145

CELERY

"When the weather is open and dry, you should earth up your celery to blanch.--Break the earth well-, and lay it up to the plants within six or eight inches of the tops of their leaves.

In performing this work let care be taken not to lay the earth too hastily to the plants, as it may be the means of forcing it into the hearts of them, which would occasion the plants to rot."

P. 161

ARTICHOKES

"If your artichokes did not get their winter's dressing in October, it should be no longer postponed; for the sooner the work is performed the better.

The earth should be opened round the roots, and all the useless plants taken off leaving four or five of the strongest suckers or shoots on each stock--lay some good rotten dung round them: when they should be earthed up and managed in the same manner as recommended in the month of October."

PP. 161 and 162

ASPARAGUS

"Where your asparagus beds were not forked and dressed up in the last month, let it be done early in this.

The stalks should be all cut away quite close to the ground; and the weeds which are on the beds or in the alleys, be hoed and raked to the ends of the same; and carried immediately out of the garden: then let them be forked up; the dung laid on; and the work executed as directed in the former month."

P. 162

146

PRUNE LARGE-GROWN APPLE AND PEAR TREES

"Towards the latter end of this month, let the apple and pear trees in the orchard, be well examined; and all dead, decayed, and worn out branches, be cut away; together with all the suckers and superfluous shoots which often arise out of the old limbs in the middle of the trees--and where you find the bearing wood too thick, and growing together, let it be taken out, in order to give room to such as you intend to remain to bear fruit, as well as to admit a free circulation of air among the branches.

The business of pruning old fruit trees is of more consequence than many are aware of; and require much judgment in performing the work;--Let the branches be regularly thinned, and as even as possible."

PP. 162 and 163

PRUNING PEACHES, NECTARINES, AND APRICOTS

"This work may be done towards the latter end of this month; tho' you may execute it with equal success in the next.--[See January.)"

P. 163

STRAWBERRIES

"If you have not transplanted any strawberries before now, and would wish to have them produce a crop of fruit the next season, the work should not be longer delayed, but put in practice as soon as possible.

Early in this month let the old beds or borders of strawberries be carefully looked over, and all the dead runners, leaves, &c. be cut off and taken away, as well as all the useless plants where too thick, be taken out, and the earth loosened about those which remain.--Let good rich earth or very rotten dung be conveyed between the plants, which will not only strengthen them, but enrich the land so as to look neat all the winter, and produce fine fruit in the spring."

PP. 163 and 164

147

RASPBERRIES

"If your raspberries were not put out in the former. month, the earlier done now the better; and let them be planted in rows as before directed.

Also let the old raspberry beds be well examined, and the dead branches which bore fruit the last year taken out; and the young shoots properly thinned--throw some good rotten dung between them, and dig the alleys as mentioned in October."

P. 164

PLANTING FRUIT TREES, &c.

"Towards the latter end of this month you may plant out fruit trees; such as peaches, nectarines, apricots, apples, pears, plumbs, cherries, and grape vines--and let the same Rules be observed as mentioned in January."

P. 164

December

BEANS

"About the middle of this month prepare some good ground in a sheltered situation, for a successional crop of beans.

If you have not planted any before this period, let some of the mazagons be put in as early in this month as possible.

You may also plant some of the long podded, and Windsor, at the same time; as they will succeed each other in bearing.

Let the mazagons be planted in rows, two, or two and a half feet--the long podded two and a half, to three feet--and the Windsor three, or three and a half feet from row to row, and a proper distance in the rows, viz.--The first sort three inches--the second five inches--and the latter eight inches from each other.

If you have any beans that are up about two or three inches above the ground, let some earth be drawn up to their stems.--This work should be done in a mild, fine day, when the surface is perfectly dry: By this method you will not only preserve your plants in a great measure from the frost, but will support and strengthen them."

PP. 165 and 166

148

PEASE

"Sow more pease about the middle of this month, to succeed those which were sown in November; and in order to have a regular supply for the table.

If you neglected to sow any in the last month, do not delay it now; for the soon you perform this business the better.--I would recommend the early kinds at this seas which will come forward with some prospect of success, and nearly as soon as those so in the former month; as they are not so likely to be injured by the frost, and will probably bear a much greater crop.

Towards the latter end of this month, you may sow in a sheltered situation, some marrowfats and sugar pease.--These sorts will require sticking when they are three or four inches above the ground; and as they run very stately, your sticks ought to be at least five or six feet high; and your plants five or six feet from row to row; and not so thick in the rows as the early kinds.

This distance will appear very great at first; but be assured that your crop will be much the better for it, as it will admit of a free circulation of air between the rows.--You may if you think proper, plant cabbage plants between each row of pease.

Let the pease which was sown last month, have some earth drawn up to their stems as it will strengthen them greatly, and prevent the wet weather from rotting them near the ground.--If you was to stick a row of pine or any other ever-green bushes betwixt the rows, it would be of infinite service in breaking the cold wind, which very often cuts off the early crops of pease."

PP. 166 and 167

CABBAGES

"Near the latter end of this month, the cabbage plants that were sown in October, will be by this time fit to plant out.

Choose a piece of good ground in a sheltered part of the garden; and lay on it some good rotten dung, and dig it in a full spade deep--lay the surface even, and rake the stones away if any; and put out the early York,. cabbage plants in rows, about two feet from each other from row to row, and twenty inches in the rows; and let the sugar loaves be planted two feet every way; and allow the large kinds two feet and half by two feet.--If this crop is properly managed, they will make fine heads in April and May.

If you have a plenty of cabbage plants which were raised from English seed sown in September or October, it would be very adviseable to plant some between the rows of early beans and peas, to cut up for use in March, when you will find greens scarce let it be observed that the ground ought to be always fresh digged before you put out these plants this matter is of more consequence than many people are aware of."

PP. 167 and 168

149

CAULIFLOWERS

"Towards the latter end of this month, if your cauliflower plants (which were sown in October) are grown to a good size, let some of them be put out on the south border of your garden, if it is vacant--if not, the most warm and sheltered place that you can conveniently spare--let it be well manured, and dug a full spade deep--rake the ground even, and put out the plants in rows full two feet from each other.

The cauliflower plants which were put out in May and June last, will now begin to show their heads--you should therefore be very careful in protecting them from the frost.--For this purpose provide yourself with a number of hay, straw, or moss bands, well twisted together, binding the same round the stalks of your plants, beginning at the bottom close to the ground till you come up to about one third part of the leaves--let care be taken that you do not wind it too light round the leaves; but let the band be rather slack so as to afford the head sufficient room to swell;--you may tie the leaves together near their tops; for by this treatment you will not only preserve the cauliflowers from the frost, but will be the means also of rendering them perfectly white and beautiful to the eye.

Let the bands that are tied round the leaves be frequently examined; and see if the head has sufficient room to swell: if you find the band too tight, let it be loosened that the head may grow free and easy."

PP. 168 and 169

BROCOLI

"Let the ground between the last planted crop of brocoli be now hoed for the last time, and all the leaves which are fallen off between the rows taken away; and remember to let some earth be drawn up to the stems of those which require it."

P. 169

RADISHES

"Towards the latter end of this month, sow some short-top radishes for an early crop.

Let a good piece of ground be prepared as open to the sun as possible; and if your south border is not engaged, it would be the most proper place to sow your seed in at this season.

The border being properly manured and dug, sow the seed broad cast pretty thick: you may also sow a sprinkling of carrots with your radishes; for if one should fail the other may come on--the latter will arrive to perfection and fit to be drawn before the carrots are got to any size: therefore, should they both succeed, the growth of the one will be no impediment to the other.--If it is not convenient for you to sow carrots, spinage may be sown with an equal prospect of advantage."

PP. 169 and 170

150

LETTUCES

"Let a small piece of good ground be prepared towards the latter end of this month, (as open to the sun and as sheltered from the cold winds as possible) in order to sow some lettuce seed.

The best sorts for this sowing, are the brown Silesia cabbage, and brown Dutch, they being the most hardy kinds.

Let the seed be sown pretty thick and even--cast a little earth over it and rake the surface smooth.

Should the weather prove frosty after the plants are up, it would be very necessary to cover them over while in an infant state, every night with pine, or other ever-green bushes, which will in a great measure protect them from the frost, as well as forewarding their growth.

The lettuces which are out in beds or borders, should be now kept perfectly clean of weeds, and the ground often loosened between them, which will encourage their progress.

Was you to cover even these with bushes as above, in frosty nights, it may be the means of saving them frequently from destruction."

P. 170

SMALL SALADING

"Where small salading is required, you should sow some at least every ten or twelve days, in a situation that is open to the sun; and in drills as directed in the former months--should there be any appearance of a frost, it would not be amiss to lay straw or bushes lightly over the plants every night, as it will greatly preserve and cherish them."

P. 171

SPINAGE

"Let the beds and borders of spinage be kept perfectly clean of weeds, and the earth frequently loosened between the rows.

Where your plants are too thick, let them be properly thinned so as to stand not less than three or four inches from each other.

In gathering spinage let it be observed, that the large broad leaves should be cut first; and care ought to be taken that you do not injure the small ones, so as to destroy the whole at once."

P. 171

151

ONIONS

"If you have not already planted out your onions, let it be no longer neglected; and the earlier the work is attended to in this month the better.--Let a piece of good ground be prepared for them, and the plants put out as advised in the two former months.

The earliest planted onions should be now kept free from weeds, and the ground hoed frequently between them which will greatly forward your plants."

PP. 171 and 172

CARROTS

"If the weather is mild and dry towards the latter end of this month, let a piece of ground be put in proper order to receive some carrot seed--the best sort for this sowing is the early horn or short orange; as they will come in for use near a month sooner than the long orange.

It would be very necessary to give your ground a moderate dressing with good rotten dung turned in well, which divided into beds four feet wide, sowing four rows of carrot seed on each bed, but not too thick--you may if you choose, sow a sprinkling of short top radishes with your carrots.

Let it be observed, that it must be the true orange carrot seed this is to be sown at this season: for if you sow the pale degenerated kind, it will be running to seed in May--when the roots from the European seed will be in their highest perfection."

P. 172

CELERY

"Make choice of a fine dry day to earth up such celery as stand in need of it.--In performing this work great care should be taken that the earth do not fall into the hearts of the plants, by which it would greatly injure their growth, if not entirely destroy them.

Should severe weather now set in, let your plants which are in the ground be carefully protected from the frost, by laying straw or some other covering that may be most convenient over the rows:--But if the ground should be very wet where your celery is planted, let some of the best of it be taken up and put into a dry, warm border, pretty thick, which you may take up for use whenever required."

PP. 172 and 173

152

ARTICHOKES

"If the artichokes were not dressed up and properly managed in the last month, it should be no longer postponed; for it is now high time this work was done.--[See Oct.]"

P. 174

ASPARAGUS

"If your asparagus beds were not forked; dunged and dressed in the last month, it should be done as soon as possible in this.--[See October.]

If you recollect I recommended cabbage and.lettuce plants to be put out on the asparagus beds in October last, after they were dressed; but it will now be too late in the season--for before your cabbages or lettuces (on these beds) would arrive to any perfection, they would require their spring dressing."

P. 174

PRUNE PEACH, NECTARINE AND APRICOT TREES

"At any time in this month you may prune peach, nectarine and apricot trees; either dwarfs, espaliers or standards.

Let the trees be well examined, and all the useless shoots taken out, leaving the prime bearing ones at proper and regular distances; tho' if the trees be young and in a weakly state, let the shoots be shortened according to their strength: but if strong and vigorous, let them be managed as directed in January."

PP. 174 and 175

PRUNING OLD STANDARD APPLE AND PEAR TREES

"If you have omitted pruning the old standard trees in the orchard, let this busness be now attended to; and displace all dead and decayed limbs that you may find in any of the trees; and let the young branches be properly thinned."

P. 175

153

PRUNE PLUMB AND CHERRY TREES

"You may also prune your plumb and cherry trees at any time in this month, if not done before.

Let it be observed that these trees do not bear their fruit from the last year's shoots (the morrell cherry excepted) but are produced generally from short spurs, sometimes two, three and four years's old; which should never be cut off but in some particular cases; but where these short spurs are forced by bad management, they will produce strong and vigorous shoots; the most irregular and unkind of which should be cut away; for the more you stop them, the more strong the shoots will become; and as long as you continue shortening the shoots at this season, be assured they will not produce any fruit-bearing spurs."

P. 175

PRUNING YOUNG VINES THE FIRST YEAR AFTER PLANTING

"The young vines which were planted out in the last season, should be now looked over; as they will probably have produced some (more or less) young shoots, the last summer.

These shoots should be all shortened within three eyes of the old wood, in order to make them put out with more vigour the next year."

P. 176

PRUNING VINES THE SECOND YEAR AFTER PLANTING

"As these vines were headed down very short the first year after planting, it is to be supposed that some of them have made three, four, and perhaps six fine and strong kindly shoots, eight or ten feet long.--These shoots, some over-wise people will lay in six or eight feet the second year--but such practice I by no means approve of: for the running them out so long before the plants are well established in the ground, will weaken them so much, that with all the art you are possessed of, it will be three or four years before your young vines will have acquired sufficient strength to produce good wood, without which there will be no prospect of fine fruit; therefore let the shoots be shortened the second year also, to within four or five eyes of the last year's wood; and the third season they will with proper care cover an arbor eight feet wide and ten feet high, with fine fruit-bearing shoots.--By this treatment your vines will acquire proper strength, and may probably produce some fine fruit the next summer."

154

PRUNING VINES THIRD YEAR AFTER PLANTING

"By this time your vines will have acquired strength, if managed as before directed; and may have produced. on each plant from eight to twelve fine bearing shoots, which should be also shortened according to their strength, leaving the strongest of them after pruned, at least five feet; and if very strong, six feet will not be too much.

Then let them be tied to the frame ten inches or a foot from each other:--Tho' this distance may seem great at this season, you will find your arbor compleatly shaded in the summer.--For the further management of these I refer you to the next head on pruning old vines."

P. 177

PRUNING OLD VINES

"If the vines were not pruned last month, let this necessary work-be no longer delayed, but done as soon as possible; it being now a proper time for performing it.

In the first place let all the last summer's shoots which have sprung out of the old wood and branches be cut away; except in such particular places where they are absolutely wanted in the ensuing year: in such a case only they are to remain; but let them be shortened with two or three good eyes from the old wood.--By cutting the shoots so short it will be the means of their producing strong and kindly ones, which may probably prove fruitful the summer after next.

Observe in the next place, that all the short shoots which were suffered to remain in the last spring (for the purpose of bearing fruit only) should be now examine and the most weakly and ill-placed of them be cut away; leaving the prosperous and most healthy shoots about ten or twelve inches from each other; and shortened so as not to have more than one or two good eyes (or as the gardener's call them spurs) to your vines; which will produce good fruit in the next season.

Thirdly and lastly, let all the shoots which were laid in the last summer, be carefully looked over; and all the side shoots from the principal bearing young branches be cut away quite close from whence they proceed; as they will neither bear good fruit, nor produce good wood, being always of a rambling and irregular growth.--This being done, shorten the shoots which are left, agreeable to the state and strength of each, as in the following manner.

Your young shoots will now require great attention, and must be shortened accordingly:--The most weakly should be cut back within three or four eyes of the old wood, in order to render them strong and healthy by the ensuing summer;--those of a middling strength should be taken off within five or six eyes, whilst those that are strong and luxuriant may be (where there is sufficient room) permitted to remain with eight or twelve, and even from twelve to sixteen eyes; tho' let it be observed, that this treatment is only intended for old grown grape vines."

PP. 177-179

155

PLANTING OF VINES

"At any time in this month you may plant out young vines where required.

Choose for this purpose some good young plants of one and not more than two years old.--If you put them out for an arbor (which is the most approved method) let holes be dug where you intend your plants to grow, about three feet wide and eighteen inches deep--put therein a barrow full of rich earth mixed with some good rotten dung,' planting the young vines near the frame about five or six feet from each other, and pressing your foot gently round the plant to fix the earth."

P. 179

APPLES, PEARS, PEACHES, NECTARINES, APRICOTS, PLUMBS AND CHERRIES

"At any time in this month you may transplant any of the above fruit trees by way of espaliers, in your garden.

If you plant plumbs or cherries, to train on a frame, they should be put out about fourteen feet from each other, and near one foot six inches from the walk.

If you was to dig a hole about two feet wide and one foot deep, putting therein some good rich earth mixed with a little dung, it would be of great service to the young trees.

But let it be observed, that you do not plant trees of any kind too deep: for this is of more consequence than may people are possibly aware of.

Should you wish to plant out peach, nectarine or apricot trees, you ought to plant them at least eighteen feet distant from each other, but not too deep, as cautioned before.

Apple and pear trees being of a more vigorous and lasting growth, should be planted twenty foot or more one from the other: this distance may appear very wide at first, but they will soon extend so as to meet on the frame if your ground is good and the trees are managed in a proper manner."

PP. 179 and 180

156

RASPBERRIES

"If you have not planted out as many raspberries as you would wish, this season, you may still do it; tho' the sooner this work is performed the better:--But if it is not convenient for you to execute it early in this month, you may delay it till the latter end of the next.

If you have not as yet given your old beds of raspberries their winter dressing, it should be done as soon as possible, as the young plants will greatly improve and . flourish if earthed up in proper season."

PP. 180 and 181

STRAWBERRIES

"If you have not put out any strawberries before now, let the work be no longer delayed; for if the plants are not put out early in this month, it had better be postponed till the latter end of January, when they will take root more freely than about Christmas.

Let the old strawberry beds be well examined if not done in the former months, and all the dead runners and leaves be cut away, and the earth loosened between the plants, which will strengthen them so as to bear fine fruit the next spring.--[See November.]"

P. 181

Garden Calendar: A Compilation of Eighteenth-Century
Virginia and South Carolina Sources
^{[part 2]}

by
D. Luann Saunders
Introduction
by
Patricia A. Gibbs

Research Department
Colonial Williamsburg Foundation

June 1984

157

A TREATISE ON GARDENING
By a Citizen of Virginia

John Randolph, Jr. (
1727-
1784)

REPRINTED FROM
The
AMERICAN GARDENER
Of
John Gardiner and David Hepburn
Third Edition

1826

Edited by
M. F. Warner
Reprinted by
APPEALS PRESS, Inc.
For the WILLIAM PARKS CLUB

RICHMOND
,
1924

158

The annexed little TREATISE was written many years ago, by a learned and eminent CITIZEN OF VIRGINIA, who delighted in directing under his own eye the cultivation of his garden, and who printed it for the use of friends, by whom it has been long and highly prized for the useful information it conveys in a small compass, and without the introduction of a useless word.

The residence of the author, and his garden, from which he drew his observations, were in Williamsburg, Virginia.

Those who consult the Treatise, will know from this hint, how to make a proper allowance according to variance in climate, for the seasons and times of sowing, planting, &c.

EDITOR OF AMERICAN GARDENER

159

Introduction

Rarity, which is the spice of book collecting, and anonymity, the despair of the cataloger and inspiration of the bibliographer, have both contributed to the interest of this little Treatise. Not only are no copies of the first or any other eighteenth century edition known to be in existence today, but we have no trace of their form or their exact dates of issue, and even the nineteenth century reprints of the work are becoming scarce. And the identity of the author, which must have been known to many persons a century ago, has with the lessening use of the book been lost to memory. The data in regard to its authorship are so obscurely located that they had been entirely overlooked for many years prior to 1916, when it was shown by A. J. Morrison in the William and Mary College Quarterly, that the Treatise on Gardening, by a Citizen of Virginia, was written by John Randolph (1727-1784), of Williamsburg the last Attorney General of Virginia under the Crown.

Although no contemporary evidence has been found, there are two early statements explicitly crediting this work to Randolph, the most authoritative being that of Edmund Ruffin in his reprint of the Treatise on Gardening in the Farmers' Register for 1839:

The author was John Randolph, of Williamsburg, attorney general under the colonial government. The date of the work is not shown by anything in the oldest edition which we have seen, which is as late as 1794…The later edition has many modern additions; but…we prefer to give the work in its original form; which was without the name of the author…

[VI]

Coming from Ruffin, this is almost indisputable proof, as he was in a position to know at first hand, in 1839, many facts in regard to the agricultural history of Virginia which have since been forgotten. The other definite attribution is a manuscript note on the first page of the Treatise, in the copy of the second edition of Gardiner and Hepburn's American Gardener (Georgetown, 1818), belonging to the Massachusetts Horticultural Society. This reads as follows:

This treatise is by John Randolph, of Williamsburg, father of Edmund Randolph, Secretary of State during the administration of General Washington.

Being unsigned and undated, this does not at first seem reliable evidence, but it conveys some interesting implications. Though not certainly, this volume was probably the gift of Gen. Henry Alexander Scammell Dearborn (1783-1851), who was greatly instrumental in building up the library of the Society, and in 1831 compiled a catalogue of its' books in which this was included. His father, Gen. Henry Dearborn (1751-1829), was Secretary of War in Jefferson's cabinet. The son entered the College of William and Mary in 1801, and graduated there in 1803, afterwards studying law with William Wirt. Randolph's work must undoubtedly have been in use in Williamsburg during his residence there, and although the handwriting of this note has not been satisfactorily identified, it is likely that the information came through Dearborn, possibly by way of Wirt or Jefferson.

These categorical statements are supplemented by other data, notably several entries for the Treatise on Gardening under the name of John Randolph, by Thomas Jefferson, who was on intimate terms with the attorney and could scarcely have referred to anyone else of the name. Jefferson evidently valued this work very highly, as he owned a number of copies at different [VII] times is his life, and recommended it among titles for an agricultural library. The only copy of any eighteenth century edition which has ever been definitely located, is one supposed to have been published in 1793, which was among the books bought from Jefferson in 1814 to form the Library of Congress, and was destroyed by the fire of 1851. Another evidence of Randolph's authorship is furnished by the note, reprinted in the present edition, by the editor of the American Gardener of 1818, presumably the publisher, Joseph Milligan. This credits the Treatise to "a learned and eminent CITIZEN OF VIRGINIA … who printed it for the use of his friends, by whom it has been long and highly prized," and further states that "the residence of the author, and his garden, from which he drew his observations, were in Williamsburg, Virginia." The edition of the Treatise under the title of Randolph's Culinary Gardener (Richmond, 1826), throws little light on the subject, as it merely purports to be previously written by a "Mr. Randolph," now revised and brought up to date by "M." The latter I have failed to identify, although I have unsuccessfully attempted to trace the work to several contemporary Virginia writers on agricultural topics whose names begin with this initial, including ex-President James Madison whose residence in Williamsburg before the Revolution, and active interest in agriculture, might have presupposed a knowledge of Randolph's book, but I have failed to discover it.

The Treatise on Gardening may have been printed at first for private circulation among the friends of the author, or possibly issued as a supplement to the Virginia Gazette, of which no complete file is known today. In either case it is not strange that the work in its original form has not been preserved. Inventories of early American libraries show very few agricultural books, although some of the English works on [VIII] husbandry and gardening were owned by Randolph's contemporaries, but I cannot find that any of them had a copy of his book, if we except Jefferson, who perhaps had no issue earlier than that of 1793. It may seem curious that Randolph's book cannot be traced in the literature of the time, but the work probably did rot reach England, and so is not mentioned in periodicals like the Monthly Register and Gentleman's Magazine, while any notices published in America were probably in a form even more ephemeral than the book itself.

The actual records of John Randolph's life are meager. The son of Sir John Randolph, who is said to have been the only native American ever knighted, he was born in Williamsburg in 1727 (according to some in 1728). He was graduated from the College of William and Mary, and went to England to study law, being admitted to Middle Temple April 18, 1745, and called to the bar February 9, 1749. He returned to Williamsburg, where he became one of the most successful lawyers of the colony, and was appointed Attorney General of Virginia in 1766. He had married in 1752 Ariana, daughter of Edmund Jennings, Attorney General of Maryland, and had three children: Edmund, born 1753, and two daughters, Ariana and Susannah. As an officer of the Crown he remained loyal to the mother country at the outset of the Revolution, and leaving Virginia in August, 1775, took his wife and daughters to England, where he spent the remainder of his life in poverty and obscurity, dying in Brompton, January 31, 1784. In accordance with his wish to be buried in his native Virginia, his remains were brought back and placed beneath the college chapel of William and Mary, beside those of his father and his brother Peyton.

There is no record of Randolph as an author, although he is represented as a man of literary tastes and the possessor of a fine library. It has, however, been [IX] established that he wrote the Considerations on the Present State of Virginia, a rare political tract published anonymously in 1774. The utter diversity of the subject matter doubtless accounts for the fact that its style has nothing in common with that of his garden book.

Although we have no knowledge of the first publication of the Treatise, we can approximate the period in which it was written. This is in part determined by its contents, which are chiefly compiled from Miller's Gardeners Dictionary, a work which not only marks an epoch in English gardening, but is also a botanical authority of prime importance. Although its numerous editions spread over three-quarters of the eighteenth century, it has been proved by detailed comparison that Randolph used either the sixth folio, published in 1752, or its Abridgement, published in 1754, which differ in many particulars from the editions which precede or follow. But he evidently did not write his Treatise until after he had practised the instructions of the Gardeners Dictionary for some years, as he frequently remarks on his own experience with Miller's methods. One bit of evidence suggests that the book was not written until after 1758, as "Col. Turner of King George, who was eminent for cauliflowers," must have been Thomas Turner, of Walsingham on the Rappahannock, who died in that year, and the use of the past tense intimates that this was written after Turner's death. Colonel Ludwell, who gave the author seed of Aleppo lettuce, must have been Philip Ludwell (1716-1767 ), of Green Spring. He also is mentioned in time past, possibly after he had gone back to live in England in 1761 or 1762. Although the book might have been written at any time before Randolph fled to England in 1775, it is reasonable to suppose that his leisurely pursuit of gardening would have been gradually displaced by the political and legal affairs of the colony, in which he began to take a conspicuous part soon after; [X] his appointment as King's Attorney in 1766, and I am inclined to place the Treatise on Gardening in the decade between 1760 and 1770, perhaps not later than 1765. A few gardeners' calendars had previously been printed in America, one of them, by Mrs. Martha Logan, of Charleston, being issued early in the seventeen-fifties and many times reprinted, but Randolph's book is not only, as stated by Ruffin: "The oldest Virginian work on cultivation, of any kind;" but is certainly the first manual of gardening ever published in America, and the only one for perhaps half a century which was not in calendar form.

If Randolph had contented himself with merely condensing those portions of the Gardeners Dictionary which were of most importance to Virginia cultivators, his work would have been of great utility during the eighteenth century, and indeed down to the time when manuals of gardening began to be numerous in America. But although the varieties he mentions are now mostly extinct and the varieties he mentions are now mostly extinct and the recommended practices have given place to others, his little book has an imperishable interest for the student of agricultural history because of its careful adaptation of English methods to the Virginia conditions, and his comments, although few, as to varieties peculiar or specially suited to Virginia. For the history of agriculture is essentially concerned with the period and locality of experimentation, and these traces of Virginia gardening, when definitely referred to the pre-Revolutionary period, constitute the chief value of the subject matter at the present day.

Randolph's most noticeable contributions to gardening are those relating to climate, and the careful reader will find many notes of differences between England and Virginia. He carefully alters Miller's directions for spring cauliflowers, "allowing for the difference of climate, the ratio of which ought to be a month sooner in the Spring, and the same later in the Fall," [XI] and he finds the Virginia winters too severe to permit sowing radishes in October, as done by the London gardeners for an early spring crop. In general he follows Miller accurately, but not slavishly. He thinks the English practice of sowing spinach for successive spring crops does not work well in this country, where it is apt to run to seed. The second crop of cucumbers need not be grown in hot-beds, but will flourish in hills, if properly weeded and watered. His experience shows that strawberries can be successfully transplanted when in full bloom, although it is usually done in September or February. And without having seen any directions for so doing, he finds that the single stalk method of pruning is best for currants. Only the small fruits peculiar to the kitchen garden, the gooseberry, currant, strawberry and raspberry are included in the Treatise, and it is disappointing to find no allusion to the pleasure garden, if we except a curt paragraph on the honeysuckle, "which may be removed in bloom for the sake of a prospect, and replaced when out of bloom:" He gives many medicinal and savory herbs, but very briefly, and I suspect that some of this information is pure compilation. If the potato and cabbage occupy comparatively little space, it is perhaps because the former had not yet become indispensable to our tables, while the latter was so generally grown that it did not require exhaustive treatment. His neglect of the beet is not so surprising as his silence in regard to those luxuries and necessities of the Virginia diet, the sweet potato and the watermelon. On the other hand, the attention given to cucumber and cauliflower, to artichoke, celery and asparagus, indicates the esteem in which these vegetables were held in Randolph's day. The "collyflower" was an inexhaustible topic for commendation or disparagement. George Fisher, after several years' residence in America, partly at Williamsburg, visited Philadelphia in 1765, and found there [XII] no cauliflowers worthy of the name; the only good ones he had eaten were grown in Virginia and Maryland. Had he perhaps tasted those from Randolph's garden, or even one grown by the "eminent" Col. Turner?

The kitchen garden has always been important in Virginia. In 1624 there was an act requiring the settlers to plant gardens, of course at that time a provision against famine; and there are early notes on the products of the colony, showing that fruits and vegetables grown in England could be raised equally well there, also many from warmer climates. Beverly, in his History of Virginia (London, 1705), gives considerable information on its agriculture and resources, but says "They haven't many gardens in that country, fit to bear the name of gardens," and this was echoed eighty years later by J. D. Schoepf, a very keen observer, who concluded that really fine gardens were the exception in Virginia, probably because the soils were so fertile and climate conducive to the production of an abundance and variety of vegetables without much labor or care. This idea receives other support. William Mayo, of Goochland, writing in 1731 to a friend in Barbados who had sent him "Yams, Eddoes, &c," remarks that "such things will not come to such perfection in this climate as to be worth the Pains of Planting, and the great plenty of other good things that we have made them the less wanted." Hugh Jones, in his Present State of Virginia (London, 1724), claims that nearly every food plant grown in England flourishes as well or better in Virginia, while "The worst thing in their Gardens, that I know, is the Artichoak, but this I attribute to Want of Skill and good Management." Filippo Mazzei, a Florentine who experimented largely with viticulture and wine-making in the vicinity of Williamsburg between 1773 and 1783, thought the English and Scotch gardeners commonly employed by Virginia gentlemen did not succeed with the rarer [XIII] vegetables because of their unfamiliarity with the climate. For instance, they never had any chicory fit to eat, while that raised by the Italian peasants he had brought over to care for his vineyards, was equal to any grown in Europe, simply because the Italians were trained in the agriculture of a warm climate. But I have never found any accounts of Virginian methods of vegetable growing, save those of Randolph. Although many Europeans, and also residents of the Northern colonies, visited Virginia in the period shortly before the Revolution, they have left few observations on its gardening. Most of the data on the subject are fragmentary; bits in letters and diaries and household accounts, in regard to planting and yield of fruits and vegetables, and wages of garden labor; items in old newspapers about weather injuries to crops; advertisements of a great variety of garden seeds, and occasionally an announcement of an estate or town dwelling to be sold "with all its appurtenances, including a large and well-furnished garden." Much material of this kind is doubtless to be found in manuscripts still unexplored, and some of it may yet throw light on the origin of the Treatise on Gardening and pursuits of its author.

The various editions of the Treatise on Gardening differ very little, the cultural instructions being identical in all. The one entitled: Randolph's Culinary Gardener (Richmond, 1826) contains important supplementary matter by its editor "M:", both on new methods and on vegetables which had probably come into use in the half-century since the original work was written. This edition must have been as valuable in its time as was that of Randolph in his own, as "M" is equally careful in his adaptations to the Virginia climate and practices. Its historical value, however, applies to the first quarter of the nineteenth century, instead of the third quarter of the eighteenth. Ruffin's reprint (Farmers' Register, 1839), which claims to [XIV] "give the work to the public in its original form," includes many and full derivations for the botanical names, which are mostly shortened if not entirely omitted in the third edition of Gardener and Hepburn's American Gardener (Washington City, 1826), from which the present reprint is made. Randolph evidently noted carelessly from the Gardeners Dictionary anything which interested him about the names or origin of his vegetables, and this matter has doubtless suffered more or less in successive reprintings, so that it would be unfair to judge his classical scholarship thereby. In the present edition no attempt has been made to restore the extended notes on plant names, or even to correct spellings which are sanctioned by other editions, and the changes are strictly limited to obvious typographical errors in the issue from which it is reprinted. The project of this new edition of Randolph's Treatise on Gardening originated with Mr. Fairfax Harrison, who has shown so much interest in the investigation of Virginia history, and who by his admirable English versions has roused fresh appreciation of some of the Latin agricultural classics.

MARJORIE FLEMING WARNER.
Columbia, S. C., January, 1924.

169

Bibliography

Although "A Treatise on Gardening by a Citizen of Virginia" must have been published before the American Revolution, it is not known when or where it was first printed. All eighteenth century issues are supposed to have appeared without the author's name. An edition was published at Richmond in 1793, but no copy of this can now be found. The following have been located:

1818. Georgetown, D. C., Joseph Milligan. With Gardiner, John, and Hepburn, David. The American gardener, 2d edition. 1818.
1826. Richmond, Collins & Co. Title reads: Randolph's culinary gardener, enlarged and adapted to the present state of our climate, by an experienced gardener, a native of Virginia. (Notes by "M.")
1826. Washington City, William Cooper, Jr. With Gardiner, John, and Hepburn, David. The American gardener. 3d edition. 1826.
1839. Richmond, Edmund Ruffin. In Farmers' Register, v. 7, p. 41-54.

For bibliographical discussion see the following:

Morrison, A. J. A treatise on gardening by a citizen of Williamsburg. William & Mary Coll. Quart., v. 25, p. 138-139. 1916.
The gardener of Williamsburg. William & Mary Coll. Quart., v. 25, p. 166-167. 1917.
Warner, M. F. The earliest American book on kitchen gardening. Ann. Rep. Amer. Hist. Assoc, 1919, v. 1, p. 431-442. 1923.

170

A
TREATISE ON GARDENING.
BY A CITIZEN OF VIRGINIA.

ARTICHOKES, known to botanical writers by the name of Cynara, are to be propagated either from the seed, which are to be gathered from the choke or flower at the head of the Artichoke, or from slips, which are to be separated from the main stalk by the edge of the hand, and transplanted. If these offsets are good, they will be of a whitish colour about the heel, and will have some little root to them. If you have plenty of ground, put three slips in a hill, and let the hills be four feet asunder, and the rows the same; but if you are scanty with regard to your land, you must cut your coat according to your cloth. About March, or the beginning of April, you are annually to slip off all the lateral branches with your hand, and leave only the three principal stalks in your hill. Every spring they ought to be dunged : sheep dung and ashes are not only the best for that purpose, but also for preparing the ground for them. If you have depth of mould enough, i. e. two feet, and you don't crop your ground with any thing else, your Artichokes will remain good a number of years; but if they are 2 any ways neglected, or the ground is tended, they will not only be injured in their growth, but will very much degenerate in five years. When planted out, they should be well watered, if not in a wet season, and be kept clean from weeds. There are various methods of preserving them from the severity of winter. Some cut them doom within afoot of the earth, and cover them with a hill or ridge, leaving a small hole at the top, which is covered with dung. I have found from many years' experience, that tong dung is an enemy to them, and that the best way to preserve them is, by laying straw on the surface of the ground, over their roots. This preserves the leaves from rotting which fall down from the frost, and, united, afford such a protection to the plant, that not one in fifty will perish. They never flourish in a dripping situation, but like a low place, not too wet, but very rich. When you cut them, cut the stalks quite down to the ground, which strengthens the plants, and makes them forwarder in the spring. There will be many on a stalk, but all must be pulled off except that which is on the centre of the main stalk, if you propose having them fine. If you prick out the slips in the spring, you may have a succession till the fall. The leaves of Artichokes, I have been informed, clean pewter the best of any thing. There are different sorts, but two only that are much propagated. First, Foliis aculeatis i. e. with prickly leaves. Second, Foliis non aculeatis capite subrubente, i. e. without prickly leaves, and with a smooth and reddish head. The 3 latter is most preferred. There is the Cynara spinosa, which is to be cultivated and eaten like celery, and which produces a head with the seed not unlike the Artichoke, from whence it took its name. The common name is chardoon, or cardoon. The Jerusalem Artichoke, (Helianthus,) is only a species of the Sun-flower, with a tuberous root, not unlike a Potatoe. Some admire them, but they are of a flatulent nature, and are apt to cause commotions in the belly.

ASPARAGUS...Growth, a young shoot; are to be propagated either from the seed or roots. The seed are contained in those things which look like red berries. These are to be gathered from the most flourishing stalks, and laid in a tub for about three weeks to ferment. This will rot the husks, which will swim upon being rubbed between the hands, and having water poured upon them, but the seed will go to the bottom. Pour the water off gently, and the husks will he carried along with it. This being done two or three times, the seed will become perfectly clean. They are then to be laid on a mat or dish, and exposed to the sun to dry. When that is done, they may be put into a bag and pricked out in February or March, in beds about a foot asunder every way, and never to be transplanted. But if they are to be transplanted, they may be sown as thick as you do Cabbage. If you propagate from the roots, those of a year old are most eligible, though if two, they will succeed very well. In planting them out, they should be placed about four inches 4 under the surface of the ground, with the bud erect, against the side of the earth perpendicularly cut, so that the extremity of the roots may touch each other. This will put them about a foot asunder; the best time for transplanting them is when they begin to shoot, but before they appear above ground. The principal thing to be regarded with these plants, is the bed in which they are to be placed. A great apparatus was formerly made use of, but now seems on all hands to be disregarded. Nothing more is necessary than to make your beds perfectly rich and light, that the head may not be obstructed in its growth upwards. Two feet of mould and dung is depth sufficient for any plant. They are to be kept clean from weeds, and nothing sown upon the beds. The fourth year from the seed they may be cut moderately, but it is better to wait till the fifth. About October the haum should be cut down, and the beds covered with rotten dung about six inches, part of which may be taken off in February or March, and the remainder forked up in the beds, which will not only assist the roots, but raise the beds in some small degree yearly, which is an advantage. A spade is a very prejudicial instrument to them. Cut with a blunt pointed knife (some use a saw) and separate the earth from the plant, and cut it so as not to endanger the head of another that may be shooting up. There are joints in the roots of them Sparrow grass like the Wire grass, from every one of which a head is produced. Butchers' dung is what it delights in. I would recommend your beds 5 to be about four feet wide, that the grass may be cut without treading on the beds, which often hardens the earth so much that the grass cannot come up, and must of course perish. In these beds I would have three rows; for the roots ought to have a sufficient quantity of earth on all sides. Beds thus managed, Miller¹ says, will last ten or twelve years; Bradley² says twenty, and I am inclined to join with the latter.

BEANS, vide, faba, gr. to eat³, delight in a fine rich stiff soil, without dung, though that must be supplied where the lands are poor. To have fine beans, especially of the Windsor sort, which are much the best, they ought to be planted six inches asunder, in rows three feet distant from one another, in the wane of the moon (as it is vulgarly said), and under a hedge, which serves for a shelter. When the flowers begin to open towards the bottom of the stalk, the tops should be pinched off, though it is as good a season as any to do it in, when the blossoms are well blown and set. If you want an early crop, plant them in October, and hill them up as they grow, and shelter them; if a second crop, cut them down within two or three inches of the ground before they bear fruit. Don't pull the bean, cut it with a knife. The first production is the properest of all seeds for sowing. When the seed is ripe, you must pull up the stalks and sun them, observing to turn them every day or two. Beans, like all other seed, degenerate in the same ground, wherefore it is 6 advisable to change your seed, and the beds they grew in.

KIDNEY BEAN, Phaseolus, a long swift ship⁴, which the husk resembles, may be planted in March; if sooner, they must be well sheltered, for they are easily killed, in a light fertile soil, in trenches about two and a half feet asunder, each grain two inches distant from the next, and one inch deep. They will not bear transplanting. They should be planted in a dry season. The Dutch sort, which is the common kind, should be stuck, otherwise they will lie on the ground and rot. This sort, if stuck, grow to a great height, and afford a constant succession. A second sowing will supply you sufficiently the season. If, when you plant, it should be a dry season, water the furrows or trenches before you drop the seed in. French Beans and snaps are the same. The Dutch sort are not so apt to be stringy, which the dwarf sort are.

BUSHEL or SUGAR BEANS, being of a tender nature, should not be planted till April, which is the best season, in hills made light and rich, about three to the hill, so as to admit a stake in the middle of them. They will grow round the stake to a great height. will bear very profusely, and continue till destroyed by frost. They are esteemed very delicate, and are of various colours, as white, marbled, green &c.

CABBAGE, &c. Under Brassica is included all the several species of the Cabbage, among which Cauliflowers and Brocoli are classed. The proper 7 time for sowing the seed of Brocoli is in the latter end of May, and transplant them into beds when they have eight leaves, and plant them out about the latter end of July, in a place well sheltered, not under the drip of trees, in a soil rather light than otherwise. About December, it is said, they will have purple heads, which are eaten, though I myself could never make them head before March. The distance these require is about two feet every way, though more would do better, if there is plenty of ground. The Roman Brocoli is the proper sort to cultivate, otherwise called the Italian Brocoli. When you cut the flowers or heads, cut to about five or six inches of the stem, and before they are boiled, strip off the skin, and after having washed them, boil them in a clean cloth and serve them up with butter, as Cauliflowers are. The stems will eat like Asparagus, and the heads like Cauliflowers.

The common WHITE CABBAGE, capitata alba, is the proper sort for winter. It is long sided and flat. The seeds should be sown in April or March, and if they should grow long shanked, they should be pricked out till the middle of May, when they are to be transplanted to stand at about two and a half feet distance from one another, and three and a half row from row. Three things are necessary to Cabbages as well as other vegetables … to be watered in a dry season, hilled up if they grow long shanked, and kept clear of weeds, which draw the nourishment from the plants and make them spindle. In November take up your Cabbages by the 8 roots, and plant them under a ridge of earth, with the tops of their heads to the south, covering the stems entirely; this. will protect them the whole winter. If they are hard and compact when thus placed out, they will be sufficiently protected, and though the outside leaves may be affected by the frost, yet the hearts will remain entire.

The SAVOY CABBAGES, which are esteemed best when pinched by the frost, are to be treated in the same manner as the white, only they may be planted nearer one another, not being a long sort.

The BATTERSEA CABBAGE is the earliest of all, and head in a short time, and burst if not cut soon:

But the SUGAR LOAF, which is the finest, will remain a considerable time. These should be sown every month, and transplanted every season.

The BORECOLE, is treated like the white Cabbage, and need not be above a foot asunder. These are tough till the frost has made them tender.

There is a Cabbage which is called the RUSSIA kind. They are very small, and soon degenerate, if the seed is not changed.

There is a TURNEP CABBAGE, which being very strong, is fit only for soup.

The seed of the Curled COLEWORT are to be sown in July, about twelve inches asunder.

There is a MUSK CABBAGE, remarkable for its tasting like musk, and is to be treated in the common manner. I have met with these in Virginia, but Miller says, they are not propagated much in England, though the most delicious.⁵

The common COLEWORTS should be sown the beginning of July, and transplanted. There is a perenial Colewort, which will in poor land remain four years, but in rich not above two, before they go to seed. In order to save the seed of Cabbage, they should be taken out of the ground in November, and put under a hedge, or other sheltered place, buried up to the middle of the Cabbage, and in the spring they will begin to sprout and produce their seed. If the season should be dry, they should be assisted with moisture, and the stems should be supported. When the pods begin to be brown, cut off the extreme part of every branch or shoot. When your seeds are ripe, they should be cut off, threshed out when dry, and put into bags. By planting the several sorts of Cabbages together, as white and red, &c. there is a commixture of the effluvia of each, and each are vitiated, which is the reason, Miller imagines, why seed so soon degenerates in gardens, as gardeners are either negligent or unskilful in this particular, too generally.

CAULIFLOWERS, must be sown critically to a day, or else there is no dependence on the success of them. I cannot, nor do I find any one else capable of assigning a good reason for this, but the experience of this country, as well as England, verifies the proposition. We must therefore receive this fact as we do many others, rest ourselves satisfied, that the thing certainly exists, though the mode of existence is an impenetrable secret to us. Miller says, that for spring Cauliflowers the seed should 10 be sown on the 10th or 12th of August⁶ but in Virginia, the 12th day of September is the proper time, which is much the game as in England, allowing for the difference of climate, the ratio of which ought to be a month sooner in the spring, and the same later in the fall; our summer months being so intensely hot in this place,⁷ they should continue until the 20th of October, where they are to remain all the winter protected from the inclemency of the weather, and towards the latter end of February, the plants should be drawn and planted in a good spot of ground for a crop, about three and a half feet asunder, Miller says; bur I think six much better, on account of the earth it takes to hill them up when rampant. Gardeners are divided with regard to the manner of preserving them in winter, and after they are planted out in February. Glasses are generally mentioned in the books of gardening as most proper, but later experience seems to contradict this position, because they make the plant spindle, which is to be feared and guarded against in Cauliflowers, as they have a natural tendency towards luxuriancy, and therefore it is said that boxes, pyramidically formed, answer the purpose much better, for they equally protect plants from frost, afford them full room to germinate, and at the same time do not draw them to such an inordinate length as glasses are too apt to do, even with the best management. In order to have Cauliflowers in the fall, you should sow your seed on the 12th day of April, and transplant them into beds to restrain their growth, and in July fix 11 them out to stand. As they grow they should be hilled up, otherwise when they head, the winds will be apt to injure them. A rich light soil is what they delight in most. Col. Turner, of King George,⁸ who was eminent for Cauliflowers, had a method peculiar to himself for some years of managing them, which succeeded beyond any other. He dug trenches about a foot and a half wide, quite down to the clay. With this he mixed with a spade some long dung, into which he put his plants about five feet asunder, when they were fit to be transplanted; and as they grew, hilled them up with the best mould. This method answered the purpose of transplantation, for the clay repressed the growth of the plant, and the warmth of the dung afforded them just heat enough to live, as they might without it perish for want of nourishment. I have myself found this method succeed best. Virgin mould is preferable to every other sort. The gardeners near London have wholly abandoned the practice of watering their Cauliflower plants in the summer, as a thing very injurious to them, and Mr. Miller coincides in opinion with them. Radishes or Spinach sown amongst the Cauliflowers, so as not to interfere with them, will preserve them from the fly, being a more agreeable food to that destructive animal. When your Cauliflowers begin to flower, the inner leaves should be broken over them, otherwise the sun will soil their snowy colour, and as they spread, the larger leaves should be served in the same manner. Some pin the outer leaves with a stick, but this is a 12 malpractice, because it often binds the flower, that it cannot grow to that size it otherwise might do. In November, when you have apprehensions as to the approach of intense frosts, take your Cauliflowers up by the roots in a morning, with as much mould as you can, and put them in the ground, in a hole dug about two feet below the surface, well sheltered by straw or thatching, as near one another as you please, and cut them as you have occasion. They may be preserved in this manner the greatest part of the winter, though they acquire an earthy taste from their confined situation. They are not so delicate in the winter or fall as they are in May, notwithstanding in May they are in the midst of other elegancies, and stand without any rival in the fall. That face must be fair indeed that shines amongst a multitude of beauties, which too often eclipse one another. When you meet with a Cauliflower whose curd is hard and white, and free from frothiness about the edges, let it stand for seed, and as the flower branches, remove the leaves from off it, and fix three pretty strong stalks at equal angles about it, surrounded with pack-thread, in order to support the branches, which might be otherwise broken by the wind. When the seed is ripe, cut the pods off and dry them, and rub them out as you do Cabbage seed. I have been told that seeds cannot be raised in this country, but I believe the contrary may be proved by a proper culture.

CARROTS, Daucus, are of two sorts, the orange and white, the former being generally used, though 13 the latter is much the sweetest kind. To have them fine in the spring, sow them in drills about two feet distance, for the convenience of weeding them, about the latter end of August, and when they appear, draw them so as to keep them about four inches asunder, and in February sow again for the summer, and in April for the fall. They choose a light warm soil, and should never be dunged with long dung; nay, it is thought best to dung the ground the year before; for when they touch dung or meet with obstruction, they fork immediately. The seed should be rubbed before sown, to get rid of the husk to which they adhere. It should be sown in a calm day, as the seed is very light and easily blown away. They should be trodden down when sown, and raked smoothly over. When, your carrots appear heady above ground, they should be trodden, that they may grow more below than above. In November take up your roots and put them in dry sand, and you may use them as occasion requires. About the middle of February, plant out one of the most flourishing for seed, which, when ripe, dry in the sun and rub out.

CELERY, Apium, quod apes eo gaodeant, or from Apex, because the ancients made crowns of it, is one of the species of parsley. At first I was surprised to find this, but upon examining the two plants, there is, in many particulars, a characteristic likeness. Celery is the Apium dulce, the seed of which should be sown in a successive manner to have it fine for any time; for after it is blanched it will not remain good longer than three weeks, or a month 14 but will rot or grow pipy. Let the first sowing then be in March, the second about a fortnight after, i. e. the last of March, the third in the beginning of April and the fourth about the beginning of May. In about three weeks or a month, the seed will come up, and if your plants grow stout, as probably they will in good land, you must transplant them into beds, and in June those of the first sowing will he fit to he put out for blanching, and the rest should also be put out as they appear strong enough to sustain a removal. When they are transplanted for fruit, dig a trench by a line about ten inches wide and eight or nine deep, loosening the earth at the bottom, and levelling it; and the earth taken out of the trenches should be laid on the sides, for the convenience of earthing. These trenches should be about three feet asunder, and the plants should stand six inches distant from one another, in a straight row, cutting off the tops of the plants, when planted out. As the plants grow up, they should be carefully earthed up in a dry season, else they will rot, not above the crown or heart of the plant, and in a light rich soil, they will grow to twenty inches in height, but in poor land they will not exceed ten. Your first plantation should be in a moist soil, but not the latter, because the additional wet of the winter will rot your plants. The sun is a great enemy to Celery, when it is very hot, wherefore I would recommend the covering of your plants with brush, at all seasons of their growth, whilst the weather is hot, from nine in the morning until six o'clock in the 15 evening. When you desire to raise seed, draw one or more of your flourishing plants, and plant it out in the spring, let it be supported against the winds; and in August the seed will be ripe, which should be then cut up, dried, beat out, and preserved in bags.

CELERIAC, Apium dulce degener, Radice rapacea, Turnep rooted, is to be treated much in the same manner as Celery, except that the drills of these should be shallower, as this plant does not exceed ten inches in height, and requires but one earthing. The excellence of this consists in the size of its root, which is often as large as turneps. In summer water your plants, if the season is dry, and in winter cover them with haum, or any open covering to protect them from frosts.

PARSLEY, Apium hortense, if intended for the table, should be sown in drills pretty thick, in light rich land; but if for medicinal use (the roots being prescribed on many occasions,) the seed should be sown thin, and the plants drawn and treated as is directed in the culture of carrots. Where you breed Rabbits it may be sown in the fields; Hares and Rabbits being remarkably fond of it, will resort to it from great distances. It is a sovereign remedy to preserve sheep from the rot, by feeding twice a week on this herb, about two hours each time. If intended for the table, the seed should be sown early in the spring; if for medicinal purposes, or for rabbits, the latter end of February in England, but about the middle of March in Virginia. The 16 gardeners have an advantage as to this plant, that the seed goes nine times to the devil before it comes up, alluding to the length of time it lies in the ground before it germinates, which is generally six weeks. In this it resembles celery, as also in its foliage, and the head where the seed is produced. There are several kinds of parsley, but these I have mentioned seem the most useful and particular.

CUCUMBER, Cucumis, is esteemed in its season the most refreshing and delicate of all vegetables. There are three sorts … First, Cucumis sativus vulgaris. Second, Cucumis fructu albo … the white cucumber. Third, Cucumis oblongus. The first is the common sort most in use, amongst which there is a difference in the size, length, &c. The second is cultivated in Holland chiefly, and the last sort is cultivated only in curious gardens, and are remarkable for their length and fewness of seed. As there are three sorts, so there are three seasons for cucumbers : the first is the early, in hot-beds, the second is the middle crop under glasses, and the third is for pickling. Although many are ambitious of having early fruit, yet it is certain that Cucumbers are not wholesome till the hot weather comes on; for being pent up in hot-beds, they inspire a confined watery air, which must necessarily make the plant crude and unhealthful. Towards the latter end of January, if you require Cucumbers in April, you are to get about two loads of long dung, which will be sufficient for a moderate family, and mixing it with some sea-coal ashes, you are to lay it in a 17 heap, about three feet thick. In about four or five days, the dung will begin to heat, and then you must take off part of the top, laying it flat on the sides of your heap, and put on about two inches of good earth, which must be covered with your glasses. In a day or two after, when you find the earth pretty warm, put your seeds in the earth about a quarter of an inch deep, and keep it close covered with the glass all night and in bad weather, and the glass should be also covered with mat. In three or four days, the plants will appear, upon which you are to make a bed for a single light on the adjoining heap of dung, covering the top about three inches thick with mould, into which you are to put your plants, at about two inches distance each way, observing to put them into the earth almost up to their seed leaves. In twenty-four hours your plant will take root, and you are to give it what air you can without injury, turning the glass upside down in the heat of the day, or wiping off the water that is condensed in the upper part, and is very pernicious when it drops on your plants. You are to water your plants, though moderately, and your water should be as near the temperature of the air in which the plant exists as possible, and as the plants advance, support their shanks with a little dry sifted earth, which will much assist them. If your heat is too intense, run a stick into the middle of the dung, through the sides of the heap in two or three places, which will give vent to the steam. If it be too slack, cover the sides of your heap with more 18 litter. When the third or rough leaf appears, you are to prepare another heap, in which you are to make holes about a foot deep, and eight or nine inches over, which are to be filled with light fresh earth, and in these in four or five days you transplant your plants, observing to water them as before, and to put four plants into each, with their roots sloping toward the centre, lest they should get to the dung, and be injured by it. You should avoid keeping your glasses too close, for the steam may cause such a damp as will very much injure the plants. Your plants tending upwards when they are four or five inches high, should be forked down, and when you weed them, hold the leaves very gently with one hand, and weed them with the other. Falling off the male blossom is not recommended, neither is pruning the vines, but if your glasses are filled with too much vine you ought to draw out one of the plants, provided it is not matted with those you intend to stand. Whenever your bed loses its heat in any degree, it ought to be repaired; and though the plants delight in heat, yet you must cover your glasses when the sun is in the meridian, and hot. In watering these beds, you must throw the water all over the vines, but not in the heat of the day, for the drops will collect the rays of the sun to a focus, blister and ruin the plants. And as at this season you have often cold nights, you should preserve the heat of the beds, and from this management your Cucumbers will last till the beginning of July, when your second crop will come to bear.

The management of this second crop is pretty much the same with the former, only you must raise your glasses oftener, as the weather will be warmer, and your seeds are to be put into the ground in March or April. Miller directs that beds of dung should be made for the second crop as well as the first, and the same culture observed; but I believe if your seeds are sown in April in rich light hills, and sheltered from the cold with glasses, it will answer just as well, provided you keep them free from weeds, and water with temperate water. Most people are fond of gathering their seed from the first early fruit, leaving one Cucumber only on a vine, nearest the heart of the plant, and this is a good way. In August your seeds will be ripe enough: then cut open the Cucumber and put pulp and seed into a tub, there to remain eight or ten days, stirring them every day to the bottom with a stick; at the expiration of that time, pour water into the tub, and by stirring it often and repeating it, the scum will rise to the top and your seed subside, which are to be dried and put into a bag, and are best when three or four years old. Your seed that are intended for picklers, should be sown in May, about nine in a hill, and in five or six days they will appear above ground, and for above a week after, till the plant has made some progress, are very liable to be destroyed by Sparrows, they being very fond of them. Leave only four or five of the most vigorous plants in a hill, and observe to water in a dry season, and keep the ground about them loose, and free from 20 weeds. The earth should be laid round your plant in the form of a bason, to hold the water that is given them, and take care that your plants don't interweave with one another; and if any plants appear fading or declining, pull them up. Fifty holes is the number advised, from whence you may expect to gather about two thousand in the season. Miller mentions the putting your plants into baskets, when they are fit to transplant, filled with earth, which may be removed with the plants in them, into other hot-beds with great security, by which means you have a crop much earlier than in the method before mentioned. If Cucumbers are stuck, as you do peas, they will run to a great height, and will bear till the frosts destroy them.

CURRANTS, Or CORINTHS, so called from a near resemblance to a Corinthian Grape, (Ribes by the botanists) have many species; but the two principal are the red and white, of which the Dutch sorts are chiefly propagated in England. They are to be propagated from cuttings, planted in the fall, (September) and are directed to remain two years, when they are to be removed into beds, and planted in rows ten feet asunder, and four feet from each other. But the cuttings will succeed as well if planted in a rich light bed, to stand without any removal at all. They will grow either against walls, pales, or in espaliers. If some are planted against a south . wall, or in a warm place, and others in a colder situation under a north wall, the fruit will last a long time, as there will be a succession. The 21 fruit grows on the former year's wood, on small snags, which come out of the old wood, wherefore in pruning, these snags ought to be preserved, and the young shoots shortened in proportion to their strength. In pruning, cut off the old wood, and not in heads. I find no directions as to keeping them on single stalks, but I believe this method is best. They will grow in any soil or situation, even under trees, though the open air is best. Your plantation must be renewed in seven or eight years.

CHAMOMILE, Chamomelum,⁹ (from Melon, gr. an Apple, because it has the scent of one,) or Anthemis, as it is called by Dr. Linnaeus. There are different species, but the Chamomelum odoratissimum repens, fore simplici, is the sort chiefly propagated. It is used medicinally, and in making green walks or edgings.; the method of planting is, to separate the roots, as they grow very close, and prick each root into poor land, about ten inches asunder, in the month of March; they will quickly stretch themselves into contact with each other, and as the flowers ripen they should be gathered and dried. When thick, it is apt to rot in the winter, so that it ought now and then to be thinned.

CELADINE, Majus Chelidonium, is a medical herb, often cultivated in gardens. The several varieties are propagated by sowing the seed, and the plants will cast their seeds, and keep you constantly with a stock of young plants, without further trouble. It is an annual Celandine; the lesser is a Ranunculus.

CLARY, Sclarea. These are propagated either from the seed, in a light soil, or parting the roots any planting them out at Michaelmas, about eighteen inches asunder; these will last many years.

COMFREY, Symphytum …Is good for healing wounds, being a great vulnerary, and is to be propagated by parting the roots, and planting them in the fall, eighteen inches asunder, or from the seed. It is hardy, will grow anywhere, and will last long.

CRESSES, WATER, Sisymbrium nasturtium, grow in standing water, and may be propagated by throwing the seed in a standing water, and not cutting it the first year. From its agreeable warm taste, it is much esteemed in England, and is very good eating in Scorbutic cases, and is a great diarrhoetic.

CRESS, INDIAN, Nasturtium indicum nasis tormentum, because the seed when bruised is apt to cause sneezing, known to the botanists by the name of Acriviola, a sharp violet, should be sown in April or March, being extremely tender. If stuck, they will climb a great height, and will last till the frost come, and then totally perish. It is thought the flower is superior to a radish in flavour, and is eaten in salads or without. My method is to plant the seeds in hills, three in a hill, leaving a space in the middle to put the stick on which they are to grow; and I have found they succeed very well in a rich light soil.

ELECAMPANE, Helenium, is a medicinal plant, the root of which is much used by the Apothecaries. It may be propagated from the seed, which are to be 23 planted dust when ripe, about ten inches asunder, and will remain in the ground until the succeeding spring, when they will make their appearance, and conquer all weeds. They may likewise be propagated from the offsets, with a bud at the top; they are to be put in a hole unbent, and the earth thrown over the crown of the plant with the foot; the tops are killed in winter, but they revive in the spring.

ENDIVE…Endivia cichorium, Succory, in order to have an early crop, should be sown in the beginning of May, though it is apt to seed when sown early, and when it is large enough, which will be probably about the latter end of June: plant it out either in rich trenches as you do celery, or in beds; and when it is grown to its full size, tie the leaves up and earth it up to the crown of the plant. In June sow more seed, and in July; and when fit, transplant it at about a foot distance as is before directed; when you tie it up observe that the leaves are not wet, and are sound, because if tied up at that time they are apt to rot. In December, and other cold months, cover the plants with pea haum, boards, or other things that will shelter them, otherwise the frost will destroy them. In January or February, or rather March, prick out twelve of the most flourishing plants, and they will run to seed in July, though I believe if they are permitted to stand undisturbed they will seed as well. It does not last above a month after being tied up. In February the plants should, with a flat pointed 24 dibble, be put into the side of a trench, with the crown to the sun.

ESCHALOT, vide Cives, under title Onion.

FETHERFEW, Matrecaria, from Matrix, being good against diseases of the womb, or Parthenium, from Parthenos, gr. a virgin, is to be propagated from seed or roots; if the former, they should be sown in March, and if the latter, the roots should be pricked out above eight inches asunder in May. If you do not want the seeds, cut the stems off when the flowers are past, as they often decay the roots.

FENNEL, Foeniculum. This may be propagated from seed or the plants, as Featherfew, and nothing more is necessary than to keep it from seedling, because it will overrun the garden; the roots being very strong, continue a long while in the ground.

GARLICK, Allium, vide Onion.

GOOSEBERRY, Grossularia, by some Uva, and by others Crispa, because villose and hairy. There are many species and seminal variations amongst the species themselves to be met with, but the two sorts principally cultivated are the hairy Gooseberry, and the large white Dutch. They are propagated from the suckers or cuttings, but the latter are preferable, as they produce much better roots than the former, which are apt to be woody. Autumn, before the leaves begin to fall, is the proper time for planting the cuttings out, taking the same from the bearing branches, about eight inches in length, and planting three inches deep, observing to nip off all under branches, so as to raise it to a head on a single 25 stalk; in October you are directed to remove them into beds about three feet asunder, and having been one year in the nursery, they are to be removed to the places where they are to remain, six and eight feet asunder, row from row, observing to prune their roots, and all the lateral branches about Michaelmas; the London gardeners prune their bushes and cut them with shears into hedges, but this method is not approved of by Miller, who advises pruning with a knife, thinning the bearing branches, and shortening them to about ten inches, cutting away all the irregular ones; by this culture, I doubt not the Gooseberries would be as good as any in Europe; there is a small Gooseberry, very leafy, and which bears its leaves and fruit a long time, that is not worth cultivation; wherefore I would advise the banishing them from the garden.

GROUND Ivy, Hedera terrestris, or Glechoma, will grows in any shady place, where the roots are transplanted, and will overspread the ground, if not restrained.

HORSE RADISH, Cochlearia, from Cochleare, a spoon, because the leaves are hollow like a spoon … is a species of the Scurvey grass. It is to be propagated from buds or cuttings from the sides of the old roots, in October or February; the former for dry land, and the latter for moist. The offsets should have buds on their crowns, and the heads planted out should be about two inches in length. The method of planting them is in trenches about ten inches deep, about five distance each way, the bud upwards, 26 covering them up with the mould taken out of the trenches. Then the ground is to be levelled with a rake, and kept free from weeds, and the second year after planting, the roots may be used; the first year the roots are very slender. When you have cut from a root and separated as much as you have occasion for, put it into the ground again with the head just above the earth, and it will restore itself, if not pulled up soon after. It ought to be planted in very rich ground, otherwise it will not flourish. This method of planting I am so well pleased with that I never had any Horse Radish in my garden till I strictly pursued it, and I advise every one to follow it.

HONEY-SUCKLES, Caprifolium, because the Goats eat the tender plants. The red is the Italian, the pale, English; roots or cuttings will produce it. They may be removed in bloom for the sake of a prospect, and replaced when out of bloom.

Hyssop, Hissopus, is a purging or cleansing plant, for in the psalms it says, "purge me with Hyssop:" and though the Hyssop of the ancients we are in some respect unacquainted with, yet we have reason to believe it was a low plant, for Solomon is said to have described all plants, from the Cedar to the Hyssop. If propagated by seed, they should be sown in poor dry land in March, in beds, and when fit, should be transplanted where they are to remain, about two feet asunder. If from cuttings, they should be planted out in April. or May, in a border defended from the heat of the sun. It is a hardy 27 plant, and if not in dunged ground, which makes them luxurious and feeble, they will resist the severest weather. The winter is thought to be the ancient Hyssop, because it is much demanded, and used in the eastern countries in washings and purifications.

LAVENDER, Lavendula a lavendo, because good in washings and bathing, as it scents the water and beautifies the flesh, should be propagated from the cuttings or slips, and planted out in March in a poor gravelly soil. It has been found that this soil suits it best, will give it a more aromatic smell, and that it will resist the winters here better than in a rich soil.

LETTUCES, Lactuca, from lac, milk, they being of a milky substance, which is emitted when the stalk is broken. There is a common garden Lettuce which is sown for cutting young and mixing with other small salads, and is the Cabbage Lettuce degenerated, as all seed will do that is saved from a lettuce that has not Cabbage close by. These may be sown at any season of the year. The Cabbage Lettuce should be sown every month to have a succession, and drawn, as all the sorts ought to be, to stand at different distances, and these should stand about ten inches asunder, and by replanting those that are drawn, they will head later than those which stand, by which means you may have a succession. This sort of Lettuce is the worst of all the kinds in my opinion. It is the most watery and flashy, does not grow to the size that many of the other sorts will do, and very soon runs to seed. When I say 28 the seed is to be sown every month, I mean only the growing months, the first of which February is esteemed, and August the last. In August you should sow your last crop, about the beginning of the month, and in October transplant them into a rich border, sheltered from the weather by a box with a lid, which should be opened every morning and closed in the evening, and in the month of February you will have fine loaf lettuces; a lettuce is a hardy plant, particularly the Dutch brown, and will stand most of our winters, if covered only with peas, asparagus haunt, mats or straw. In order to have good seed, you should make choice of some of your best Cabbage, and largest plants, which will run up to seed, and should be secured by a stick, stuck into the ground; and different sorts should not stand together, for the farina will intermix and prejudice each other, and none but good plants should be together for seed; experience has shown that the bad will vitiate the good, and the seed from the plants that have stood the winter are best. The seed is good at two years old, and will grow at three, if carefully preserved.

The SILESIA, imperial white, and upright Cos Lettuce, should be sown in February or beginning of March, and should be drawn so as to stand, Miller says, eighteen inches at least distance from each other, but thinks two feet much better.

The EGYPTIAN green Cos, and the Versailles upright Cos and Silesia, are most esteemed in England as the sweetest and finest, though the imperial 29 wants not its advocates. I, for my own part, give it the preference for three reasons, the first is, that it washes by far the easiest of any; second, that it will remain longer before it goes to seed than any other, except the Dutch brown; and lastly, that it is the crispest and most delicious of them all.

The DUTCH BROWN, and green Capuchin are very hardy, will stand the winters best, and remain in the heat of summer threes weeks longer than any other before they go to seed, which renders them valuable, though they are not so handsome or elegant a Lettuce as any of the former. They may be sown as the common garden Lettuce in the spring, and in August as before.

The ALEPPO and ROMAN Lettuce cabbage the soonest of any, and may be propagated for that reason the first is a very spotted Lettuce: Col. Ludwell¹⁰ gave me some of the seed, but it did not please me so well as the other more common sorts; all the seed on a stalk will not ripen at the same time, so you must cut your stalk when some of the first seed are ripe. Mice are very fond of the seed. Some Lettuces show a disposition to head without assistance; these should not be touched, but where they throw their leaves back, they should be tied up, though that restrains them from growing to a great size. They will not flourish but in rich land, and if lunged, the dung should not be very low, because the root of a lettuce will not go down so low as the dung is commonly spitted into the ground. The time for gathering the seed is when the plants show their 30 down. Transplanting, it is said, contributes towards cabbaging; but they will cabbage, from my experience, every bit as well without. By transplanting you retard the growth, and by that means may have a succession.

MARJORAM, winter, pot and wild … Origanum. This may be propagated either from the seed, cuttings, or parting their roots in the spring; and if kept clear from the weeds will stand a number of years.

MARSH MALLOW, Althaea, gr. from Althos, gr. medicament. These may be raised from seed sown in March, and transplanted into pots or elsewhere, or from cuttings planted in May in a light soil, and shaded.

MINT, Mentha, from mens, the mind, because it strengthens the mind. These should be planted in the spring, by parting the roots or cuttings, and planted six inches asunder; otherwise the roots mat into one another, and destroy themselves in three years.

MELON, from Merlon, Apple, because of its fragrancy. There are but three sorts of Melons that Miller says are worth cultivating, the Portugal or pocket Melon, which is small and round, the Cantaleupe Melon, and the Zatta Melon; the green fleshed Melon, and the netted wrought Melon. he does not esteem, though I have found them very delicious in this country. There is a rough, knotty Melon, called the Diarbekr,¹¹ from the province belonging to the Turkish empire in Asia, which is 31 reckoned the most exquisite of all Melons, which have been brought to great perfection here, and which are not taken notice of by Miller, probably because it has been brought into England since the publication of his dictionary, unless it is the Zatta Melon. The Portugal Melon has been called by the name of king Charles' Melon, because he used to carry one in his pocket, and also Dormer's Melon,¹² because brought from Portugal by a general of that name. The Cantaleupe originally came from Armenia, on the confines of Persia, but took its name from Cantaleupe, a province about six miles from Rome, where they produce the best. It is known all over Europe, by the simple name of the Cantaleupe Melon, and agrees with all stomachs and palates. The Zatta Melon is greatly esteemed in Florence, Italy, &c. It is small, deep furrowed, rough and warted, and compressed at the ends. Melons should never grow near one another, if of different sorts, or by any means near Gourds, Cucumbers, &c. because the farina of one will impregnate the other, spoil the relish of the fruit, and make them degenerate. Melon seed should not be sown before three years old, and though they will grow at ten or twelve years, yet they should not be propagated after six years. The early Melon is of little value; the middle of June is early enough. In order to have a proper succession, the seed should be sown at least at two different seasons, about the middle of February if seasonable weather, if not, the latter end. The second sowing should be in March, and the 32 third in May, which last will yield a crop in August and last until October. The early sowings should be covered with oil paper, in preference to glasses. The culture of Melons and planting them out, is the same with cucumbers, to which we refer. The compost used by the Dutch and German gardeners, for Melons, is of hazel loam, one third part, of the scouring of ditches, ponds, &c. the same, and a third part of rotten dung, all mixed together, and mellowed by being frequently turned over, and kept twelve months. But Miller prefers two thirds of fresh gentle loam and one third of rotten neats' dung, kept together a year, and often turned. It will take about fifteen good wheelbarrows of dung to a light. Melons of all sorts, but particularly the Cantaleupe, should be planted out as soon as the third or rough leaf appears. These seeds do well to be sown on the upper side of a Cucumber bed. One plant is enough for a light. Watering is very requisite, but in much smaller quantities than Cucumbers, and the water should be laid on at a distance from the stems. When the plant has four leaves, the top of the plant should be pinched off, in order to force out the lateral branches. It must not be cut or bruised; that wounds the plant, and takes a considerable time to heal. The roots of Melons extend a great way, and often perish after the fruit is set, for want of room, wherefore Miller advises that your beds be twelve feet, and when your frames are filled with vine, to raise it so as to let the vines run under them. When the lateral branches, or, as 33 all off, except one to a runner, leaving at most about eight to a vine, and pinch off the end of the runner about three joints from the fruit: notwithstanding these are pinched off, there will new runners appear; these should be also taken away. If the ground is not too wet and moist, the lower the plants are the better, and if you plant in a bed, let your trenches be extended in length about three feet and a half wide, and your plants should not be less than five feet asunder, to prevent their vines intermixing. If there are several beds, they should be eight feet asunder, and the spaces between filled up for the benefit of the roots with rotten dung. They ought to be covered in all hard rains. The frames should not be too heavy. Many use laths in imitation of covered wagons; your fruit should be turned twice a week for the advantage of the sun, and if lodged on a board or piece of tile, it will be better; once a week watering will be sufficient. The sign of fruit's maturity is the cracking near the foot stalk; and smelling fragrantly. The Cantaleupe never changes colour, until too ripe. Gather your fruit in a morning before the sun has warmed it, but if gathered after, put it into cold water or ice, and keep those got in the morning in the coolest place; a few hours' delay in gathering will spoil the fruit, wherefore they ought to be overlooked twice a day. Take your seeds from the richest flavoured fruit, 34 with the pulp, in which it must lie three days before washed out, and save only the heavy seed … that which will sink in water.

MILLET, from Mille, a thousand, frown the multitude of seed it bears. There are four sorts, white, yellow, black, and the Sorgo or Guinea Corn. It originally came from the eastern countries, and is much esteemed in making puddings. The seed should be sown in the middle of March, very thin, as the plants require room in a warm dry soil. They should be kept clear of weeds, and in August or latter end of July the seed will ripen, when they are to be beaten out: the seed is good for poultry. The black sort, so called from its black seed, is of no use or value.

MULLEIN, Verbascum. The seed should be sown in August, in drills, about six inches asunder, and in the spring transplanted in a warm light situation.

MUGWORT…Artemisia wife of Mausolus, king of Caria, who first brought it into use; or Parthenis, as it was before called, because supposed that a virgin goddess gave name to it; or Artemis gr. Diana, because good for the disorders of women. This plant is propagated by parting the roots, either in spring or autumn, and will grow in any soil or situation. They spread very much, to prevent which their side shoots should be cut; from one species of this the Moxa is got, being the lanugo or downy substance under the leaf.

ONION, Cepa. There are three sorts for winter use; the Strasburg, the red Spanish Onion, and the 35 white Spanish Onion. There are other sorts which suit the spring and summer season best. There are Cepa ascalonica, from Ascalon, a city in India, or the Scallion or Escallion. The Cives, or Cepula, the young Onion. The Welch Onion, and lastly the Ciboule. The three first sorts should be sown in February, the first open weather, or beginning of March at farthest, and in about six weeks your Onions will be up, and ought to be weeded. The rows should be about twelve or eighteen inches asunder, if sowed in drills, which is the best method, and the plants should be drawn to be about five or six inches apart. This may be no loss, because they will serve with young salad in the spring: about the middle or latter end of July your plants will be ripe, which may be discovered by the dropping down or shrinking of the blades; then they should be drawn up, and the extreme part of the blades should be cropped off, and the plants laid on the ground to dry. They should be turned at least every other day, otherwise they will strike fresh root, especially in moist weather. In about a fortnight they will be sufficiently dried; you are then to rub off all the earth and take care to remove all that are any ways decayed, and the sound ones laid as thin as possible in, some room or garret, as close from the air as possible, and at least once a month look over them, to see if any of them are decayed, for if any are so, they will affect the rest; or if too near one another, or in heaps, they will heat, and probably ruin the whole crop. The white Onion is the sweetest, 36 though all the three sorts will degenerate into one another in the course of time. In March you should dig a trench, and put' some of your most flourishing plants about six inches deep, and as far asunder, into it, which should be covered over with a rake, and in about a month's time the leaves will appear above ground, and when your plants begin to head, they should be supported by stakes and packthread or yarn, otherwise they will be very liable to be injured by the winds. These will produce you seed about August, which may be known by the seeds changing brown, and the bells where the seed is contained opening. The heads should be critically cut, otherwise the seed will be dropped, and when cut, the heads should be exposed to the sun, and sheltered in the night and wet weather, and when sufficiently dry, they should be rubbed out, and after being exposed one day more to the sun, may be put into bags and preserved for the following year. The Scallion is a small Onion, and is sown early in the spring, and never forms any bulb, and is used green in the spring with young salads. The Ciboule and Welch Onion, are thought to be the same by Miller.¹³

CHIVES never grow into bulbs, but in bunches, and Miller takes it to be Shallot. They do not grow above six inches high in the blade. They are to be propagated by parting the roots or planting the cloves. They do not affect the breath so much as the other sorts. The Welch Onion at some seasons of the year, viz: in the fall, dies away, but 37 revives in January, and becomes very early in the spring fit for the table.

GARLICK … Allium should be propagated by planting the bulbs in August or September, about five inches asunder. These die about July, and then should be taken up and hung in a dry room for winter use. All these several sorts delight in a rich sandy soil, and eight pounds of seed will sow an acre. When sown they should be trodden, so should they be treated when they run too much into blade; in order to throw their substance into the bulb, and when trodden they ought to be covered with fresh mould; the seed for sowing should never be wet, because it will shoot out its radicle, and never succeed afterwards.

PARSLEY, Vide Celery.

PARSNIPS, Pastinaca sativa. The seed should be sown about February or March in light ground dug pretty deep, and may be mixed with Carrots, though Miller advises against mixing with any thing else, because they spread very much in the latter end of summer. They should be kept very clear of weeds, and should be drawn to about ten or twelve inches asunder. When the leaves begin to decay, which will be, about February, after frosts, they should be dug up and put into dry sand, which will preserve them until April. They are not sweet until bit by the frosts. In order to have seed, your strongest plants should be planted out in the spring, and in August or beginning of September your seed will be ripe: you must then cut off the heads, and let them 38 be exposed to the sun three days in order to dry them, after which they should be beat out, and put up for use. Seed are not to be trusted after a year old.

PEAS, Pisum sativum. There are several sorts of Peas, and which have different properties, some being early and others late. There are several dwarf kinds, but these are only intended to be raised in hot-beds. The method of doing this is in the following manner: You sow your Peas in October, in some warm border, and shelter them from the inclemency of the weather with pea haum, or any other device, until about the latter end of January or beginning of February, at which time you are to prepare a hot-bed in proportion to the quantity you intend to sow, about two feet thick with dung, which is to be covered over with about six inches of mould; your frames ought to be about two feet high on the back sides, and eighteen inches in the front. When you find that your bed, by raising the glasses and giving vent to the rising steam, is brought to a proper temperature, you should with a trowel, or some other instrument, take up your plants, and prick them in about two inches asunder, in rows about a foot asunder; after this you should give them water, if necessary, and air as the weather will admit, and should hill them to their stalks. When the weather is hot the glasses should be covered with mats, and when in blossom or beginning to fruit, they should be watered in greater plenty than before. Any other sort than dwarfs, rambles too high for your 39 frames. There are the Charlton hotspur, Reading hotspur and blaster hotspur, but are very little differing from one another. These are the earliest, and are reckoned much preferable in flavour to any other kind; these should be sown in November, and covered in the winter, and they will come in succession with those in the hot-bed. There are likewise the rouncivals, the Spanish marollo Peas,¹⁴ and the marrowfat or Dutch Admiral; but these are of a later sort, and are intended to come in succession, when the forward kind are gone. You should sow your Peas every fortnight, and as the hot weather comes on, the latter sort should be in a sheltered situation, otherwise they will burn up. I would recommend the sowing in drills about two or three inches deep, levelling the ground very smoothly with light mould, in rows about four feet asunder, for the convenience of going between, in order to gather the crop, and raising Cabbages or other things at the same time. In the spring let your rows be east and west, in the summer north and south, for a reason which must be obvious, viz : the giving them as much sun as possible in the first instance, and as little as possible in the last. When your peas are well up, they should be hilled once or twice before they are stuck; this not only strengthens them, but at the same time affords them fresh nourishment; the manner of sticking them every body knows; I shall only therefore mention a caution to put your sticks firm in the ground, otherwise they are apt to fall, when the vines grow rampant, and not to stick 40 them in too near the roots, lest you do the plant an irreparable injury. In the spring it has been found that scattering some dry cow dung in the trenches before you sow your peas, has been very beneficial. The Charlton and marrowfats may be sown at the same time: some people soak their Peas before sowing, but this often turns out unsuccessfully, for in a wet season they are very apt to rot. There is a Pea which came from Holland, with an esculent husk. The Ormonds are the hotspur. In order to have Peas in the fall, sow the hotspur and a latter sort the twelfth day of August; these will yield you a crop from October until the intense weather comes on, in November or December. Your sticks should be pretty long, eight feet is not too high, because the rampant sorts, particularly the crown Pea and marrowfats, run to a great height, and keep bearing as they grow. Peas may be preserved as Kidney Beans are, by laying them in different layers of salt, in their pods, and being kept quite close.

POTATOES, Solanum Potatoe seems only a corruption of the Indian Batatas, it coming originally from America in 1623; Dr. Linnaeus classes it under the genus Solanum. There are more raised near London than in any other part of Europe. As the seed is not only uncertain, but very difficult to be raised in England, they are generally propagated from the roots; some take the small potatoes or offsets entire, others cut the large ones into pieces, observing to plant what they call the eyes. But Miller thinks the best method is to plant the fairest roots, 41 allowing them a greater distance, both in the rows, and from one another; the proper soil for this plant is a light sandy loam, not too dry or moist. The ground should be well worked, and your Potatoes planted as soon as the frosts are over, that is, about the beginning of March, in furrows, about seven or eight inches deep, the rows three feet asunder, and the plants a foot and a half. The ground should be kept clear of weeds, and stirred before the roots begin to stretch themselves out. The Haum of these plants is generally killed the first frost, at which time they should be taken up and kept in sand quite dry for use, not too thick, and very dry, least they should heat and spoil. You may dig them up sooner if large enough, and no injury will be done; this is the case amongst the farmers, for they generally take a crop of wheat from the land, and therefore must have the ground cleared as soon as possible. The Irish method of raising these plants, is to lay them on the sward, and cover them six inches with mould, and so hill them up as they grow. Hilling is necessary …let them be planted in any manner you think proper.

PEPPER, Capsicum, should be sown in April, and should be gathered before the pods grow hard, for pickles.

RADISH, Raphanus sativus. There are Radishes known in this country by the name of Scarlet or Salmon, London short topped, &c. but they are, Miller says, no more than little varieties of the common sort, arising from culture. The gardeners 42 about London sow their seeds in October, in a warm border, so as to have them, if they do not miscarry, in March, but I believe our winters are too severe to admit of this here; the second sowing is about Christmas, which will produce a crop in April; but the best method is to sow every fortnight, from January till the beginning of April, always observing to sow your latter crops in moist land, otherwise they are apt to run up, and indeed with proper shelters these sowings may be repeated all the summer and fall. Where ground is scarce, the gardeners sow Carrots and Spinach with their Radishes, because the last are drawn soon, and give the others room to flourish. The best method of sowing Radishes is in drills about a foot asunder; the seed to be put three inches deep in light rich land, though no dung; and if they grow too thick, that is nearer than three inches asunder, they should be pulled so as to remain within that distance. In May you should, in order to have proper seed, draw some of your best plants, such as do not branch, but are straight, and prick them in, in rows three feet asunder, and two from one another, and when the seed grow brown, they should be taken off, dried, and the pods beaten out, and secured so that the mice cannot get at the seed. There is a Turnep Radish, being very like one, called in England the round rooted Radish. These should be sown in March, and allowed a greater distance than the common Radish. The black Radish will continue if sown in August, until killed by the frosts, and 43 Radishes may be preserved in sand, as Carrots are, until the spring. Some people, to have long handsome Radishes, make holes in the ground at six inches deep, and put two seeds into each, about three inches asunder, by which means your, Radishes are the better.

RASPBERRY, Rubus, being red. There are two sorts only that are propagated, for the sake of their fruit, the white and red, and those either by layers or suckers, though the former are preferable. They should be placed in some abject part of the garden, where they may have room to spread, without incommoding any other plant. They should not be less than two feet asunder, and in their rows five, though six each way would do better, in a light loamy soil, neither too moist nor too dry. The old bearing branches should be cut down to the ground in October, and the young shoots shortened to two feet, and some rotten dung should be thrown into the trenches. There ought to be a new plantation once in three or four years. Some think they should never be touched, but be suffered to run and grow as they please; others pinch off the dead parts only. If the blossom is pulled off they will produce fruit in the fall. They are pestered with lice, but lime water kills them, if sprinkled upon them.

ROSEMARY, Rosmarinus, Sea-dew, delights in a poor gravelly soil, and has a more aromatic smell than in richer soil, and will stand the cold better. It is propagated by cuttings or slips, which may be planted either in the fall (September,) or in the 44 spring, and transplanted where they are to remain after they have taken root, or they may be suffered to remain where the cuttings are first put.

RUE, Ruta, from. Ruo, gr. to Preserve, viz: health. It is propagated as rosemary, to which we refer, only it must be done in the spring. It is not good for edgings, to which use it was formerly applied, because it either grows too luxuriant, or if repressed, ragged, wherefore it is now discontinued, and made use of only for medicinal purposes.

SPINACH, Spinacia, should be sown about the latter end of July or middle of August, when there is an appearance of rain, and drawn when up, to be about three or four inches asunder. It should be constantly clear of weeds. In October the Spinach will be fit to cut, when you should only crop the largest leaves; in the spring you should sow a fresh crop, which will come to maturity in April, when the winter sowing will run to seed, and the best plants should be reserved for seed. In England they aim at a succession, and sow in January, February and March; but in this country it is apt to run to seed in the spring, and if prevented, is milky and distasteful. The seed should be sown in drills, about two feet distance, and if you desire seed, the plants should be about twelve or fourteen inches asunder. Seed sown in the spring will produce as good seed as any. There is a male and female plant, the former of which produce's spires of staminous flowers, which contain the farina, and impregnate the embryo of the female plants, and 45 produce the seed; and if the males are pulled up, the seed will not be worth any thing. When the plants change colour, they should be cut, and dried a few days in the sun, turning them every day, and when dried, beat out and preserved from mice. It delights in the best soil.

STRAWBERRY, Fragaria, from its aromatic scent. There are three sorts chiefly propagated, the wood, the scarlet or Virginian, and the hautboy; there is a green sort which some call drayton, and others the pine apple, from its participating of the flavour of that delicious fruit; but none has ever been brought into this country, and it is but rarely to be met with, even in England.¹⁵ September is the best month for transplanting, though it is often done in February. But I have myself transplanted with success, when in full bloom. The soil this plant delights in ought to be a fresh loamy sort. If too rich, the vines grow rampant, and do not produce the fruit so good as in ground less enriched. All strawberries should be at least a foot distance, but I recommend two feet, to have them in great perfection. They ought to be planted in beds, with alleys two feet wide, for the convenience of going between to cleanse them of weeds, very prejudicial to them. In the spring, when your vines are in flower, if it is dry, water them, otherwise their blossoms will drop off. In September, you should pull off all the strings or runners, and every weak plant; dig up between the beds and strew some fine mould or woodpile earth between the plants, observing not to 46 cover them with it; this will greatly strengthen them, and your fruit will be much larger. They do not last above three years; so that to keep constantly supplied, you should make a new plantation, a year before the old ones are destroyed. The scar let Strawberry will come a fortnight sooner than any other sort. The Chili Strawberry will grow to the size of a hen's egg. The best dung, if any, for strawberries, is that of cows, sheep and pigeons. In order to have them later in the season, and to afford a succession, cut off the tops of some before they blossom, which will retard their ripening, until the forward ones are gone. Many people keep them constantly strung, but I should imagine that wounds them, except in the proper season. It is thought a clayey soil suits them best, because the best are found at Hammersmith, where the best and most bricks are made. Ashes, if not in too great a quantity, (for they are then too hot) suit them very well.

SAGE, Salvia, sales vitae, may be propagated in any of the summer months, if watered and shaded until it has taken root. It delights in a dry poor soil. There are fifteen different sorts, but the common or green, and the red are principally cultivated. The broad leaved Sage is preferable for tea.

SALSIFY, or goat's beard, Tragopogon, sow in March or April, in rows a foot asunder; keep the plants six inches distance, and take them up when the leaves decay.

TANSY, Tanacetum, is propagated from the creeping roots which shoot out if undisturbed, and may 47 be planted in spring or autumn, at about a foot distance. The paths round the bed should be often dug, in order to keep the roots within bounds.

THYME, Thymus. This is to be propagated either from the seed, or parting the roots. If from the former, the seed should be sown in March; if from the latter, the slips from the roots should be planted the latter end of the same month, about six inches distant. This plant impoverishes the ground much, for nothing will succeed in land where thyme has grown the preceding year.

TURNEP, Rapa. The white and purple rooted Turnep, are the two sorts chiefly cultivated in England for the table. They delight in a light sandy soil, and not rich, for that makes them sticky and rank. Fresh land suits them better than land worn out, and will communicate to them a sweeter flavour. The gardeners about London sow their seed successively from March to August, for the market, though such as are sown early are liable to be eaten by the fly in dry weather, wherefore it is advisable to water; but the farmers sow from June to the middle of August; after that time they will not apple kindly, and if you intend your crop for the table, in the summer it would be proper, if possible, to put your seed into a moist soil, and in some open place not near hedges, &c. It is said they are a great improvement to barren land. The ground intended for this purpose should be well worked, and made as fine as it can be: and if you sow a large quantity, it should be in drills very thin, the common 48 allowance being one pound to the acre, though two are very sufficient, and should be harrowed in, and rolled in order to break the clods, and in ten days your seed will come up. When your plant has. four leaves, your ground should be hoed, and the Turneps pulled, to be about six inches asunder, and about three weeks or a month after they should be hoed a second time, and left within eighteen inches, or two feet, for what they want in number will be sufficiently compensated in weight; ten inches are a sufficient distance for roots intended for the table, because the largest are not generally esteemed the sweetest. It is but of late years that Turneps have been sown in the fields for cattle, and yet it was practised by the ancients, for Columella recommends the sowing Rape for cattle. In many parts of England, at this day, they are ignorant of the method, for they sow their seed with barley in the spring, and when the barley is cut, the Turneps afford the sheep something green to pick up. The proper method of sowing Turneps in the field is with the drill plough, in rows three, four, five, and six feet asunder; the last is most recommended. Lord Townsend¹⁶ sowed an acre in drills, and worked it with the plough, and another acre in broad cast and hoed by hand, and the Turneps sown in drills yielded a ton and a half in weight more than those which were sown in the other husbandry. The great danger Turneps are liable to, is from the fly, in dry weather, when the leaf is tender and smooth, wherefore you ought to sow a little Soot along the 49 drills, which will keep the fly off, until the rough leaf comes on, and then the fly will not touch it. Caterpillars sometimes attack these plants when they have surmounted the enmity of the fly, but some hungry poultry turned into the Turnep field or patch in a morning, will soon get it rid of these insects. Miller recommends feeding cattle or sheep on Turneps, within hurdles, which should be removed every day, otherwise they will destroy a great quantity more than they can eat: all the best mutton in England is fed on Turneps, and it is a vulgar mistake to say it makes it rank. In order to save seed, some of the fairest plants should be transplanted in February, about three feet asunder each way.

JANUARY.

Prepare hot-beds for Cucumbers: as little can be done this month in a garden, I would advise the preparing of your dung, and carrying it to your beds, that it may be ready to spread on in February.

FEBRUARY.

Sow Asparagus, make your beds and fork up the old ones, sow Loaf Cabbages: latter end transplant Cauliflowers, sow Carrots, and transplant for seed; prick out endive for seed, sow Lettuce, Melons in hot-beds, sow Parsnips, take up the old roots and 50 prick out for seed, sow Peas and prick them into your hot-beds, sow Radishes twice, plant Strawberries, plant out Turnips for seed, spade deep and make it fine, plant Beans.

MARCH.

Slip your Artichokes, if fit, plant Kidney Beans, Cabbages, Celery, Parsley, Cucumbers, Currants, Chamomile, Celandine, Nasturtium, Featherfew, Fennel, Ivy, Horse Radish, Hyssop, Lavender, Lettuce, Radishes twice, Marjoram, Marsh Mallow, Mint, Melons, Millet, Mugwort, Onions, and for seed, Peas twice, Potatoes, Raspberry, Rosemary, Rue, Spinach, Tansy, Thyme, Turneps. You may begin to mow your grass walks, and continue so to do every morning, and roll them; turf this month; plant Box.

APRIL.

If Artichokes were not slipped last month, do it this, plant bushel and garden Beans, sow Cabbages the twelfth, sow Cauliflowers, Celery, Cresses, Nasturtium, Lettuce, Peas, Radishes twice; Sage will grow in this or any other month; Turneps, sow Salsify early, Pepper; turf this month.

MAY.

Latter end sow Brocoli, Celery, Cucumbers for pickles, Endive, Featherfew, Hyssop, cuttings of 51 Marsh Mallow, Melons, Peas, sow Radishes twice, Kidney Beans; turf this month.

JUNE.

Cabbages should be sown, sow Radishes twice, transplant Cabbages, prick out Cauliflowers, prick out Brocoli, draw up by the roots all your weeds.

JULY.

Transplant Brocoli, sow Cabbages, Coleworts, transplant Cauliflowers to stand, Endive, gather Millet seed, take up Onions, sow Radishes twice, sow Turneps, plant Kidney Beans to preserve.

AUGUST.

Sow Cabbages, later end Carrots, get your Cucumber seed, sow Cresses, prick out Endive; early sow Lettuce, Mullein, gather Onion seed, plant Garlick, get Parsnep seed; twelfth, sow Peas for the fall, sow Radishes; middle, sow Spinach, though some say not until after the twentieth, sow Turneps.

SEPTEMBER

Sow Cabbages tenth, sow Cauliflowers, plant cuttings of Currants, Clary, Comfrey, plant cuttings of Gooseberries, sow Radishes, plant layers of suckers of Raspberries, Rosemary, plant out Strawberries, 52 string your Strawberries, and dress your beds, plant Tansy.

OCTOBER.

Latter end cut down your Asparagus, and cover your beds with dung, plant Beans for spring, sow Cabbages twentieth; transplant Cauliflowers, plant Horse Radish, prick Lettuce into boxes, sow Peas for the hot-bed, Radishes; turf this month.

NOVEMBER.

Take up your Cabbages, sow Cabbages, take up your Cauliflowers, such as are flowered, and house them, take up your Carrots, trench all your vacant land, prune your trees and vines, plant out every thing of the tree or shrub kind, that has a root to it; if any thing is done to your Artichokes, this is a good month; plant Box; turf early.

DECEMBER.

Cover your Endive with brush, cover Celery, and every thing else that needs shelter; if the weather will admit, turn over the ground that is trenched, in order to mellow and pulverize it. Whatever will prevent delay, and enable you to begin spading in February, should be done this month.

NOTES

^1. (p. 5) Miller, Philip. The Gardeners Dictionary. 6th edition. London, 1762. Folio. Also same: Abridged from the last folio edition by the author. 4th edition. London, 1754. 3v. 80.

^2. (p. 5) Bradley, Richard. New Improvements of Planting and Gardening. London, 1717-18. 3v. Also same: 6th edition. London, 1731.

^3. (p. 5) "faba, gr. to eat", cf. Ruffin's edition, Farmers' Register, 1839: "faba fagein, gr. to eat."

^4. (p. 6) Cf. Ruffin's edition: "Phaseolus, Phaselos (great or long swift ship)."

^5. (p. 8) Cf. Miller. Gardeners Dictionary, 6th edition: "The Musk-Cabbage has, through Negligence, been almost lost in England, though for eating it is one of the best Kinds we have."

^6. (p. 10) "On the 10th or 12th of August." As these precise dates do not occur in any of the other editions of Miller's Dictionary, this quotation is conclusive proof that Randolph used one of those cited above.

^7. (p. 40) Jefferson, in his Notes on Virginia, says that Williamsburg is in the hottest part of the State. The interest shown by the early Virginians in meteorological data is noteworthy. For the vicinity of Williamsburg we have not only the observations made by Jefferson in the years 1772-1775, but also a calendar of the weather for the year 1759, by Lieut. Gov. Francis Fauquier. which is appended to Burnaby's Travels through the Middle Settlements of North America (London 1775).

^8. (p. 11) Thomas Turner of Walsingham on the Rappahannock, who died in 1768.

^9. (p. 21) Cf. Miller, Gardeners Dictionary, 6th edition: "Chamaemelium odoratissimum."

^10. (p. 29) Philip Ludwell (1716-1767), of Green Spring, third of the name and last of the Virginia Ludwells, who returned to England to reside about 1761 or 1762, is probably the "Col. Ludwell" here mentioned.

^11. (p. 30) It is remarkable that a melon which was considered so delicious should not be mentioned under this name in other works on gardening, but I have failed to discover it anywhere save in the first edition of Gardiner and Hepburn's American Gardener, where it is noted among the best varieties, showing that it was still known in 1804. Randolph's guess that it might have been introduced into England after the publication of Miller's Dictionary is not borne out by later editions of that work, in which the number of melons worthy of cultivation is cut down rather than increased. Nor have I been able to identify the Diarbekr with the Zatta, which is given in all Issues of the Dictionary after 1740. Except in the 6th edition it is spelled "Zatta," which is the usual form of the name, and the variety is evidently a very old one, as the name is found in Caspar Bauhin's Phytopinax (1696).

^12. (p. 81) Although the names "Portugal Melon" and "Dormer's Melon" reappear in the 7th edition of Miller's Dictionary, "King Charles's Pocket Melon" occurs only in the 6th and its Abridgement.

^13. (p. 36) Cf. Miller, Gardeners Dictionary, 6th edition: "The Ciboule, and the Scallion, I believe to be the same, altho' by most Authors they are made two distinct Species; and the Welsh Onion differs so little from them, as to render it difficult to determine wherein the Difference consists … there is likewise so great an Affinity between the Eschalot or Shallot, as it is commonly called, and the Cives, as to render it doubtful whether they are distinct Species."

^14. (p. 89) "Spanish marollo Peas;" i. e., Spanish Morotto of Miller's Dictionary, evidently the variety advertised for sale by "William Wills, Chirurgeon in Richmond Town, and John Donlevy in Petersburg;" in the Virginia Gazette in March, 1767 and 1768, as "Spanish Morattoes" or "Morotoes."

^15. (p. 45) The statement that the pine apple strawberry had never been brought into Virginia is of great interest, although somewhat tempered by the next, that it was rare even in England, unless the latter was based neon Randolph's own observations during his English sojourn in 1745-1749. Miller says nothing of its rarity, remarking merely that it is called Drayton from being much grown in that place, and that it "seldom produces much fruit in warm dry land." This section on the strawberry is quoted extensively in The Strawberry in North America (New York. 1917), by S. W. Fletcher, who tentatively credits the Treatise on Gardening to Col John Taylor (1760-1824), of Caroline, who published the first edition of his "Arator" essays under the pen name, "A Citizen of Virginia." Dr. Fletcher supposes its date to be about 1794. Although much of this matter is compiled directly from Miller, it happens that Randolph adds considerable information not to be found in the Gardeners Dictionary, and the determination of his authorship and placing of the book at least as far back as 1770, add greatly to its value as history of strawberry, culture.

^16. (p. 48) "Lord Townsend," i. e., Charles, second Viscount Townshend (1674-1738), who, on his retirement from political life in 1730, experimented with the cultivation of turnips on a large scale at his estate of Raynham, in Norfolk, thus earning for himself the soubriquet of "Turnip" Townshend.

III. Thomas Jefferson's Garden Book, 1766-1824, with Relevant Extracts from His Other Writings, annotated by Edwin M. Betts (Philadelphia, 1944), pp. 1-147.

1767

Peas

Feb 20. sowed a bed of forwardest and a bed of midling peas.
*500 of these peas weighed 3 oz - 18 dust. about 2500 fill a pint.
Mar. 9. both beds of peas up.
p. 4

Apr. 24. forwardest peas of Feb. 20. come to table.38p. 5

38 Forwardest peas planted on February 20, came up on March 9; they were ready for the table on April 24, a total of 64 days from planting to eating.p. 9

May 28. latest peas of Feb. 20. will come to table within about 4 days.48
48 February 20 to June 2, 103 days for this variety of pea to come to table.
p. 9

Mar. 17. sowed a bed of forwardest peas and a bed of the latest all.
Apr. 1. peas of the Mar. 17 just appearing.
p. 4

May 28. forwardest peas of March 17. come to table.47p. 5

47 Peas of March 17 appeared above ground on April 1. They came to table on May 28, a total of 73 days from time of planting to eating.p. 9

Asparagus

Mar. 15. planted asparagus seed in 5 beds of 4 f. width. 4 rows in each.p. 4

Apr. 25. Asparagus 3 inches high, and branched. p. 5

Celery

Mar 23. sowed 2 rows of Celery 9 I. apart. sowed 2 rows of Spanish onions & 2. do. of Lettuce.p. 4

Apr. 9 sowed 3 rows of Celery, 2 do. of Lettuce -- 2 do. of Radish.p. 5

Spanish Onions

Mar. 23 sowed 2 rows of Celery 9 I. apart. sowed 2 rows of Spanish onions & 2. do. of Lettuce.p. 4

Lettuce

Mar. 23 sowed 2 rows of Celery 9 In. apart. Sowed 2 rows of Spanish onions & 2. do. of Lettuce.p. 4

Apr. 9 sowed 3 rows of Celery. 2 do. of Lettuce -- 2 do. of Radish.p. 5

May 27. sowed Lettuce, Radish, Broccoli & Cauliflower.p. 5

Strawberries

Apr. 7. planted strawberry roots.
May 28. * strawberries come to table. note this is the first year of their bearing having been planted in the spring of 1766. and on average the plants bear 20 strawberries on each. 100 fill half a pint.
p. 5

Radish

Apr. 9. sowed 3 rows of Celery, 2 do. of Lettuce [ illeg.]p. 5

May 27. sowed Lettuce, Radish, Broccoli, & Cauliflower. p. 5

Broccoli

May 27. sowed Lettuce, Radish, Broccoli, & Cauliflowerp. 5

Cauliflower

May 27. sowed Lettuce, Radish, Broccoli, & Cauliflowerp. 5

Artichokes

July 5. * Colo Moore tells me a hill of artichokes generally bears 8. of a year, and they continue in season about 6. weeks.p. 6

Cucumbers

July 31. Cucumbers⁶³ come to table.p. 6

⁶³ no mention is made of the planting date.p. 10

Cherries

Aug. 1. inoculated May cherry buds in 4. stocks of unknown kind.
3. inoculated common cherry buds into stocks of large kind at Monticello.
p. 6

1768

Peas

Feb. 24. sowed a patch of early peas, having first soaked them. Charleton Hotspur. *500 of these peas weighed 3oz-7dwt 2000 filled a pint accurately.
Mar. 5. sowed a patch of Spanish Marutto peas.
14. peas of Feb. 24. just appearing.⁴
28. peas of Mar. 5 just appearing.⁵
p. 12

⁴ The Charlton Hotspur requires 19 days to appear above ground.
⁵ The Spanish Morotto requires 24 days to appear above ground.
p. 14

1769

Cherries

Mar. 14. planted on the S. E. side of the hill as follows on the Ridge beginning at the bottom.
2. rows of cherries intended for stocks to inoculation.
p. 15

Apples

Mar. 14. planted on the S. E. side of the hill as follows on the Ridge beginning at the bottom.
2. [rows] of New York apples ingrafted.
p. 15

Peaches

Mar. 14. planted on the S. E. side of the hill as follows: on the Ridge beginning at the bottom.
1. [row] of Peach stocks for inoculating almonds
p. 15

Figs

Mar. 14. planted on the S. E. side of the hill as follows in the Hollow.
2. do. [rows] of figs.
p. 15

Peaches

Mar. 14. planted on the S. E. side of the hill as follows In the Hollow.
1. do. [Row] Peach stocks for inoculating apricots.
p. 15

Cucumbers

July 27. * Nichs Meriwether says that 30. hills of cucumbers 4. f. apart will supply a middling family plentifully.p. 16

July 27. *Millar's Gard's dict.¹⁸ sais that 50. hills of Cucumbers will yeild 400. cucumbers a week during the time they are in season which he sais is 5 weeks. so that 50 hills will yeild 2000. or 1 hill yeild 40. cucumbers.p. 16

¹⁸ Philip Miller…The Gardener's Dictionary, published in 1731, in London…

Watermelons

July 27. * Nich. Lewis thinks 40. f. square of watermelons will supply a family that is not very large.p. 16

1771

Peas

Mar. 6. sowed a patch of peas after steeping them in in [sic] water 24. hours. (note the seed came from J. Bolling's)
25. peas up.⁸
p. 22

May 30. peas of Mar. 6. come to table.¹³p. 23

⁸ Twenty days for peas to come up. They were planted March 6.p. 28

¹³ The peas of March 6 were up on March 25 and came to the table on May 30. Eighty-six days elapsed from the time of planting to eating.p. 29

Mar. 29. sowed peas (from T. Morgan's) planted 2 beds of Asparagus seed.p. 22

May 8. eat peas at Barclay¹⁰ in Charles City.

p. 22

¹⁰ Barclay (= Berkeley) the home of Benjamin Harrison…Jefferson here intends by his reference to peas to compare the time that peas came to the table at Charles City the time time of their appearance on the table at Monticello. Jefferson's peas came to the table on May 30. There was a difference of 22 days.p. 28

Grapes

Mar. 28. planted 5. grapes from N. Lewis's on S. E. edge of garden.p. 22

Asparagus

Mar. 29. sowed peas. (from T. Morgan's)
planted 2 beds of Asparagus seed.
p. 22

Strawberries

May 15. eat strawberries at Doctr. Rickman'sp. 22

Cherries

Sep. 30
Trees. Lilac.-wild Cherry.-Dog-wood.-Red-bud.-Horse chestnut.-Catalpa.-Magnolia.-Mulberry.-Locust.-Honey-suckle.-Jessamine.-Elder.-Poison oak.-p. 23

1772

Peas

Mar. 30. sowed a patch of latter peas.³
other patches were sowed afterwards.
p. 33

³ A later variety of Pisum sativum, L. Randolph (Gardening: 39) lists Rouncilvals, the Spanish morotto, and the marrowfat or Dutch admiral as the later kind. He writes: "These…are intended to come in succession, when the forward kind are gone. You should sow your peas every fortnight, and as the hot weather comes on the latter sort should be in a sheltered situation, otherwise they will burn up."p. 36

July 15. sowed patch of peas for the Fall.p. 33

July 22. had the last dish of our spring peas.⁸p. 33

⁸ The spring peas were planted around March 30. This was a long bearing time for peas.p. 36

Cucumbers

July 15. Cucumbers came to table.p. 33

[Note - no reference to when planted]

Celery

July 15. planted out Celeryp. 33

Snap Beans

July 15. planted snap-beans.p. 33

Potatoes

July 31. had Irish potatoes from the garden.p. 33

Peaches

Octob. 3. gathered 2. plumb-peaches at Monticello.¹⁸p. 34

¹⁸ This is the first fruit, of which there is a record, gathered at Monticello. The tree was probably planted in 1769, when a large number of fruit trees was set out. We have been unable to identify a plumb-peach. This entry in the Account Book 1772 Reads: Oct. 8, this day gatherd 2 plumb peaches at Monticello."p. 38

1773

Peas

Mar. 12. sowed a patch of Early peas, & another of Marrow fats.p. 39

Apr. 1. both patches of peas up.
3. sowed a patch of Early peas & another of Marrow-fats.
May 22. first patch of peas came to table. Note this spring is remarkeably forward.
p. 40

Strawberries

Apr. 1 set out strawberries.p. 40

1774

Peas

Mar. 10. sowed a bed of Early & a bed of Marrow-fat peas.p. 47

Mar. 21. Peas of Mar. 10 are up.23p. 48

23 Twelve days for peas planted March 10 to germinate and come above ground.p. 58

Mar. 23. sowed the following seeds distinguished by numbered sticks.
No. 12. Cluster peas or Branch peas.²⁴
p. 48

²⁴ A variety of Pisum sativum L. probably the same as Bush Pea and akin to the Tom Thumb ground of peas.p. 58

Mar. 24. sowed the following things distinguished by numbered sticks.
No. 8
9} early & later peas from Col. Cary.

Apr. 4. No. 4 the peas of Mar. 24. come up.p. 52

Apr. 6. No. 65. Hotspur peas. Monticello.⁷²
No. 66. Marrow fat do. do.
p. 52

⁷² These Hotspur peas came from Jefferson's plants ground at Monticello.p. 62

Apr. 25. sowed 4 rows of forward peas.p. 54

May 2. sowed

No. 3. Carrots
6. Spinach.
10. Curled Parsley.
11. Peas.
20. Rape.
32. Savoys
73. Coleworts
75. Broccoli
40. Ice Lettuce

from Dr. Brown'sp. 55

May 16. first dish of peas from earliest patch.⁹⁷p. 55

97 These pease were sown March 10, were up by March 21, and came to the table May 26 [sic], making 78 days from time of planting to eating.p. 65

May 26. a second patch of peas come to table.⁹⁸p. 55

⁹⁸ Probably the cluster peas sown on March 23.p. 65

June 5. a third & fourth patch of peas come to table.¹⁰⁰
13. a fifth patch of peas come in.
July 13. last dish of peas.
p. 56

100 On June 5 the third and fourth patch of peas came to the table, on June 13, a fifth patch; and on July 3 the last dish of peas came to the table. By planting the peas in succession, Jefferson was able to have fresh peas on the table from May 16 to July 13.p. 65

Black-eyed peas

Mar 25. [sowed the following things distinguished by numbered sticks]
No. 4 Black eyed peas which yield two crops. Cole R. Randolph.
p. 49

Onions

Mar. 15. [sowed the following seeds & distinguished them by sticking numbered sticks in the beds.]
No. 26 Cipolle bianche di Tuckahoe,¹⁰ the Spanish onion of Miller.¹¹

p. 47

¹⁰ Translated, white onion from Tuckahoe. Mazzei had probably given this onion to Mr. Randolph, at Tuckahoe, and he in turn had given it to Jefferson…
¹¹ This white onion was called Spanish Onion by Philip Miller, in The Gardener's Dictionary (London, 1759).
p. 58

Mar. 23. [sowed the following seeds distinguished by numbered sticks.]
No. 55. Cipolle. Col. Cary. Onions.
p. 48

Black-Eyed Peas

Aug. 3. black eyed peas come to table.¹⁰⁴

p. 56

¹⁰⁴ The black-eyed peas were sown on March 25, a period of 132 days from planting to serving at the table.p. 65

Garlic

Mar. 15. sowed the following seeds & distinguished them by sticking numbered sticks in the beds Aglio di Toscuria. Garlic.⁸p. 47

⁸ Translated, garlic from Tuscany, Italy.p. 58

Salsify

Mar. 15. [sowed the following seeds & distinguished them by sticking numbered sticks in the beds.]
No. 33 salsafia.¹³
p. 47

¹³Tragopagon porrifolius called also salsaify and oyster plant.p. 58

Cabbage

Mar. 15. [sowed the following seeds & distinguished them by sticking numbered sticks in the beds.]
No. 34. Cabbage.
p. 47

Mar. 31. [planted the following seeds, trees, etc.]
No. 62. Red Cabage.
p. 51

Lettuce

Mar. 15. [sowed the following seeds & distinguished them by sticking numbered sticks in the beds.]
No. 35. Lettuce.
36. Lettuce (different)
p. 47

Mar. 23 [sowed the following seeds & distinguished them by sticking numbered sticks in the beds.]
No. 54. Lattuga. Lettuce.
p. 48

May 2. sowed

No. 3 carrots.
6. Spinach.
10. curled Parsley.
11. Peas.
20. Rape.
32. Savoys
73. Coleworts
75. Broccoli
40. Ice Lettuce

from Dr. Brown'sp. 55

July 18. last lettuce from Gehee's¹⁰¹p. 56

¹⁰¹...This lettuce was probably that Gehee (McGehee) had planted.p. 65

Radishes

Mar. 15. [sowed the following seeds & distinguished them by sticking numbered sticks in the beds.]
No. 38. Radishes.
p. 47

Mar. 23. [sowed the following seeds & distinguished them by sticking numbered sticks in the beds.]
No. 60. Salmon Radishes.
p. 49

Mar. 26. [sowed the following things distinguished by numbered sticks]
in the meadow
No. 50. Nasturium in 35 little hills.
29. Cresses
23. Celery

Radichio. the same as No. 15... p. 49

in the meadow
No. 50.	Nasturium in 35 little hills.
29.	Cresses
23.	Celery

Mar. 31 [planted the following seeds, trees, etc.]
Radishesp. 51

Apr. 30. sowed

No. 67. white beet
68. Red beet from England
69. Scarlet Radishes. Tuckelise.

pp. 54 & 55

Beans

Mar. 23 [sowed the following seeds distinguished by numbered sticks.]
No. 13. Windsor beans.
p. 48

Mar. 23. [sowed the following seeds distinguished by numbered sticks.]
No. 14. Green beans²⁶ from Colo Bland.
p. 48

²⁶ Probably the Green Windsor Bean, a longer bean than the Windsor.p. 59

Mar. 23 [sowed the following seeds distinguished by numbered sticks.]
No. 51. Beans Dr. Bland
p. 48

Mar. 29. ...No. 18. Asparagus
5. Beans Dr. Clayton
Peach trees at Monticello in general bloom.
p. 50

Apr. 1. [sowed & planted as follows.]
No. 25. Fagiuoli d'Augusta.⁵⁵
p. 51

⁵⁵ Jefferson is here translating the phrase "beans from Augusta County, Virginia" into Italian. These beans were probably given to Thomas Adams, Mazzei's adviser, who was at this time building a house in Augusta County. Mr. Adams gave them to Jefferson.p. 61

Apr. 1. [sowed & planted as follows.]
No. 19. do. [Fagiuoli] verdi coll' occhio bianco.⁵⁶
D. Hylton
p. 51

⁵⁶ Translated green beans with white eyes.p. 61

Apr. 1. [sowed & planted as follows.]
No. 71. Bonny-Bess.⁵⁸ Colo Bland.
p. 51

⁵⁸ Probably a variety of bean or pea.

Apr. 1. [sowed & planted as follows.]
No. 70 Snap-beans. Colo Bland.
p. 51

Apr. 1. [sowed & planted as follows.]
No. 2. Fagiuoli Coll' occhio di Provenza.⁵⁹
p. 51

⁵⁹ Translated, beans with the eye from Provence.p. 61

Apr. 1. [sowed & planted as follows.]
No. 7. do. [Fagiuoli] bianchi di Parigi⁶⁰
p. 51

⁶⁰ Translated, white beans from Paris.

Apr. 5. No. 24. Purple beans.⁶⁸ Jas. Donald.
17. White & purple do. do.
p. 52

68 A variety of the English bean, Vicia faba L.p. 62

Apr. 5. No. 21. Sugar beans.p. 52

Apr. 5. No. 1: Fagiuoli bianchi di Toscana.⁷¹p. 52

⁷¹ Translated, white beans from Tuscany.p. 62

June 4. Windsor beans come to table.⁹⁹p. 59

⁹⁹ The Windsor beans were sown on March 26 making a total of 74 days.p. 65

Spinach

Mar. 23. [sowed the following seeds distinguished by numbered sticks.]
No. 37. Spinaci. Spinach.
p. 48

May 2. sowed:

No. 3. Carrots
6. Spinach
10. Curled Parsley.
11. Peas.
20. Rape.
32. Savoys.
73. Coleworts.
75. Broccoli
45. Ice Lettuce

from Dr. Brown'sp. 55

Carrots

Mar. 23. [Sowed the following seeds distinguished by numbered sticks.]
No. 45. Carote di Pisa.³⁰ Carrots.
p. 48

³⁰ Translated, carrot from Pisa, Italy.p. 59

Mar. 23. [sowed the following seeds distinguished by numbered sticks.
No. 49. Carote. Carrots.
p. 48

Mar. 23. [Sowed the following seeds distinguished by numbered sticks.]
No. 61. Carrots.
p. 49

May. 2. sowed

No. 3. carrots
6. Spinach.
10. Curled Parsley.
11. Peas.
20. Rape.
32. Savoys.
73. Coleworts.
75. Broccoli.
40. Ice Lettuce

from Dr. Brown'sp. 55

Broccoli

Mar. 23. [Sowed the following seeds distinguished by numbered sticks.]
No. 48. Cavol broccolo Francese die Pisa.³¹ Broccoli.
p. 48

³¹ Translated, French broccoli from Pisa.p. 59

May 2. Sowed

No. 3. Carrots
6. Spinach
10. Curled Parsley.
11. Peas.
20. Rape.
32. Savoys
73. Coleworts
75. Broccoli
40. Ice Lettuce

from Dr. Brown'sp. 55

Parsnips

May. 23. [Sowed the following seeds distinguished by numbered sticks.]
No. 57. Parsnips. Col. Cary.
59. Parsnips Mr. Eppes.
p. 49

Nasturtium

Mar. 26. [Sowed the following seeds distinguished by numbered sticks.]
in the meadow
No. 50. Nasturium in 35 little hills.
29. Cresses
23. Celery

Radichio the same as No. 15...p. 49

in the meadow
No. 50.	Nasturium in 35 little hills.
29.	Cresses
23.	Celery

Cresses

Mar. 26. [Sowed the following seeds distinguished by numbered sticks.]
in the meadow
No. 50. Nasturcium in 35. little hills.
29. Cresses
23. Celery
Radichio the same as No. 15…
p. 49

in the meadow
No. 50.	Nasturcium in 35. little hills.
29.	Cresses
23.	Celery

Celery

Mar. 26. [Sowed the following seeds distinguished by numbered sticks.]
in the meadow.
No. 50. Nasturcium in 35 little hills.
29. Cresses
23. Celery

Radichio the same as No. 15...
p. 49

in the meadow.
No. 50.	Nasturcium in 35 little hills.
29.	Cresses
23.	Celery

Mar. 28. ...Solid Celery⁴⁴ in the Meadow.p. 49

⁴⁴ The celery, Apium graveulens var. dulce L., is divided into those with hollow stems and those with solid stemps. The solid celery is either Red or white.

p. 60

Asparagus

Mar. 29. ... No. 18. Asparagus
5. Beans Dr. Clayton
Peace trees at Monticello in general bloom
p. 50

Peaches

Mar. 29. ... No. 18. Asparagus
5. Beans Dr. Clayton.
Peach trees at Monticello in general bloom
p.50

Apples

Mar. 31. planted the following seeds, trees, etc. twenty four apples trees. nineteen cherry trees...from the Mountain plains⁴⁷p. 50

⁴⁷ Mountain Plains was the plantation of Michael Woods on Mechum's River and Lickinghole, Albemarle County.p. 61

Cherries

Mar. 31. planted the following seeds, trees, etc. twenty four apple trees. nineteen cherry trees...} from the Mountain plains⁴⁷p. 50

⁴⁷Mountain Plains was the plantation of Michael Woods on Mechum's River and Lickingdale, Albemarle County.p. 61

Mar. 31. [planted the following seeds, trees, etc.]
No. 8. 4 Ciriege corniole.⁵⁰ (a particular kind of cherry.) 2 of them cracked.
p. 50

⁵⁰ Ciriege is the Italian word for cherry. Corniole is a special variety of Italian cherry.p. 61

Mar. 31. [planted the following seeds, trees, etc.]
No. 1. 198 Cherries of different kinds from Italy.
p. 51

May. 14. cherries ripe.p.55

Raspberries

Mar. 31. [planted the following seeds, trees, etc.]
No. 44. Lamponi. Raspberries (the seeds) in 3 rows.
p. 51

Strawberries

Mar. 31. [planted the following seeds, trees, etc.]
No. 30. Fragole Alpine. Alpine strawberries (the seeds) 3 rows.
p. 51

Mar. 31 [planted the following seeds, trees, etc.]
No. 22. Fragole Mazzese. May Strawberries (the seeds) 3 rows.
p. 51

Mar. 31. [planted the following seeds, trees, etc.]
No. 43. Fragoloni di giardino. large garden strawberries. (the seeds). 1 row.
p. 51

Parsley

Mar. 31. [planted the following seeds, trees, etc.]
a bed of parsley
p. 51

May 2. sowed

No. 3. Carrots.
6. Spinach.
10. Curled Parsley.
11. Peas.
12. Rape.
32. Savoys.
73. Coleworts
75. Broccoli.
40. Ice Lettuce

from Dr. Brown'sp. 55

Turnips

Apr. 1. sowed & planted as follows.
No. 53. turneps. Dr. Bland.
p. 51.

Cucumbers

Apr. 1. [sowed & planted as follows.]
No. 6. Cetriuoli.⁶¹ Webb. 9. Monticini.⁶³
5. do. Eppes. 12. Monticini.
p. 51

⁶¹ Translated, cucumber
⁶³ Translated, 9 little hills.
p. 61

Apr. 5. No. 5. Cucumbers. the same as No. 6, only that these were steeped in water from Mar. 31. till this day when they were sprouted.⁶⁵ 10. hill
do. same as No. 5, only soaked as before. 17 hills.
p. 52

⁶⁵ Another one of Jefferson's experiments with soaking seeds. Farmers in Albemarle County today rarely soak cucumber seeds, certainly no for six days.p. 62

July 23. Cucumbers from our garden.[illegible]

Grapes

Apr. 6. Planted 30 vines just below where the new garden wall will run, towards the Westermost end. 8 of them at the westermost end of the row were Spanish Raisins⁷⁴ from Colo Bland's next to them were 16 native vines from Winslow's in New Kent, and at the Eastermost end were 6 native vines of Monticello. They were planted by some Tuscan Vignerons⁷⁶ who came over with Mr. Mazzei. the manner was as follows. [see next set of cards.]p. 52

74 A variety of the grape, Vitus vinifera "A large and showy grape, ripening late, but requiring a good deal of heat...Bunches large; berries very large, oval, skin thick, dark red, flavour tolerably sweet and Rich." (Downing, Fruits: 238.)
76 Philip Mazzei brought over with him from Italy ten vignerons. They landed in Virginia late in 1773. In the summer of 1774 six others arrived from Luca, Italy. (Garlick Philip Mazzei: 39-43.)
p. 62

From Note 1, p. 56
Philip Mazzei was "an Italian who came to Virginia in the latter part of 1773 to raise grapes and other plants."

Grapes (method)

Apr. 6. A trench 4 f. deep and 4 f. wide was dug. at the bottom were put small green bushes, and on them a thin coat of dung and earth mixed, which raised the bed to within 2 ½ feet of the surface. the cuttings which were from 3 ½ to 6 f. long, and which had been hitherto buried in the earth, were then produced, about 18 I. of their butts were dipt into a thick paste made of cowdung and water and then planted in the bottom, the Raisins 3 f. apart the rest about 2 f. having a stick stuck by each to which it was bound with bear grass in order to support it while the earth should be draw in the earth was then thrown in, the mould first, and afterwards the outer earth in the same order in which it was dug, leaving the bottom clay for the last. the earth was thrown in very loos & care was taken to avoid trampling in it. the trench was not quite filled but left somewhat hollowing to receive & retain the water, & the superfluous earth was left on each side without the trench. then the supporting sticks were drawn out and would have served for the other rows had the plantation been to be continued in such a case, the rows are to be 4 f. apart, so that in fact the whole surface is taken up to the dept of 4 f. the best way of doing it is to dig every other trench, and leave the earth which is thrown out exposed for a twelve month. then the vines may be planted at any time from the middle of November to the first week in April. afterwards dig the other alternate trenches, and leave the earth of these also exposed for a twelvemonth when the latter trenches are planted, leave the superfluous earth in the Ridge between the rows of vines till by the subsidence of the earth it becomes necessary to pull it into the trenches. if any of your grapes turn out illy, cut off the vine & ingraft another on the stock. an acre in vines where they are 2 ½ f. apart in the row will admit 4316 in all.pp. 52-54

Watermelons

Apr. 7. sowed, planted etc as follows.
No. 1. Cocomere di Pistoia.⁷⁸ Watermelons. 34 hills
p. 54

⁷⁸ Translated, watermelons from Pistoia, Italy. Citrullus vulgaris schrud.p. 63

Apr. 7. [sowed, planted etc as follows.]
No. 2. Cocomore di seme Neapolitare.⁷⁹
37 hills.
p. 54

79 Translated watermelon seeds from Naples.p. 63

July 31. Watermelons from our patch.¹⁰²p. 56

¹⁰² Today watermelons in Albemarle County do not ripen at so early a date.p. 65

Cantaloupe

Apr. 7. [sowed, planted etc as follows.]
No. 12. Zatte di Massa.⁸⁰ Canteloupe melons. 18 hills
p. 54

⁸⁰ Translated, cantaloupe melons from Massa. Cucumis melo var. cantalupensis Naud.

Pumpkins

Apr. 5.
Meadow
[No] 7. Zucche bianche. white pumpkins 22 Monticini
8. Zucche here. black do.⁸³ 42 hills.
9 do. di Monacho. 8 monticini
10. do. Lauri⁸⁴ 9 monticini
11. do. da Pescatori⁸⁵ 3. do.

p. 54

Meadow
[No] 7.	Zucche bianche. white pumpkins 22 Monticini
8.	Zucche here. black do.⁸³ 42 hills.
9	do. di Monacho. 8 monticini
10.	do. Lauri⁸⁴ 9 monticini
11.	do. da Pescatori⁸⁵ 3. do.

⁸³ Cucurbita pepo The black and white pumpkins were varieties of this species. No. 9, translated, black pumpkin from Menaro.
⁸⁴ Translated, black pumpkin from Lauri.
⁸⁵ Translated, black pumpkin used by fishermen in Italy.
p. 64

Beets

Apr. 30. sowed

No. 67. white beet
68. Red beet
69. Scarlet radished. Tuckahoe

from England
p. 54-55

Indian Corn

Aug. 3. Indian corn comes to table.¹⁰³p. 56

¹⁰³ Zea mays Jefferson did not indicate when it was planted.p. 65

1775

Peas

Feb. 25. sowed a bed of Early and a bed of Marrowfat peas.p. 66

Peaches

Mar. 10. the peach trees at Monticello in blossom
[later that month (no date given) a frost killed at the peaches at Monticello.]²
p. 66

² Pt Charlottesville, where a continuous weather record has been kept for the past 40 years, the killing frost average dates are April 6. the last in the spring, and November 5, the first in the fall.p. 68

1777

Peas

March. 10. sowed a patch of forward & a patch of latter peas.p. 70

273

March 21. peas up.⁹p. 71

⁹ The peas planted on March 10 required days to come up.p. 73

March 26. sowed patch of peas qu.¹⁰ whether forward or latter in N Westermost beds.p. 71

¹⁰ qu. is the abbreviation for query or question.p. 74

April 1. sowed a square of peas of one kind only. qu. what?p. 71

274

April. 7. sowed a bed of peas.p. 71

April 8. peas of March 26 up.¹²p. 71

¹² The peas planted on March 26 required 14 days to care up.p. 74

April 14. sowed bed of peas.p. 71

June 4. forward peas of March 10 come to table.p. 71

275

July 24. sowed Spinach endive, lettuce, crosses & peas.p. 71

Cabbage

March 11. sowed Cavolo Romano Pasnazzo⁴ (purple cabbage) in lower division of the uppermost triangular bed.
sowed Neapolitan cabbage⁶ in the division next above.
& Cavolo Romano a broccolini⁷ (Cabbage) in the next
p. 70

⁴ Translated, Roman purple cabbage.
⁶ A cabbage from Naples given him by Mazzei.
⁷ Translated a Roman cabbage in the form of small broccoli
p. 73

Lettuce

March sowed also lettucep. 70

April 9. sowed Radishes, lettuce, endive, & red mustard.p. 71

July 24. Sowed Spinach, endive, lettuce, cresses & peas.p. 71

276

Radishes

March 11. sowed also lettuce & Radishes.p. 70

April 9. sowed Radishes, lettuce, endive & Red Mustard.p. 71

Strawberries

March 12. planted 2 beds of strawberries.p. 71

March 13. planted another bed of strawberries.p. 71

Peaches

April 1. Peach trees & Cherry trees at Monticello begin to blossom.¹¹p. 71

¹¹ In 1774 the peach trees bloomed on March 29. In 1775 they were in bloom as early as March 10, while this year they bloomed as late as April 1.p. 74

Cherries

April 1. Peach trees & Cherry trees at Monticello begin to bloom.¹¹p. 71

¹¹ In 1774 the peach trees bloomed on March 29. In 1775 they were in bloom as early as March 10, while this year they bloomed as late as April 1.p. 74

Cucumbers

April 19. planted Cucumbers, Lima beans, Irish potatoes.p. 71

July 6. cucumbers come to table.p. 71

Beans (Lima)

April 19. planted Cucumbers, Lima beans, Irish Potatoes.p. 71

Irish Potatoes

April 19. planted Cucumbers, Lima beans, Irish potatoes.p. 71

Spinach

July 24. sowed Spinach, endive, lettuce, cresses, & peas.p. 71

Cresses

July 24. sowed Spinach, endive lettuce, cresses & peas.p. 71

1778

Peas

Feb. 26. Sowed a patch of Hotspur peas.p. 75

Mar. 14. sowed Charlton & Early pearl peas.²² the former are in the 4 lower Rows.p. 76

²² An early variety of Pisum sativum. The pearlp. 73

Mar. 14. peas of Feb. 26 just appearing.²⁵p. 76

²⁵ It took 17 days for the Hotspur peas planted on February 26, to appear above ground.p. 83

Mar. 14. sowed a bed of Early Charlton, and another of Early pearl peas.p. 77

Carrots

Feb. 28. planted carrots & Salsafyp. 75

Salsify

Feb. 28. planted carrots & Salsafyp. 75

Lettuce

Mar. 2. sowed lettuce & Madeira orions.³p. 75

³ A variety of Pillium cepa"The variety is much prized for its extraordinary size, and for its mild, sugary flavor...It requires a long, warm season for its greatest perfection."(Burr, Vegetables: 135.)p. 81

Mar. 14. lettuce of Mar. 2. come up.²⁷p. 77

²⁷ Thirteen days were required for lettuce copper above ground.p. 83

281

Onions

Mar. 2. sowed lettuce & Madeira onions.³p. 75

³ A variety of Allium cepa"The variety is much prized for its extraordinary size, and for its mild, sugary flavor…It requires a long, warm season for its greatest perfection."(Burn, Vegetables: 135.)p. 81

Cherries

Mar. 9-14. ingrafted or planted etc. Cherries, viz
*Carnation, Duke, & Broadnax's — very fine late, Myrilla. Apples, viz. & Newton pippins.
+ Medlar Russetins + Golden wildings, Robinson, Codlin, white, Pears, viz * forward, * Late, * fine late large, Sugar do., 3 kinds of English do., 2 other kinds.
+ these were sent me from Sandy point by Mordecai Debnam, in slips, March 1773. & then ingrafted by P. Morgan.
* these were from Greenspring
pp. 75 & 76

282

Apples

Mar. 9-14. ingrafted, or planted etc. Cherries, viz * Carnation, *Duke, *Broadnax's, *very fine late, Myrilla. Apples viz. *Newtown pippins, + Medlar Russetins +Golden wildings, Robinson, Codlin, white. Pears, viz. *Farwrd, *late, *fire late large, Sugar do. 3 kinds of English do. 2 other kinds.
* these were sent me from Sandy point by Mordecai Debnam, in slips, March 1773 & then ingrafted by P. Morgan.
+ these were from Greenspring.
pp. 75 & 76

Mar. 14. planted in a nursery the following stones & seeds.
No. 10. Apples
p. 76

Nov. 5. planted 27. wild crabs.³⁹p. 79

³⁹ Pyrus coronaria Wild crab apple.[illegible]

283

Peaches

Mar. 14. planted in a nursery the following stories & seeds
No. 1 choice peaches
p. 76

Mar. 14. Peach-trees begin to blossom.²⁴p. 76

²⁴ Its your the peach trees bloomed earlier than in the preceding years.p. 86

Radishes

Mar. 13. sowed Radish seed & Burnet²¹p. 74

²¹ Sanguisorba minor Scop. The young leaves are used as a salad and also for Sheep foragep. 83

Nov. 13. sowed Radishes & burnetp. 76

284

Raspberries

Mar. 14. planted out Raspberries, goose berries & curransp. 76

Beans

Mar. 14. sowed Mazzei's beans ²⁶ snap beans & parsley.p. 77

²⁶ Probably some kind of Italian bean given to Jefferson by Mazzei.p. 83

Parsley

Mar. 14. sowed Mazzei's beans snap beans & parsley.p. 77

285

1780

Peas

He [Jefferson] wrote in the Account Book fore 1780 the following entries:
Mar. 4. pd. Patrick Morton for for stocks & grafting.
Mar. 26. pd. Abel 24. pd. five 1 quart seed peas.
Mar. 27. pd. Gardener at Greenspring for seeds.
p. 90

Peaches

A portion of a letter from George Mason, of Gunston Hall, Fairfax County, written on October 6, shows that his agricultural friends continued to send him plants.
1780
October 6, 1780
Fairfax County, Gunston Hall
Dear Sir,
As my very ill Health, at present, makes my attended at the next Session of the Assembly rather uncertain, I take this opportunity, by my son, of sending you a pint of the Portugal, and best kind of rare-ripe peach stones. Almost all of my Portugal peaches were stolen this year, before they were ripe; but I have saved the few stones I send you myself, & know they are the true sort. I have observed this kind of peach requires more care than most others, & if the trees are not tended, & the Ground cultivated, the fruit is apt to be course & harsh; with due culture the peaches are the finest I ever tasted…The sooner the peach stones are planted the better; if it is deferred 'til late in the winter, very few will come up next spring; they should be secured from the moles by slabs or some such thing, let into the ground
(Jefferson Papers, Library of Congress.)pp. 90 & 91

286

1782

Cherries

Feb. 12. send to Poplar For.-6 Apricot trees, 2 large Morellas,⁴ 2 Kentish cherries⁵ 2. May Dukes.⁶ 2 Carnations. 2 Black hearts.⁷ 2 white hearts.⁸ Newton pippings. 2 Russetins, 2 Golden wilding & some white strawberries.⁹p. 94

⁴ A variety of the sour cherry, Prunus cerasus L. Downing says that he is a fine fruit and that is said to be derived from the dark purple color of its juice, which resembles that of the Morus or mulberry.
⁵ A variety of the save cherry, Prunus cerasus. This is probably what Downing calls the Late Kentish, or the Pie Cherry.
⁶ A variety of the sour cherry, Prunus cerasus. Downing says: "This invaluable early cherry is one of the most popular sorts in all countries, thriving almost equally well in cold or warm climates. This the Black Heart and the Digarreau, are the most extensively diffused of all the finer varieties in the United States."
⁷. "the Black Heart, an old variety is better known than almost any other cherry in this country, and its great fruitfulness and good flavour, together with the hardiness and the large size to which the tree grows, render it everywhere esteemed"
⁸ The White Heart also belongs to the sweet cherry group Downing writes (Fruit: 173): ""An sd variety, long cultivated in this country, and one of the earliest, ripening before the Mayduke"
287
⁹ A variety of Fragara vesca. The white strawberries are the white-fruited forms of the Alpine strawberries, which came from Fragaria vesca.
p. 98

Note. The Carnations are cherries too. See Cherries.
Mar. 9-14, 1778
(pp. 75 & 76)

Apples

Feb. 12. sent to Poplar For. 6 Apricot trees. 1 large Morellas, 2 Kentish cherries 2 May Dukes. 2 Carnations, 2 Black hearts, 2 white hearts, 2 Newtown pippings, 2 Russetins, 2 Golden Wildings & some white strawberries.p. 94

Note: The Newtown pippings, Russetins and Golden Wildings are applies. See Apples, Mar. 9-14, 1773. (pp. 75 & 76).

288

Strawberries

Feb. 12. sent to Poplar For. 6 Apricot trees. 1 large Morellas, 2 Kentish cherries 2 May Dukes. 2 Carnations, 2 Black hearts, 2 white hearts, 2 Newtown pippings, 2 Russetins, 2 Golden Wildings & some white strawberries.9p. 94

⁹ A variety of Fragaria vesca. The white strawberries are the white-fruited forms of the Alpine strawberries, when came from Fragaria vesca L…

Peaches

Mar. 17. Almonds & peaches blossom.p. 94

Oct. 22. 30 bushels of peaches will make 75 galls of mobby³⁸ i.e. 5/12 of its bulk

p. 95

³⁸ In the West Indies mobby is a spirituous liquor made from batatas or sweet potato. In America it is the expressed juice of apples and peaches, used in the distillation of apple and peach brandy; also the brandy [illegible](Oxford English Dictionary 6: 565.)p. 110

289

Raspberries

June 10. Raspberries come & last a month.

p. 94

Nasturtium

From chart on page 94.
Nasturtium blooms in July.

Grapes

Oct. 22. seventeen bushels of winter grapes³⁶ (the stems first excluded made 40 gallons of vinegar of the first [pouring] & pouring water on yeilded __ gallons³⁷ of a weaker kindp. 95

³⁶ It is difficult to tell here whether Jefferson is writing of his winter grapes or setting down some information he had obtained from a book or conversation.p. 99

³⁷ Jefferson failed to write the number of gallons.p. 100

290

Packing fruit for transport

Letter from Jefferson in France, to the Rev. James Madison
Fontainebleau, Oct. 28, 1785
To Reverend James Madison,
…After descending the [hill] again I saw a man cutting fern. I went to him under the pretence of asking the shortest road to town, and afterwards asked for what use he was cutting fern. He bid me that the part of the country furnished a great deal of fruit to Paris. That when packed in straw it acquired an [ill] taste, but that dry fern preserved it perfectly without communicating any taste at all.
p. 106

1786

Method of packing plants sent to France

Letter to Richard [Cary] from Jefferson in Paris (August 12, 1786)
Method of packing the Plants
Take the plants up by the roots, leaving good roots. Trim off all the boughs & cut the stems to the length of your box. Near the tip end of every plant cut a number of notches which will serve as labels, giving the same number to all plants of the same species. Where the plant is too small to be notched, notch a separate stick & tye it to the plant. Make a list on paper of the plants by their names & number of notches.
Take fresh moss just gathered, lay a layer of it at the bottom of the box 2 inches thick, then a layer of plants & again moss alternately, finishing with a layer of moss 2 inches thick, or more if more be necessary to fill the box. large roots must be separately wrapped in moss. (Jefferson Papers L. C.)
p. 117

291

Turnip

Paris Dec. 28. 1786.
(Jefferson to Ferdinand Grand.)
… I did not answer in the instant the letter you favored me with yesterday, because I wished to reflect on the article of seeds for Dr. Franklin, on which you were pleased to ask my opinion, we import annually from England to every part of America garden seeds of all sorts. you may judge therefore that these & what we raise from them furnish garden vegetables in good perfection. the only garden vegetable I find here better than ours, is the turnep.
Of fruits, the pears, & apricots alone are better than ours, and we have not the Apricot-peche at all. but the stones of good apricots & of the peach-apricot would answer well. the fruits of the peach-class do not degenerate from the stone so much as is imagined here we have so much experience of this in America that tho' we graft all other kinds of fruits, we rarely graft the peach, the nectarine, the apricot or the almond. the tree proceeding from the stone yields a faithful copy of its fruit, & the tree is always healthier … .
P. S. I must add that tho' we have some grapes as good as in France, yet we have by no means such a variety, nor so perfect a succession of them. (Jefferson Papers, L. C.)
p. 119

Peaches

Paris Dec. 28. 1786.
(Jefferson to Ferdinand Grand.)
… I did not answer in the instant the letter you favored me with yesterday, because I wished to reflect on the article of seeds for Dr. Franklin, on which you were pleased to ask my opinion, we import annually from England to every part of America garden seeds of all sorts. you may judge therefore that these & what we raise from them furnish garden vegetables in good perfection. the only garden vegetable I find here better than ours, is the turnep.
Of fruits, the pears, & apricots alone are better than ours, and we have not the Apricot-peche at all. but the stones of good apricots & of the peach-apricot would answer well. the fruits of the peach-class do not degenerate from the stone so much as is imagined here we have so much experience of this in America that tho' we graft all other kinds of fruits, we rarely graft the peach, the nectarine, the apricot or the almond. the tree proceeding from the stone yields a faithful copy of its fruit, & the tree is always healthier … .
P. S. I must add that tho' we have some grapes as good as in France, yet we have by no means such a variety, nor so perfect a succession of them. (Jefferson Papers, L. C.)
p. 119

292

Grapes

Paris Dec. 28. 1786.
(Jefferson to Ferdinand Grand.)
… I did not answer in the instant the letter you favored me with yesterday, because I wished to reflect on the article of seeds for Dr. Franklin, on which you were pleased to ask my opinion, we import annually from England to every part of America garden seeds of all sorts. you may judge therefore that these & what we raise from them furnish garden vegetables in good perfection. the only garden vegetable I find here better than ours, is the turnep.
Of fruits, the pears, & apricots alone are better than ours, and we have not the Apricot-peche at all. but the stones of good apricots & of the peach-apricot would answer well. the fruits of the peach-class do not degenerate from the stone so much as is imagined here we have so much experience of this in America that tho' we graft all other kinds of fruits, we rarely graft the peach, the nectarine, the apricot or the almond. the tree proceeding from the stone yields a faithful copy of its fruit, & the tree is always healthier … .
P. S. I must add that tho' we have some grapes as good as in France, yet we have by no means such a variety, nor so perfect a succession of them. (Jefferson Papers, L. C.)
p. 119

1787

Corn

(Jefferson to Nicholas Lewis.)
Paris Sept. 17. 1787.
… I cultivate in my garden here Indian corn for the use of my own table to eat green in our manner. but the species I am able to get here for seed, is hard with a thick skin, & dry. I had at Monticello a species of small white rare ripe corn which we call Homony-corn, and of which we used to make about 20 barrels a year for table use, green, in homony, & in bread. great George will know well what kind I mean. I wish it were possible for me to receive an ear of this in time for the next year. I think it too might be done if you would be so good as to find an opportunity of sending one to mr Madison at New York, and another to mr A. Donald at Richmond. more at your leisure I would ask you to send me also an ear or two of the drying corn from the Cherokee country, some best watermelon seeds, some fine canteloupe melon seeds, seeds of the common sweet potato (I mean the real seeds & not the roots, which cannot be brought here without rotting,) an hundred or two- acorns of the willow oak and about a peck of acorns of the ground oak or dwarf oak, of the kind that George gathered for me one year upon the barrens of buck island creek. as these will be of some bulk, I will ask the favor of you to send them to mr Donald of Richmond who will find a conveiance for them to Havre. (Jefferson Papers. L. C.)
p. 130

293

Watermelon

(Jefferson to Nicholas Lewis.)
Paris Sept. 17. 1787.
… I cultivate in my garden here Indian corn for the use of my own table to eat green in our manner. but the species I am able to get here for seed, is hard with a thick skin, & dry. I had at Monticello a species of small white rare ripe corn which we call Homony-corn, and of which we used to make about 20 barrels a year for table use, green, in homony, & in bread. great George will know well what kind I mean. I wish it were possible for me to receive an ear of this in time for the next year. I think it too might be done if you would be so good as to find an opportunity of sending one to mr Madison at New York, and another to mr A. Donald at Richmond. more at your leisure I would ask you to send me also an ear or two of the drying corn from the Cherokee country, some best watermelon seeds, some fine canteloupe melon seeds, seeds of the common sweet potato (I mean the real seeds & not the roots, which cannot be brought here without rotting,) an hundred or two- acorns of the willow oak and about a peck of acorns of the ground oak or dwarf oak, of the kind that George gathered for me one year upon the barrens of buck island creek. as these will be of some bulk, I will ask the favor of you to send them to mr Donald of Richmond who will find a conveiance for them to Havre. (Jefferson Papers. L. C.)
p. 130

Cantaloupe

(Jefferson to Nicholas Lewis.)
Paris Sept. 17. 1787.
… I cultivate in my garden here Indian corn for the use of my own table to eat green in our manner. but the species I am able to get here for seed, is hard with a thick skin, & dry. I had at Monticello a species of small white rare ripe corn which we call Homony-corn, and of which we used to make about 20 barrels a year for table use, green, in homony, & in bread. great George will know well what kind I mean. I wish it were possible for me to receive an ear of this in time for the next year. I think it too might be done if you would be so good as to find an opportunity of sending one to mr Madison at New York, and another to mr A. Donald at Richmond. more at your leisure I would ask you to send me also an ear or two of the drying corn from the Cherokee country, some best watermelon seeds, some fine canteloupe melon seeds, seeds of the common sweet potato (I mean the real seeds & not the roots, which cannot be brought here without rotting,) an hundred or two- acorns of the willow oak and about a peck of acorns of the ground oak or dwarf oak, of the kind that George gathered for me one year upon the barrens of buck island creek. as these will be of some bulk, I will ask the favor of you to send them to mr Donald of Richmond who will find a conveiance for them to Havre. (Jefferson Papers. L. C.)
p. 130

294

Sweet Potato

(Jefferson to Nicholas Lewis.)
Paris Sept. 17. 1787.
… I cultivate in my garden here Indian corn for the use of my own table to eat green in our manner. but the species I am able to get here for seed, is hard with a thick skin, & dry. I had at Monticello a species of small white rare ripe corn which we call Homony-corn, and of which we used to make about 20 barrels a year for table use, green, in homony, & in bread. great George will know well what kind I mean. I wish it were possible for me to receive an ear of this in time for the next year. I think it too might be done if you would be so good as to find an opportunity of sending one to mr Madison at New York, and another to mr A. Donald at Richmond. more at your leisure I would ask you to send me also an ear or two of the drying corn from the Cherokee country, some best watermelon seeds, some fine canteloupe melon seeds, seeds of the common sweet potato (I mean the real seeds & not the roots, which cannot be brought here without rotting,) an hundred or two- acorns of the willow oak and about a peck of acorns of the ground oak or dwarf oak, of the kind that George gathered for me one year upon the barrens of buck island creek. as these will be of some bulk, I will ask the favor of you to send them to mr Donald of Richmond who will find a conveiance for them to Havre. (Jefferson Papers. L. C.)
p. 130

1788

Peas

Jefferson (in France) to James Madison.
Paris Feb. 6, 1788
[…]tion as quick as possible. the other box is addressed to you, & contains, cork acorns, Sulla, and peas, the two first articles to be forwarded to Monticello to Colo. Nicholas Lewis, taking thereout what proportion of them you please for yourself. the peas are brought me from the South of France and are said to be valuable. considering the season of the year I think it would be best to sow them at New York, and to send the produce on next winter to such persons as you please in Virginia, in order to try whether they are any of them better than what we already have. the Sulla is a species of S^t. foin which comes from Malta, and is proof against any degree of drought. I have raised it in my garden here, and find it a luxuriant & precious plant…
I will beg the favor of you to send me a copy of the American philosophical transactions, both the 1st & 2nd volumes, by the first packet … . (Jefferson Papers, L. C.)
p. 136
Letter begins on p. 135 but this section is on p. 136.

295

Corn

Jefferson (in France) to Nicholas Lewis
Paris, July 11, 1788
…I thank Mrs. Lewis kindly for the ears of corn & the seeds accompanying them which are safely come to hand. The homony corn is a precious present. The corn of the country and of Italy, as far as I have seen it, cannot be eaten either in the form of corn or of bread, by any person who has eaten that of America. I have planted some grains which may perhaps come to maturity as we have still 3 months & a half to frost…(Ford, Jefferson 5:417.)
pp. 137 & 138

[1]

Garden Book.

Joseph Prentis — Garden Book
Manuscript Collection of
Dr. Robert H. Webb
[Original, Alderman Library, University of Virginia]

March. 1784

Sowed Early Pease in th[e] Square neat Chimney. the 17th.

19. Sowed Rape Seed in same Square.

Glory of England, sowed same Day in Square nex[t] Street oposite.

19. Sowed Carrots in this Squ[are]

19. Transplanted Rose Bus[hes] and Raspbarries

19. Sowed Lettuce seed.

19. Planted Square; Beans

29. Sowed Parsley-

23d Mar. Sowed Carrott Seed. Rhadish — Cresses

[2]

April 1st

sowed Marrowfats

Planed [Oero?] -- Planted Flowering peas. -- sowed

Endive -- Set out Garlick & Onions. --

[3]

1786

April 2d Sowed Colliflower

-- Savoy Cabbage.

-- Celery Seed.

August 1st transplanted three rows of Colliflower Brocoli from Seed saved this Spring.

transplanted solid Celer.

3d August

Sowed two Rows of Six Weak Peas.

two Rows of Dwarf Marrow fats.

Sowed Lettuse Seed, on Border on left Hand under small

Pailing in the large Garden.

7th au.

Sowed four Rows Peas opposite to those sown 3d.

Sowed Lettuce under North Paling. E. Garden.

28 Sowed Lettuce on small Border under Yard Pales.

[4]

28 Planed out strawberrys, in both Gardens.

[5]

January 1787

Sowed Peas on the Border of the North Paling on the 17th day of Jany.

all rotted

19th Planted three rows of large Hotspur Beans in Est Garden.

Sowed Cabbage Seed on North Border -- in E. Garden

Feby 19 -- Sowed Lettuce & Cabbage from E. [Eastern] Shore on Border of White Pales in E. Garden

23d Sowed Peas on the North Border in the place where they were put the 17th Jany -- these are of the Six Week

[6]

February 1788

13th -- Sowed Peas on the Border of the E. Garden under the North paling in double rows.

15 -- Planed Mazagan Beans 7 first rows in first Square in E. Garden.

[1]

The Monthly Kalendar

[A garden record made by Joseph Prentis
in an account book for the years 1775-1779
From manuscript collection of Dr. Robert H. Webb]
Original: Alderman Library, University of Virginia

January.

In the begining of this, Month, if the Weather is open, sow Almans Hotspur Pease, Hotspur Beans or the long podded Bean;

In frosty Weather break the dead Wood, from your Raspberry Bushes, and get in Dung.

[2]

February

The first of this Month, sow Ormans Master Hotspy, Charltons Hotspur and Marrow fat Peas, and plant Windsor Beans.

Slip Currant, and Gooseberry Bushes, and set out the Slips

On the day that the Moon fulls, sow Onions and throw in Lettuce, and Rhadish with your Onions

In the Decrease of the Moon, sow Carrots Parsnips, Spinach, Parseley. Celery, Garden Cresses white Mustard, Cabbage and Coleworts.-- --In the Middle of this Month plant out Cabbages and Colwort. --- In the last week set out Slips of Box.

This is too early for Carrots they will many of them go to seed. -even if sowed in February. --about the 12 or 15 of March I think the best time for sowing Carrots and Parsnips.

[3]

March.

Sow all kinds of Peas and Beans, and all sorts of Seeds. -- plant Broad and French Beans, set out Cabbages, and Colworts, the Slips of Raspberries Currants, and Gooseberries, artichokes Thyme, Sage Baum, (Balm Winter Savory Hyssop, Featherfew Rue, Wormwood, Pot Marjoram, Mint, Tansey, Lavender. Burnett Scellendine [?], and Rosemary

after a Rain plant out Cucumber Seed.

Set out asparagus as follows.

Dig a trench as wide as you intend your Beds to be, and two feet deep, lay a layer of Oyster. Shells, six Inches, then lay on six Inches of Horse Dung, and as much Mould, continue so to do, till the Bed is done. Take your Roots raised from Seed, and set them out in Rows, a foot Wide let there be a space of about a foot between each Row. --

[4]

April.

The first of this Month sow., your last Crop of Peas; - plant French Beans; Spade up your artichoak Beds and Slip the Plants; leaving two of the Strongest in a Hill

Sow Cabbage, Lettuce Rhadish, White Mustard and Cresses Seeds.

Plant out your Cabbages.

Sow Colliflower Seed Celery, Cresses, Nasturtian Lettuce — Salsafy early in the Month.

[5]

May

Sow Colliflower, and Cabbage Seed Last of this Month sow Brocoli --- Celery --- Cucumbers for Pickles Endive: Featherfew --- Melons --- Peas --- Rhadishes twice --- Kidney Beans.

[6]

June

Plant Cucumbers and Broad Beans. --- or french Beans.

about the Middle of this Month sow Brocoli seed.

Sow Cabbages --- also Rhadishes twice --. transplant your Cabbages --- prick out Colliflowers, and Brocoli. --- Draw up all your Weeds by the Roots.

[7]

July

The first of this Month plant out Cabbages, and Celery; observing to ( sic ) Water to Ground if it is dry

About the Middle of this Month plant out Colliflowers 3 1/2 feet distances in very rich Ground. --- The last of this Month sow Carrots and Peas. -transplant your Brocoli to stand --- take up your Onions. Sow Turnep Seed plant Kidney Beans.

[8]

August

Sow Onion Seed, the first day of this Month with Rhadish and Lettuce. also Garden Cresses and White Mustard --Carrots may now be sown.

12th. August --- sow peas for the Fall --- about the same time sow Spinach Turneps Rhadishes

[9]

September.

The first of this Month sow Colliflower and Cabbage Seed, and also some Rhadish. --- after the full of the Moon, sow Spinage. The last of this Month, take your Colliflowers, and plant them on Beds, to stand till November. --- This will prevent their flowering

about the 10th sow your Colliflower Seed --- plant cuttings of Currants -- also of Gooseberrys --- plant layers of Raspberries plant out Strawberries dress your Strawberry Borders. -

[10]

October.

Dung your Ground, in order to plant Cabbages Set them out on Beds to prevent the Waters Standing. Dress your Borders. -

20th transplant your Colliflowers. --- Last of this Month cut down your Asparagus and cover the Beds well with Manure. -

[11]

November

In the begining of this Month lay up the Earth to your artichokes, and fill the Space between with Horse Dung, and Litter.

The first Week in this Month, plant out your Colliflowers as follows.

Prepare your Ground as for a Hot Bed, then dig a trench Spade Deep,, and two feet and a half Wide., make holes at convenient distances, set five Plants in each hole,, put your Glasses one raise them on the South Side, when it is warm; plant out three of these plants in the first week in March.

During this Month cut your asparagus close to the Ground,, cover the Beds, with Horse Dung, then throw the Earth, out of the Values over the Horse Dung. Fork them up in March., and fill the allies again from the Beds.

Plant every thing of the Tree or Shrub kind. --- Prune your Trees and Vines: --- Take up your Colliflowers, if flowered, and House them.

[12]

December

The first of this Month take up your Carrots, cut the tops off; and put them in a hole. — When the Frost has bit your Parsnips, dispose of them in the same Manner

If the Weather be open, about the 20th of this Month, sow Almans Hotspur Peas, when they come up, earth them up to the Tops, dont cover them.

Cover your Celery and every thing also that can be destroyed by the Frost.

[13]

Directions about Garden[in]g.

The last Week in September or the first in October, take up your Colliflowers, with as much Earth to the Root as you conveniently can.

Dig a trench eighteen Inches Wide and of a sufficient depth, put in Rotten Dung, then lay your Plants with their Heads to the Sun. cover them with Mould up to their Leaves. add to this a Coat of Saw Dust

When apprehensive of Frost, cover them with Straw.

[14]

Artichokes

Make a general Dressing of artichokes the first or about the Middle of March; by levelling the Earth from the Plants., but observe to let two or three of the strongest Shoots remain upon every Root, and Slip off the others. In doing this open the Earth deep enough to admit you to slip the Branches from the place where they arise, and closing and pressing the Earth close to the Stock. -- The Slips if wanted may be set out at this Time, and should be placed in an open Situation and in a rich Soil; and ought to be watered, to settle the Earth about the Plants. --These Slips will yield the following autumn. --- These Slips will also answer if put out in April. If you are desirous to have large artichokes, you must in Order to encourage the main Head., cut off, all the Suckers or small Heads that are produced from the sides of the Stems. -- When ever the artichoke is taken off the Stem which supported it ought also to be broken down close to the Earth, as they injure the growth of the Plant if suffered to remain.

about the first of November is the time to cut down the Leaves off the artichoke and earth up the Plants to secure them from severe Frosts. --- If at the time of Dressing your artichokes arty of the Strong Plants show Fruit, and you are desirous to save the fruit you must tie up the Leaves close, and then lay the Earth up over the Roots and close about the Leaves which will preserve the Fruit and bring it to perfection.

[15]

If not earthed up in Novr it may be done in Decr or even in Jany. If the Frost will not admit of earthing them they may be well covered with Straw. --- Before they are either earthed or covered with Straw, all the dead Leaves must be first well taken away.

Jerusalem artichokes must be planted in Rows two feet asunder and about fifteen Inches distance in the Rows.

[16]

Beans.

The first of February plant your Beans, if of the large kind let them be in rows of a Yard assunder and about six Inches distant in the Row. — They may be put in about the first or Middle of January if a favourable Season offers. Beans of any kind may also be planted about the first of March and they will succeed very well, or even between the first of April and the Middle of May.

The small Magazan Bean is to be preferred to any other kind that I have seen.

[17]

Brocoli

Brocoli seed both of the purple and white kind may be sown in May and it will be advisable to sow a little of this seed at two different times in May, some time between the first and fifteenth, and between the fifteenth and thirtieth. --- The Plants that are raised from the first sowing if the Winter is mild will afford Heads before Christmas, at least will head very early in the Spring. --- The second sowing is chiefly for Spring use, and will produce fine Heads in February and March and after the Heads are gone will yield abundance of fine Sprouts. ---

The Seed ought to be sown on a Border that is not fully exposed to the Sun. --- In June take out from the Beds the Plants, and put them in other Beds three or four Inches apart every Tray Water them and repeat it occasionally. Let them remain here about a Month and then plant them out where you wish them to stand for use. --- The second Week in June you may sow some more Seed, and these Plants will produce Heads in February and March. In July put out your full Crop of Brocoli, in Rows allowing three feet between the Rows and two feet from each other in a rich Soil, and water them if the Season is dry till they appear to have taken root.

[18]

Carrots

Some time in ~~February~~ March. abt 12th [ sic ] sow your Carrots, they grow best in a light Soil, and in an open Exposure, the Ground ought to be spaded very deep, and the Clods well broken, this Seed ought to be thinly sown and on a dry, calm Day.

The Seed may also be sown in March, or April and will answer very well, (this is the best time In May your Carrots should be properly encouraged by keeping them clear from Weeds and thinning them that they may grow at Top, and swell at Bottom. and in thinning they must be left at least Six Inches every Way. If the Plants are used at Table they may now be thinned only about four Inches every way. --- In July if you incline you may sow some Carrot Seed, which will afford you good young Carrots in the autumn In August you may also sow some, which will supply the Table in the Spring. ---

The last of Novr or first of Deep take up your Carrots, in a dry Mild Day and cut off the Tops, clean them from the Earth and carry them to some dry place, then lay a Bed of dry Sand on the floor about two or three Inches thick, place the roots upon the Sand close together laying their Heads outwards, Cover the roots with Sand, two Inches, and then lay on more roots, and then more Sand. --- after this cover them with Straw.

During the growth of your Parsnips and Carrots it will be proper to spade or loosen the Earth three or four times about their roots, which makes them considerably larger.

[19]

Colliflowers

These Seed may be sown in a Bed of rich Light Soil in a warm Situation in the natural Ground in the Middle of February. and planted out about the middle of april in a rich Spot, at the distance of two feet or thirty Inches every way. water them if the Season is dry. As Soon as the flower appears, it should be screened from the Sun and wet, which alters its colour, and to shelter it let three or four of the largest Leaves be taken of, to cover the flower. In dry weather they ought to be often watered If the Plants were not transplanted in april it may be done in May

In May you may sow the Seed, and the Plants from this Seed, will produce their flowers in abundance in October, and November. the seed ought not to be sown till the last of May. and the Bed must be shaded, and frequently watered if dry.

The Plants that were sown in May, about the last of June should be pricked out into another Bed in an open Situation at about three Inches apart, and give them a little Water to settle the Earth, about their roots. It will be proper to shade them from the Sun if a hot Season till they have taken root. They are to remain in this Bed for about a Month and then be planted out where they are to stand..and to be watered till they have taken root, and they will produce in October and November

For other observations on Colliflowers see forwd

[20]

Currants.

The last of February or first of March prune your Carrts by cutting away all ill growing Branches, and leave the Branches about Seven or eight Inches apart. They may be planted at this Time, and ought to be seven or eight feet apart. Currants are best raised by Cuttings for this purpose take such of the Shoots as are strong, and let them be from twelve to fifteen Inches long, plant them in rows not less than twelve inches apart and put each cutting about half way into the Ground. --

at this Time it will be also proper to loosen the Earth about the roots.

About the last of October you may prune your Currants, and dig the Earth about them. In these Trees, many young Shoots are produced every Summer some of which should be cut away, but care taken to leave the Strongest to supply the places of the old Branches, some of which should be cut away every Year to make, room for the young Bushes.

This is also a very proper Season to propagate which is best done by cuttings, in the mode before mentioned.

They may also be raised by Cuttings in December.

[21]

Celery.

About the middle of March sow Celery for the principal Crop. --the Seed should be put in a warm spot of rich Earth, cover it but very lightly --- as soon as the Plants are large enough draw out the largest and transplant them in a Bed three Inches apart and shade them till they have taken root, they are to remain here about a Month or five Weeks and then to be placed in their Trenches, and which ought to be done in June, in the following manner. --- Dig each Trench, seven or eight Inches deep laying the Earth that comes out equally on each side- then lay the thickness of two or three Inches of very rotten Dung in the Bottom of each Trench, when this is done, let the Bottom be neatly dug, burying the Dung equally about four Inches deep, then put in your Plants, in one row in the Middle of the trench at the distance of five Inches between each plant; if the Season is not very favourable they must be watered frequently --- about a Month or five Weeks they require to be earthed up, and which ought to be done in dry days, the earth must be finely broken and much Care taken, that it is placed gently and equally on both Sides and not drawn up so high, as to cover the Bud, this must be repeated every fortnight or thereabouts till the Celery is fit for Use.

For a full Crop of Celery for the Winter the same preparation must be made, chuse the strongest Plants, and trim the ends of their roots, and cut two or three Inches off the Tops of their heaves and plant them in July --- Before the Earth is drawn to the Celery it is of great service to have it well stirred three or four Times, and by no means to draw it to your Celery when wet. Celery my also be transplanted in August

[22]

The Celery ought to be earthed up within four or five Inches of the Top. and if the Tops are then covered from the severe Frosts it will still be of great Service.

[23]

Chamomile Flowers.

Plant Slips of Chamomile in a rich Bed at the distance of nine or ten Inches, when they bear the flowers ought to be gathered and dried for use.

[24]

Dressing Borders.

In February let your Beds and Borders be thoroughly cleaned from Weeds, and the surface of your flower Borders be lightly and carefully loosened with a hoe in a dry day, and neatly raked which gives a liveliness to the surface, is pleasing to the Eye and well worth the Labour.

[25]

Dung Your Ground.

Such of the Garden as may be vacant should be well manured in October and also well spaded that it may have the advantage of fallow from the Sun, Snow, and air of the Winter Season. -

In March loosen the Surface of the Borders which were planted with flowers of any Sort in the Fall, or Autumn, let this be done in a dry day with a small Hoe, Stirring the Earth very carefully between the Plants, taking Care of the Shoots from the Bulbous Roots which are now appearg thro' the Surface, then let them be neatly raked and clear away all Dead Leaves, which appear about the Plants. --By loosening the Surface of the Borders the first growth of seed Weeds is prevented and it greatly promotes the growth of the Flowers..

In December use every oppy of laying Dung on such parts of the Garden as may want it.

[26]

Gooseberrys.

Use the same Method in cultivating this Fruit as is recommended for Currants.

[27]

Gathering Seeds.

Gather Seeds of all Sorts as they ripen, let this be done in dry Weather and as soon as they are cut spread them in some dry place, where the air can freely come,, they ought to be turned frequently and after they are perfectly dry may be beaten out, and well cleaned from the Rubbish and Husks.

[28]

Onions

about the Middle or last of February you may prepare your Ground for Onions, let it be well manured and sow them then., and as equally as possible -- From this Time till the first of April they will succeed very well if sown. --

In May the Onions should be well cleared of Weeds and the Plants thinned leaving them three or four inches asunder ---- They may be transplanted and when growing it is of great Service to loosen the Earth about them.

Onions may also be sown about the Middle of July, or in August for the Winter, when they come ups they must be well attended to, or the Weeds will get the better of the Onions and destroy the whole Crop. --- When your forwardest Crop is fit to take up in the Fall and which is discovered by their Leaves beginning to wither, they must be managed in the following Manner

They must be taken up in dry Weather, and leave to each Onion four or five Inches of the Leaves they must then be placed in a dry place to harden exposed to the Sun., for a fortnight, and frequently turned. --- They ought to be afterwards placed in a dry and airy Room, but let them be first well cleaned from the Earth, and their outer Skins, and Spread, on the floor, the Windows of this appartment ought to be kept open in fair Weather for about a Week, and those that decay should not be suffered to remain with the others. --

about the 20th of Septr is a good time to sow your Onion Seed. Let them be kept very clean from Weeds, and transplanted early in the Spring.

[29]

Parsley

Sow some of this Seed about the last of January in Drills tolerably thick and cover it about a Quarter of an Inch deep It may be sown from this Time till April, and will thrive very well. --

[30]

Strawberries

Where new Plantations of this Fruit are desired about the last of June is the proper time to prepare for it. --- In chasing your Plants let them be taken from such Beds as bear well, and produce the largest Fruit --- Let the Plants be taken from the last Summers Growth very carefully up with the Roots. trim the Roots a little and cut off any Strings from the Head of the Plant, and let them be put immediately, into a Bed in a Shady Situation, and about three or four inches apart, and as soon as planted they must be watered to settle the Earth;

In this Situation they must remain till Septr or October, by which time they will be strong and in fine Order to transplan[t] where they are to remain and ought to be planted at least twelve Inches asunder. -- In February they should be well cleaned, and have their Spring Dressing. first pull off all the runners and clear the Bed from Weeds of every Sort, then loosen the Ground between the Plants, and add a little fresh Earth, between the Rows, and about each plant, which makes them flower Strong and produce large fruit --- The Beds ought to be kept free from Runners and Weeds as they advance, But where new Plantations are wanted it is best to let the runners remain. In dry Weather they ought to be frequently watered, especially if they are in Bloom, and if not well supplied with Water, you Will have but small Fruit; and a thin Crop. In October or Novr The Beds ought to be well cleaned and any vacancies may at this time be filled up with other Roots.

[31]

Raspberries

If your Raspberries have remained unpruned till February, they ought now to be pruned, and in doing this, observe to leave three of the Strongest last Years shoots, close together on each root to bear fruit, the next Summer and all above that number on every root must be cut away -- Clear away the dead Wood. — each Shoot that you leave, should be shortened by taking of, about one third of their length --- after they axe pruned you ought to dig about the root and clear away all straggling roots, and leave none but those that are to support the Branches you expect to bear: In February is a proper time to make new Plantations where they are wanted. If they axe not pruned and cleaned in February it may be done in the month of Larch, and they will bear transplanting very well, at this Time.

They may also be transplanted in October, or Novr and may be pruned at this Time. In chusing Plants take such as are well provided with roots, for this is very material in this Plant; and if there be one two or more Buds formed on the roots for the next Summers Shoots they are to be preferred Before they are placed in the Earth, shorten the roots a little, and let the Shoots be trimmed.

[32]

Spinach

Sow Spinach in February if the Weather is mild, and. it ought to be repeated every fortnight, until the middle or last of April. ---The first of July get your Ground ready for a Winters Crop, and sow it in Drills -- If not sown at this time, it may be sown in August, (or first of Septr best time) but ought to be placed in a Spot that is Dry. in the Winter when the Plants axe up and have leaves about an Inch broad, they must be thinned and cleared from Weeds, and should be left four or five Inches apart from each other, and which must be done some time in Septr as you find the Plant requires it. --- In gathering it for use take care to take the largest Leaves and leaving the inner ones to grow in their turn.

[33]

Parsneps.

The Same Directions that are recommended in the culture of Carrots will also suit this Plant.

[34]

Salsafy

The last of February this must be sown., and ought to be placed in a light Spott in an open Situation --- Sow the Seed then and let it be gently raked over. It may be sown in March also.

For your Winters Crop the Seed should now be sown, at this time the Seed sown in the Spring should be carefully thinned.. and the Plants set out about Six or Seven Inches apart.

[35]

Peas

In the first of January if the Weather is open on a Warm Exposure you may sow some Hot Spurr Peas, in Rows three feet and a half distant --- at this your first Crop of Marrowfats may also be sown but these had better be at the distance of four feet. When they come up draw a little Earth to their Stems in a mild day, but take Care that this Earth be pretty dry.

In February sow your principal Crop of Peas. Marrow Fats should be at least three feet and a half asunder - Hot Spur and those of a smaller kind three feet apart. Marrowfat Peas, may also be sown in March or any of the smaller sort. They may also be sown in April and will succeed very well. --- In May is the proper Season to sow any kind of Dwarf Peas, and when they come up they ought to be earthed up with tolerable dry Soil.

In June you may also sow some Peas, and altho they do not generally succeed very well, yet if the season proves tolerably moist there will be a great chance of reaping a tolerable Crop in Septr at which time they will be a rarity -- If the Weather be very dry, it will be proper to soak the Peas in Water for a few Hours. ---

The last of July Septr [ sic ] or first of October.. sow some Peas, for an early Crop

The earliest Hotspur is the proper sort to be sown at this Time, and a warm Border, under a Wall or fence is the proper Situation

If no Peas were sown in October, it will be proper to sow some the first of November, and those that are sown at this Time have the best chance to Succeed. When the Weather is open in Deer let a warm Spot be got ready for Peas, and sow the early Hotspur, let them be covered an Inch and a half with Earth.

[36]

Colliflowers

Must be sown critically to a day, or it is said there can be no Dependg on them -- For the Fall you must sow your Seed on the 12th day of April and transplant them into Beds to stop their growth. in July place them where they are intended to grow as they grow they ought to be hilled up otherwise, when they head, the wind will injure them, they grow best in a rich light Soil; the best way of managing them here is as follows. --- Dig Trenches a foot and a half wide quite down to the Clay mix with the Clay with your Spade some long Dung into which place your Plants about five feet apart when they are large enough to be transplanted, and as they grow hill them up with the best Mould you can get this method answered the purpose of transplanting for the Clay suppressed their growth, and the warmth of the Dung afforded them heat enough to vegetate. --If the Flie is apt to destroy your plants it is a good way when you sow the Seed to sow Spinach or Rhadish so as not interfere with the Plants. --- these Things being more agreeable food to the Insects will frequently save your Plants. --

In November when the intense Frosts approach take your Colliflower up by the roots with as much Mould as you can and place them in a hole dug in the ground, about two feet below the Surface well sheltered by Straw, near one another, and cut them as you please, they may be kept in this Way the greatest part of the Winter. --

[37]

Lettuce.

May be sown from February to October, the last crop to be sown about the first of August, and in October transplanted into a rich Border sheltered from the Weather. --- It is a hardy Plant and will stand most of our Winters if covered only with Pea Vines, Asparagus Haulm, Matts or Straw. —

210-211

Angelica … artichokes … asparagus … balm … basil … beans (over forty names] . . beets (red, scarlet, white) … broccoli … cabbage [over thirty names] … caper … capsicum … carrots (earl. large, orange, yellow) … cauliflower (Dutch, English) … celery (red. solid) … chickpeas … chicory . . chives … cole … colewort … collards … corn (fifteen sorts, including "guinea;" which is sorghum. introduced with the slaves] … corn salad … cress (English, garden. Italian, mountain, upland) … cucumber (early, forward, frame, green serpentine) … cymling (soft, warted). [This is cucurbila verrucosa, says Jefferson. It tastes like chicory roots.] … eggplant … endive (broad: leaved, smooth, winter, wild or succory) … Jerusalem artichoke . .gherkin … gourd (long, orange) … horse radish… hyssop … kale (or borecole] … lavender … leeks … lentils … lettuce [fifteen names, including Dutch brown, cos, cabbage, ice and tennis-ball] …maize [name used in writing to foreigners; Indian corn at home) … mangel-wurzel … melons (cantaloupe, citron, musk, Persian, pineapple, greets Venice, water) … mint … mustard (white, red) . . nasturtium okra … onions (hanging, Madeira, Spanish, white). [Perhaps "hanging" refers to the allium, called "rocambole," with bulbets at the top of the stalks. a sort of perennial onion.] … orach … oyster plant … parsley … pease (over fifty different names with many overlays like chick and Garavance. Dutch Admiral and Marrowfat, Pearl and Nonesuch, as well as the familiar names) … peendars [peanuts]. [Jefferson tried a small crop in the garden.) … pepper, cayenne … Pepper grass [Lepidium sativum] … pimpernell [Salvashella in Italian, so we know who gave it to Jefferson.] … potatoes (Indian, Irish, long, round, seed and sweet) … potato pumpkin … pumpkin … pumpion [Pumpion or pompion was the early name for pumpkins.) … white pumpkins [called "Zucche blanche"--our zucchini squash?] … radish (black, common, English scarlet, salmon, scarlet, summer, violet, white) … rape … rhubarb, esculent (Jefferson means not the medicinal kind.) … rosemary … rue … sage … salsify … savory . . scallion … scarcity root (See also mangel-wurzel.] … sea kale (See cole and kale.] … shallots … sorrel … spinach (smooth, summer, winter) … succory … tansey …. tarragon … thyme … tomatoes (after 1809] … turnip (early, early Dutch, English forward, Frasers new, Hanover, long French, lopped, rose, summer, Swedish)

While listing even the most banal names may seem tedious, remember the old lady who objected to omitting any of the verses when singing hymns, since, if the poor man took the trouble to write them, the least we can do is sing them. The value of Jefferson's lists is that they indicate the wide range of his tastes, the willingness to grow anything that might prove of benefit to his fellows and the patience of his meticulous recordings. And it gives us the full scope of the American eighteenth-century vegetable garden.

Two garden calendars compared will sum up the accounts of vegetable-growing in the eighteenth century along the Atlantic seaboard. The one by "A Citizen of Virginia" is from the publication of our friend Randolph, who rather confusingly includes the part of the month - "latter end;" "middle" and so on — with the vegetables. The other, from Carolina, is what has long been reputed to be the "first horticultural book published in America;" written by Martha Logan of Charleston, South Carolina, friend to John Bartram. It has been referred to so often and so proudly that its size, if not its importance, has become greatly overestimated. Perhaps the fact that it was "Done by a lady" has made it burgeon in the minds of horticultural historians. One can wonder if any of them ever really saw it, for at the end of a long search, the only copy I have found turns out to fill both sides of two PAM in Tobler's South Carolina Almanack of 1756. In the files in, the New York Public Library it is described as the "earliest American treatice on the subject known to be extant."

Quite apart from her calendar, Martha Logan was a remarkable woman and deserves our admiration for her contributions to the eighteenth-century gardening world. Daughter of a proprietary governor of South Carolina, Robert Daniel, she was born in 1702 and had along life of managing a plantation about ten miles from Charleston while boarding and teaching children in her home, selling garden seeds and plants and making a name for herself among American gardeners. We have teen her sending seeds to John Bartram, and filling Collinson with wistful envy. Her only published work, curiously enough, is entirely for the kitchen garden, although we know she excelled in the cultivation of all sorts of flowers.

VIRGINIA	SOUTH CAROLINA
From a treatice on gardening by a Citizen of Virginia	Directions for Managing a Kitchen Garden every month of the year Done by a Lady
January	January
Prepare hot-beds for Cucumbers: as little a can be done this month in a garden; I would advise the preparing of your dung; and carrying it to your beds, that it may be ready to spread on in February.	Plant peas and Beans: Sow Spinage for Use and for Seed: that which is preserved for Seed must never be cut: a small Quantity will yield plentifully in rich ground. Sow Cabbage for Summer Use, when they are fit transplant them into rich Earth. Sow Parsley. Transplant Artichokes into very rich mellow Ground and they will bear in the Fall. This month all kinds of Fruit-Trees may be Transplanted.

February	February
Sow Asparagus, make your beds and fork up the old ones, sow Leaf Cabbages: latter end transplant Cauliflowers, sow Carrots, and transplant for seed; prick out endive for seed, sow Lettuce, Melons in hot-beds, sow Parsnips, take up the old roots and prick out for seed, sow Peas and prick them into your hot-beds, sow Radishes twice, plant Strawberries, plant out Turneps for seed, spade deep and make it fine, plant Beans.	Sow Celery, Cucumbers, Melons, Kidney-Beans, Spinage, Asparagus, Radish. Parsley, Lettice, to be transplanted in shady Places: they must be moved young and watered every Morning: Pond or Rain Water is the best. If the season does not prove too wet, this Month is best for planting all Sorts of Trees, except the Fig, which should not be moved 'til March, when the suckers may be taken from the Roots of old Trees. The Fig will not bear pruning. The middle of this Month is the best for Grafting in the Cleft. If Fruit-Trees have not been pruned last Month, they must not be delayed longer. About the Middle of this Month, sow Spinage, Radish, Parsley and Lettice for the last time. Plant Dwarf and Hotspur Pease. Sow Onions, Carrots and Parsnips; and plant out Carrots, Parsnips, Cabbage and Onions, for Seed the next Year. Plant Hops, Strawberries, and all kinds of aromatic Herbs
March	March
Slip your Artichokes, if fit, plant Kidney Beans, Cabbages, Celery, Parsley, Cucumbers, Currants, Chamomile, Celandine, Nasturtium, Featherfew, Fennel, Ivy, Horse Radish, Hyssop, Lavender, Lettuce, Radishes twice, Marjoram, Marsh Mallow, Mint, Melons, Millet, Mugwort, Onions, and for seed, Peas twice, Potatoes, Raspberry, Rosemary, Rue, Spinach, Tansy, Thyme, Turneps. You may begin to mow your grass walks, and continue so to do every morning, and roll them; turf this month; plant Box.	Whatever was neglected last Month, may be done in this, with good Sue. cess, if it is not too dry; if it be, you must water more frequently. Now plant Rounceval Pease and all manner of Kidney Beans.
April	April
If Artichokes were not slipped last month, do it this, plant bushel and garden Beans, sow Cabbages the twelfth, sow Cauliflowers, Celery, Cresses, Nasturtium, Lettuce, Pease, Radishes twice, Sage will grow in this or any other month; Turneps, sow Salsify early Pepper; turf this month.	Continue to plant aromatic Herbs Rosemary, Thyme, Lavender etc. and be careful to weed and water what was formerly planted. Lettice, Spinage and all kinds of Salading may be planted to use all the Summer but they must be frequently watered and shaded from the Sun.
May	May
Latter end sow Brocoli, Celery, Cucumbers for pickles, Endive, Featherfew, Hysop, cuttings of Marsh Mallow, Melons, Peas, sow Radishes twice, Kidney Beans, turf this month.	This month is chiefly for weeding and watering: Nothing sown or planted does well.
June	June
Cabbages should be sown, sow Radishes twice, transplant Cabbages, prick out Cauliflowers, prick out Brocoli, draw up by roots all your weeds.	Clip Evergreens, and Herbs for drying, Thyme, Sage, Carduus, Rosemary, Lavender, etc. Sow Carrots, Parsnips and Cabbage. If the Weather is dry and hot the Ground must be well watered, after being dug deep and made mellow. Straw or Stable Litter well wetted and laid pretty thick upon the Beds where Seeds are sown, in the Heat of the Day, and taken off at Night is a good expedient to forward the Growth.
July	July
Transplant Brocoli, sow Cabbages, Coleworts, transplant Cauliflowers to stand. Endive, gather Millet seed, take Onions, sow Radishes twice, sow Turneps, Plant Kidney-Beans to preserve.	What was done last Month may also be done this. Continue to water, in the evening only. The latter end of this Month sow Pease for the Fall. Water such things as are going to seed, is being very needful to preserve good Seed. Turnips and Onions may be sown; Leeks, scallions and all of this Tribe planted.
August	August
Sow Cabbages, latter end, Carrots, get your Cucumber seed, sow Cresses, prick out Endive, early sow Lettice, Mullein, gather Onion seed, plant Garlick, get Parsnep seed; twelfth, sow Peas for the fall, sow Radishes; middle, sow Spinach, though some say not until after the twentieth, sow Turneps.	Sow Turneps and another crop of Hotspur or Dwarf Pease. Still Continue to weed and water as before.
September	September
Sow Cabbages tench, sow Cauliflowers, plant cuttings of Currants, Clary, Comfrey, plant cuttings of Gooseberries, sow Radishes, plant layers of suckers of Raspberries Rosemary, plant out Strawberries string your Strawberries, and dress your beds, plant Tansy.	Showers of Rain will be frequent. Now prepare the ground for the following Seeds viz. Spinage, Dutch brown Lettice, Endive, and other crop of Pease and Beans. Now you may inoculate with Buds.

apples	figs
blackberries	grapes	raspberries
cherries	melons:	cantaloupes, watermelons	rhubarb
	peaches	strawberries

No. 3.	Carrots
6.	Spinach.
10.	Curled Parsley.
11.	Peas.
20.	Rape.
32.	Savoys
73.	Coleworts
75.	Broccoli
40.	Ice Lettuce

No. 3	carrots.
6.	Spinach.
10.	curled Parsley.
11.	Peas.
20.	Rape.
32.	Savoys
73.	Coleworts
75.	Broccoli
40.	Ice Lettuce

No. 67.	white beet
68.	Red beet from England
69.	Scarlet Radishes. Tuckelise.

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